I might this summer for vacation.

 

Sweet. Let me know a couple weeks in advance and I'll try to get some more people to show. Nothing like Cobalt fury on the track.

 

so what gains have you seen so far? what temp are you running at? i was just thinkin about getting a intercooler core and tigging it up. thats all those HE are. but let me know the temps and pro's of the cobra HE.

 

so i just run a long wire from one relay spot to the inside of my car and back to the other relay spot to turn the IC pump on/off at will right? same for the fan switch? i just ordered a HE and wouldn't mind getting this done wednesday

 

I don't think the wiring would be a good idea. Talk to someone with HP Tuners and have them adjust the fan and pump operations inside the computer. It works great.

 

You can easily jump start the coolant pump by removing the intercooler relay and tapping it with a wire. If you have HP Tuners, its even easier. Install is a breeze more or less. The engineering for the plumbing is just about the hardest part of the install.

 

could you weld the brackets to the HE or would you damage it?

 

You would have to make sure that the brackets were made of the same type of aluminum to prevent corrosion. Even then there is still a chance of ruining the HE with a bad weld. Honestly I wouldn't bother.

I'm gonna make some new brackets and post how to make them on here as an alternative to using flimsy zip ties, that I was oppossed to from the begining.

 

eh, zip ties will do me just fine lol. why do you oppose to hooking up a switch in the car to run the IC pump. I dont have HP Tuners, nor do i live remotely close to anyone that does.

i was going to put that switch in and hook up a switch for the fans as well.

 

If you follow WOT's diagrams and advice it should work fine with a swith. HP Tuners would be the best way to do it if you could.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums//showthread.php?t=23151

 

where does one pick up a heat exchange for so cheap. All the ones i have found are 200+

 

did this mod today...... HOLY **** there is no room to work with..... the cobra HE touches the front bumper and the hose for the IC is less than 1/4 inch from the radiator....... but its a pretty easy mod to do.... we didnt use the bucket of coolant. we just kept filling the tiny ass resevior whenever it got low. drove it around the block. filled it. did that about3-4 times with sometimes just letting it sit running and filling it when it got low. this probably was a lot more time consuming than the way they did it. but i didnt have a tub to fill with coolant.

 

I found them for fairly cheap over at the SVT Forums. Browse thier clasifieds for a while and you will find a few for under $100.

Yeah that's one to do it. Actually that's prett much what Blown 4-banger did after he did the dual pass. It takes a while to get all the air bubbles out, but it works. Keep on eye on your IAT2 to make sure you don't get any spikes in temp. If you do, you still have some air in the system.

 

ya im gonna keep watching it. gonna check it everytime i get out of the car for the next few days. the hardest part was trying to put pilot holes for the brakets. we said screw it and just used the self tapping screws to the metal without pilot holes and it worked better.

 

That's what I did. Got one from a Kenne Bell upgraded kit for $100 shipped. Brand new! It's basically a stock cobra HE with brackets welded on from the factory. Made my life that much easier.

 

there are like 4 or 5 on ebay right now all going for under 150

 

Ya'll missed out on a deal on here yesterday actually. Dude from our site just sold me his for 130 shipped. Looked in pretty damn good shape too, guess we'll see in a week or two. He was kinda new so I hope I didn't get screwed. Ahh well, only one way to know.

Can't wait to install it too, won't even be able to see it though, got the lower grill so it'll still be stealthy. The HE's lowering our IAT's around 10 degress right?? Nice write-up by the way

 

got mine for 80 shipped..... i thought it was lowering the IAT2 about 20-30?

 

Damn you chipmonk..lol..Ok, so I paid a lil more. 20-30 degrees huh?? That's awesome to hear. Gonna need all the help I can get come this summer.

 

If you look on the SVT forums you can find them from $70-$120. Just don't make a screen name that has Cobalt in the title like I did. They tend to ignore every one of my posts. There are a few cool people on there though.

 

Yeah I bought mine from SVT Forums for 60 bucks. Best way to go.

 

Alright. Here is the update on my new bracket design. I didn't like just using zip ties to support the HE in the brackets, so I took it upon myself to improve the design.

