I planned on running drag radials while auto x. I take it this is a bad idea? Lol

 

I have a similar setup to waht you are looking for.

Koni Yellow's front and rear
YYZ V2's
Hardcore Rear bar
FE5 Endlinks.

i dont have the undercar rails, but it has been a huge difference on the street. cant wait to track the car this year!

 

I have

FE5 all arround brand new
Sportlines
Need - Swaybar.

I don't Auto X and I wanted more drop so I went with the Sportlines. But, I do like to have less body roll so the swaybar will be nice. Unfortunatly it's way down on the list of stuff to buy haha.

 

This is true John, autox or not. Hit a curb you'll break something.

No side bite, a sidewall that rolls, and messed up rake. Great if you find an autox with no turns.

edit - nevermind read it again. You don't autox.

 

Even still, looking at the rear suspension on sportlines always makes me laugh. Barely any room for the suspension to travel at all.

 

I'm sure it's not a very comfortable ride.

 

 

lmao. What size tires are you guys with yyz v2 running? and scratch those radials then lol

 

Continental Extreme Contact DW 235/40/18. Wish they had more forward bite. I only made 18 autocross laps on them, the only 18 I have ever made, so realize that I'm as novice as novice can get, but I never ran out of side bite with them. They easily out handled the driver. Once I gain experience that may not continue to be true, but that'll be a long time coming. They are really inexpensive too.

Ratings, reviews and specifications for Continental ExtremeContact DW tires

 

Another note on the knuckles hobbit I swapped my stockers for the LNF knuckles and its still the mod I enjoy the most. The steering is much faster its just more enjoyable to drive. I also put the quaife on in the same operation, autocross was pointless without that

 

Great information in this thread!


John, I know your v1 would allow for better traction during launch because of less squat. How is the v2 compared to v1 in this category? I know you said there is less rake, so does this mean you get a little better launch on v1 vs v2??

 

the dynamic of the spring v.1 to v.2 is similar with similar solid load, so you can enjoy less squat either version you chose..... BUT the static ride height is higher at the rear, so theoretically v.1 would be better for 1320 launch BUT in reality you need to test to find out. I dont know if chaining the front down is needed, but again testing would reveal that. Few people do meaningful testing with data acquistion support.

 

I've noticed that with the Pedders the ass squatted on launch and the front seemed to remain at the same height. With the YYZ V2 I don't notice the ass squatting so much as the front climbing. Mind you, that's seat of the pants and steering wheel in hands talking, nothing more.

I haven't get my car to the drag strip yet with the YYZ to compare lap times. I had a few more things that I wanted to get done before I start my season, but perhaps next weekend I will go with the car as is, to compare apples to apples.

 

What do the LNF knuckles run price wise? Didn't even think about them being better lol.... Direct swap I assume? And that was done same time you added an LSD? Lol. Man wish I could do that too haha. Eventually maybe though. Make a huge difference? My main issue is wheel hop compared to tire spin lol

 

Not a direct swap you need LNF axles and hubs. I got eBay salvaged knuckles and hubs already together for $150ish and gmpartsdirect will charge you about $300 for both axles. Quaife install is the hard part...

 

running LNF parts on an LSJ like that , sacrifices ABS. That is only a big deal if you drive fast, or in poor weather and need to stop quickly.

The abs function disabled puts a lot more rear brake bias into an LSJ and that can bite you big time.

Other than that? Not so bad.

 

how do the LNF knuckles create a better steering response?

 

Thank you John I forgot to mention that. My ABS light has been on since July '11. He can fix that for you tho hobbit. The knucks quicken steering because the steering arm is shorter. 14.8:1 vs 16.5:1 ratios so much faster. This has a negative effect on torque steer feel however, since the steering arm is a shorter lever the same amount of torque steer feels like its more apparent. They also raise the front roll center, its a great mod and I love that Chevy made this for the little cobalt.

John, make a hi per strut for deltas. You can garnish my wages once you do

 

we looked at the hiper strut it was supposed to go on the TC GM cancelled it for cost.

its not worth the effort. the gains are not there...
all you need is to get your abs back, but that takes a machined pontiac grand am wheel bearing. The good news is, you can put the bearing on as is, and bore out your rotors. Oh then the stock wheels dont fit the bore is too small. So machine the hub center down on the bearing. Oh ya, and they are both 5 x 114.3 and 5 x 110 . BUT bonus! With 5 x 114.3, so you could go to 9.5 wide wheels like me.

you know you want to.

 

I know you're a big proponent of the 9.5 inchers but why is that?

 

Those tires look sick ^

 

Hey John if you don't mind me asking what is the cost like to change to LNF knuckles assuming we take the grand am hub route I like the idea of the 9.5 inch tires lol

If you would rather pm or email me lol

 

Buy the knuckle and the axles.
buy a grand am wheel bearing. front. If going to 5 x 114.3 just machine the center hub to the 65 mm or so , as the LSJ/LNF bearings have. It will be thin. You will need to space the wheel bearing out to maintain rotor/caliper alignment. You may need to machine the bearing attachment holes in the knuckle I dont have my notes handy.
Re drill a stock rear hub to 5.x 114.3; install.
install new wheels and carry on.

machining? 100-300 dollars. Depends how busy and how good the machinist is... things to look out for? hurting the abs sensor wires while machining, making the wrong size holes for stud installation etc....
parts? whatever they cost, new or used.

I gotta few knuckles here 65.00 each. new LNF. So does Mongorat.
LNF axles are a lot of money. I dont use LNF axles, I use a different ,small diameter axle shaft, costs 2000 for 6 shafts to be made from a very strong material used in race axle shafts for Corvette. Uses stock inner tripod joint and a grand am outer CV jont. LNF werent invented when we did this for all the Cobalt race cars we built in 04/05.

 

front steer /drive cars need a good width to stretch the side wall on a wide tire a bit to aid in turn-in. The larger 245 tire changes the contact patch and helps get the power down, a FWD car generally is tire limited for traction. For the street it is not the best, a 235 tire on a 9.0 inch rim is a lot less trouble.

and no one else had it.

 

already answered; shorter steering arm