For the methanol injection
I have a stage 1 devil's own kit

Which hose do you tap off of to get the boost reading to the pressure switch??

The one i'm using isn't working right.. and if it is.. my pressure switch isn't reading the boost.

 

Bump!

 

line running to the intake manifold

lemme see if i have a pic

 

from solenoid.. to the t where it runs to the intake manifold and the red highlighted line runs to the switch

 

hmmnn
looks like i have the incorrect line tapped...

as you can see in the following picture in the BACKGROUND you can see the T stick up. it's out from the bypass valve.

 

all grounds hooked up correctly? on the switch do u have the wires connected to the 2 outter most pins? should be a spare one in the middle... and secondly.. where the **** did u get the sexy fittings lol i didnt see that option on devils own.. looks really good

and whats the dial set at to turn the meth on??

 

Random but Whats this I hear about the methanol wearing the coating of the blower blades? "they" say its better to have the injection point on the manifold.

 

direct injection would more than likely be more efficient .. much like nitrous being more efficient.. but a throttle body spacer tap or an intake tap is much more simple... and for the wearing of the rotors.. aronious i believe lol

 

On the pressure switch, if i move the connector over to the NO? the far right one, and turn the key to accessory, it will spray!!
so the wiring is all correct


and what fittings are you talking about exactly??


It looks like i have the wrong tube tapped..

I have the regulator set at it's lowest setting for testing.. which is.. 2psi??

i also have an LED hooked up to the system, when i connect it to ALWAYS ON it lights up.. so the wiring is good.



and as far as where to mount..

pre blower is not a problem at all.. I probably should have gotten a spacer for meth so I didn't tap the intake for the nozzle.. LOL Oh well :p

 

I can't tell exactly which tube that is that you have tapped.. hmmn..

 

the black anodized check valve and the actual nozzle holder fitting on the intake are sexy lol and yeah so the dials not too high.. wirings good.. must be the vac line

outter most solenoid from the head.. next to the blue little plastic cap.. that line lol hard to explain without another pic

 

snap me more pics

 

I see where you tapped.. Why the back?? Mine is tapped before the solenoid.

This is the best I could do with the lighting i have.

The tube with the T is coming from the bypass valve into the solenoid.

 

needs to be the line off the back that way it gets a direct feeding... if i remember correctly .. i did the same thing u did the first time.. and it wouldnt spray.. but i tested it just like u.. it would.. moved it to the back line after a recommendation.. and vwala..

 

So that's it then. Damn, now i need to find another hose to re-connect the one i cut. LOL oh well... hmmn.


I appreciate the help! Looks like i'll be spraying tomorrow!

 

lol i also had to get another line. anytime man. any other questions lemme know

 

is it 1/4" hose or 1/8"?

 

Okay I tapped it from BEHIND the solenoid..
now there's suction..

The three pins on the pressure switch are labeled

from left to right

NC, NO, COM


NC is supposed to be "always on" and i tested it as such and it was.

NO Is what it's supposed to be in for reading boost

COM is ground...




after running the tubes correctly..

NO is now "always on" (shouldn't be, even in accessory mode)

NC doesn't do squat.. not under boost.. nothing, although it did work as "always on" at one point..


so whats wrong here??


the little bit that sprayed into the throttle body, made my car die when going from first to neutral.. bogged a bit.

and first time going to boost it acted real strange...
anyways...

 

Bump!

 

Yeah, the ALways on pin doesn't go to always on anymore; for no reason..

the middle pin is now the ALWAYS On.. on the pressure switch..

why would this be????

 

bump for help!

 

ugh i hate these pressure switches. i have always had nothing but problems with them. i highly recommend using a progressive controller

 

Yeah.. I probably should get the progressive... it's just a PITA right now with what I have...

I have to baby the car because i'm tuned for meth and it's not working right.

 

This is why I asked, and not the rotors but its coating https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...-drugs-183150/

 

My relay is connected as follows

Yellow 87 (connection to pump)
Red 87A (not used)
Blue 30 (+12v battery)
White 85 (connection to pressure switch)
Black 86 (connection to ignition)


according to the diagrams, this is right?? or ....