Parts:
2- Simpson PA23 brackets. (Home Depot in the lumber department) - $2.58 ea.
6- Self drilling #10 x 3/4" hex head sheet metal screws - $0.20 ea.
4- Philips Pan head #10-32 x 1/2" machine screws - $0.10 ea.
4- #10-32 nylon locking nuts - $0.10 ea.
2- Napa Unicoil radiator hose benders (part number 9982) - $7.99 ea.
8' of 3/4" heater house
1- Package of 1/4" thick x 3/4" wide 100% rubber self-adhesive weather stripping. (Ace Hardware #51276) - $6.99

Tools:
Pretty much the same as Blown 4-banger.

What to do:
Here is the new starting point.


Stand the HE in the new brackets and mark off the top. From the marked line, measure 4" above and cut. Keep the extra material because it will be used to make additional pieces and help guide bends.


Now mount in a vise with the pre-bent part on top and pointing away from you. The vise I used was not tall enough to accomodate the 4" part, so I placed the extra material in the vise also to guide my bend. Take extra material from the second bracket and clamp it about a 1/4" above the line on the inside of the bend. This will be used to guide the bend and make it tight and consistant.
(Notice I screwed up in the picture. I mounted the extra piece on the outside which resulted in an un even bend and made it more difficult.)


Now pull the bracket towards you until you make a 90° bend.


Using a 3/16" drill bit, open the 3 holes that are on the top and furthest from the bend. This will make installing on the car significantly easier.

Repeat for the second bracket and voila!


Side Supports.
Take the extra material and mark off 1" and 3/4" (1-3/4") and place the the other piece of extra material just inside the line. Mark the other edge of the material and measure and additional 1-3/4" and make another mark.


Cut off at the last mark. This is your new side support. Clamp the extra material to the side support in between the marks. Place the side support in the vise like you did for the main support brackets. The Vise jaws should be about a 1/4" below the extra material.


Bend 90° then remove it from the vise. Do not remove the clamped extra material! Place the other side in the vise and repeat. Here is your result.


Repeat for the second side support.

Bracket Assembly
Clamp the side support to the the main bracket just above the bubble and drill two(2) 3/16" holes through both. Place the #10-32 x 1/2" machine screws through the holes so head of the screw is inside the bracket. Screw the locking nuts on to the screws and tighten.


I applied high density 100% rubber self-adhesive weather stripping to the brackets for vibration control. I wiped the brackets down with a paper towel and Acetone first to remove any dirt and oil first.

Repeat for the other bracket. Notice that you most likely will have to cut a notch in one of the side supports to clear way for the nipple sticking out of the HE.

Installation
The rest is pretty much the same. Including using zip ties to hold the brackets onto the HE (this is only to hold the brackets on until the HE is mounted in the car) The only difference is using the Unicoils instead of the copper fittings. They are both viable solutions if you cannot get the hoses pre-bent. Pre-bent hoses are far superior to all other techniques, but if you can't get them, do what you can. Becareful not to pinch the hose shut. Even with the coils the hose pinches a little.


Here are the results:




Before


After

 

Geez George, why didn't you just CNC machine the brackets
LOL Nice job on the brackets, A little too much work for my taste (looks<function), but still nice. Jason, the car looks sick, don't get cocky I'd still rape you if we raced

 

^^ any time you wanna go bro hahaha lemmie know!!!! PUNK ASS!

OH and by the way cam, what time you wanna meet up at the Pavs?

and thanks for the help george! I owe you a HUUUUUUUGE thanks man!

 

i need a little help - do i need to take the alternator off to remove intake manifold - there is a wiring harness under the intake manifold - does that have to be moved out of the way - i have all the bolts out of the manifold and can seperate the top of the intake from the head but it is still bound up - are there align pins in the manifold similar to the charger - i just don't need to break anything - i will be building my own version of the twin pass end plate - i will be heliarcing a coupler to the end plate much like the gm part and will grind the inside of plate once welded so that return water will be less constricted - has anyone tried using a chemical coolant (something similar to water wetter) to reduce ambient temps - by the way i just ordered a water/methanol system to reduce charge termps - hope it works