Suspension Upgrade ( shocks, struts,springs)
front steer /drive cars need a good width to stretch the side wall on a wide tire a bit to aid in turn-in. The larger 245 tire changes the contact patch and helps get the power down, a FWD car generally is tire limited for traction. For the street it is not the best, a 235 tire on a 9.0 inch rim is a lot less trouble.
and no one else had it.
and no one else had it.
Can someone post a picture of their car with the YYZ V2 springs? I've been debating on what suspension setup to swap to. I have a set of CM springs but I only bought them because I got a REALLY good deal on them, new.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/susp...ctures-291035/
Road runner did a good job on this. You can expect springs to settle particularly if the isolators are not seated, but we did make a change to v.2 to make it easier to get the rear isolators on. And springs will normalize initially but its not more than a 1/4 inch. YYZ are guaranteed not to break or lose rate. 100% of the other aftermarket springs lose rate and also sag over time.
What's the rates of ss/sc struts and shocks vs ss/tc anyone know?
And will LNF mounts work on ss/sc without any modifying?
And will LNF mounts work on ss/sc without any modifying?
And will LNF mounts work on ss/sc without any modifying?
And will LNF mounts work on ss/sc without any modifying?
Last edited by Hobbitjones; Feb 19, 2013 at 05:16 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
google dat s**t
We make three type of rotated mounts:
• aluminum 4130 machined with A class voided bushing all LNF 2008-2010 /LSJ 2005/2007 includes Cobalt and Ion Redline except 2004
• steel dom machined and welded with A class voided bushing all LNF/LSJ and similar construction with different pick up points for 2004 Ion Redline
• composite pressed and inserted with A class voided bushing all F23 trans Cobalt/Ion 2005-2010
All these mounts are designed to lift the motor at the rear, lower the position of the motor at the front, and allow the torque axis upper mounts to reposition. There are two stages: stage 1 is a replacement front mount and a keyhole rear mount insert to space the stock mount upwards. Stage 1 is recommended for almost all use.
Stage 2 includes everything in stage 1 save that the keyhole spacer is not needed, as the rise is built into the mount.
1. M35 rotated mounts and F23 rotated mounts.
Sometimes I have gotten feedback that folks have installed rotated mounts and have vibrations. That really should not happen, although the mounts will not have the same isolation as stock, the inserts are stiffer and there is no real way around that.
The reason behind the mounts is to stop power hop, caused in part by too much angle in the cv joint. The manual shift cars are not positioned in line axle out put to knuckle center line. To fix this, the mounts rotate the motor up at the back, down at the front, to move the axle out put shafts in better alignment with the axle output flange at the knuckle. The rotation was developed and engineered with help from GM, when I was under contract to produce Cobalt road race cars in 2004/2005.
So you know, some vendors (OTT and TTR) copied my mounts.
That said, I will be happy to help and advise both my customers and non customers, who have issues with mount installation, as best I can. My mounts are genuine Powell hardcore race parts.
I also know a lot more about these mounts than most folks do. Its easy, I drive the delta platform and work on the platform every day servicing customer cars, and working on race cars and my own car.
Please understand that the rotated mount concept exploits the soft driver side torque axis mount, without repositioning it, but the best installs reposition both the drivers and the passenger side mount as the shoulder bolts that secure these mounts have large holes in the mount that permits relocation.
Also note that the automatic transmission Delta's do not need this type of rotation, the car was designed for the automatic, and the manual transmissions happen to be about 15 mm out of alignment by comparison. I have been working for over a year on a firmer automatic trans mount system; no need to rotate them, but may need to raise the motor for extreme slammed lowering spring set ups. Not done yet.
Hope this helps Hobbit.
We make three type of rotated mounts:
• aluminum 4130 machined with A class voided bushing all LNF 2008-2010 /LSJ 2005/2007 includes Cobalt and Ion Redline except 2004
• steel dom machined and welded with A class voided bushing all LNF/LSJ and similar construction with different pick up points for 2004 Ion Redline
• composite pressed and inserted with A class voided bushing all F23 trans Cobalt/Ion 2005-2010
All these mounts are designed to lift the motor at the rear, lower the position of the motor at the front, and allow the torque axis upper mounts to reposition. There are two stages: stage 1 is a replacement front mount and a keyhole rear mount insert to space the stock mount upwards. Stage 1 is recommended for almost all use.
Stage 2 includes everything in stage 1 save that the keyhole spacer is not needed, as the rise is built into the mount.
1. M35 rotated mounts and F23 rotated mounts.
Sometimes I have gotten feedback that folks have installed rotated mounts and have vibrations. That really should not happen, although the mounts will not have the same isolation as stock, the inserts are stiffer and there is no real way around that.
The reason behind the mounts is to stop power hop, caused in part by too much angle in the cv joint. The manual shift cars are not positioned in line axle out put to knuckle center line. To fix this, the mounts rotate the motor up at the back, down at the front, to move the axle out put shafts in better alignment with the axle output flange at the knuckle. The rotation was developed and engineered with help from GM, when I was under contract to produce Cobalt road race cars in 2004/2005.
So you know, some vendors (OTT and TTR) copied my mounts.
That said, I will be happy to help and advise both my customers and non customers, who have issues with mount installation, as best I can. My mounts are genuine Powell hardcore race parts.
I also know a lot more about these mounts than most folks do. Its easy, I drive the delta platform and work on the platform every day servicing customer cars, and working on race cars and my own car.
Please understand that the rotated mount concept exploits the soft driver side torque axis mount, without repositioning it, but the best installs reposition both the drivers and the passenger side mount as the shoulder bolts that secure these mounts have large holes in the mount that permits relocation.
Also note that the automatic transmission Delta's do not need this type of rotation, the car was designed for the automatic, and the manual transmissions happen to be about 15 mm out of alignment by comparison. I have been working for over a year on a firmer automatic trans mount system; no need to rotate them, but may need to raise the motor for extreme slammed lowering spring set ups. Not done yet.
Hope this helps Hobbit.
Joined: 12-23-09
Posts: 12,643
Likes: 7
From: Mt. Pleasant S.C.
I'm running stage 1 on John's recommendation. I drag race mine frequently and this year I've added some autocross into the repertoire. I've also drive it Seattle to Boston to Florida. After almost 25 thousand miles I can't see any reason to go with anything else.
I have stage 2 on my DD no problems. I stopped being conservative with the car years ago. Unfortunately though I did buy the ottps which have a timer on them, ill eventually need the Powells
I just picked up the Powell rearward CAB and forward CABs plus I have all new FE5 Struts with YYZ springs along with Moog sway bar links. 91K on a 05/SC sounds about right to be doing the upgraded suspension since its clunking like crazy now (most like sway bar links or cabs).
stage 1 takes care of most of it for sure. I dont believe you need stage 2, stage 1 kills hop. You may still get some "tramp", not hop, in the wet or with some brands of tires in some rare surface conditions which may well be tire pressure dependent. But that frugly trans killing power hop will be gone.
I just picked up the Powell rearward CAB and forward CABs plus I have all new FE5 Struts with YYZ springs along with Moog sway bar links. 91K on a 05/SC sounds about right to be doing the upgraded suspension since its clunking like crazy now (most like sway bar links or cabs).
New Member
Joined: 11-25-19
Posts: 84
Likes: 6
From: El Paso
thanks in advance