RWD LSJ Truck Build
#52
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Thanks man. Initially I'll be running the stock exchanger. I've got much more room in the front of my truck than in the cobalt. I'll place the heat exchanger directly behind the grill and I'll have enough space that I could even theoretically place a fan directly behind the exchanger if I chose to and not interfere with the ac condenser and radiator. If IAT2s are too high I'll upgrade to a larger one but for now I don't see the need immediately. As far as cooling mods I've got a dp endplate, phenolic im spacer, option b, and meth whenever I want to tune for it.
#53
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Thanks man. Initially I'll be running the stock exchanger. I've got much more room in the front of my truck than in the cobalt. I'll place the heat exchanger directly behind the grill and I'll have enough space that I could even theoretically place a fan directly behind the exchanger if I chose to and not interfere with the ac condenser and radiator. If IAT2s are too high I'll upgrade to a larger one but for now I don't see the need immediately. As far as cooling mods I've got a dp endplate, phenolic im spacer, option b, and meth whenever I want to tune for it.
#54
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More fluid volume does indeed have its benefits. With the option b tank and all the extra plumbing with my rwd setup I'll have a bit more fluid capacity than a stock setup.
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Here's the clutch disc I'll be running. Yes it's an XTD, yes it came from eBay for $50. However I know people who run them without issues in an array of vehicles so I'm not too worried. If something happens XTD does have a warranty policy. The clutch is stage 2or3 (can't remember) 6 puck for a 90 Toyota supra. I couldn't use my gmpp clutch disc because the spline count on my r154 is different than the cobalt. Discs are the same size so all should mesh together just fine.
I got my braided -3an clutch line made up and ran. All I have left is to do is secure it to the firewall to satisfy my ocd.[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ChrisR1S/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141207_120136.jpg.html][/URL
Here you can see the transmission mount resting on my aftermarket transmission crossmember. Gotta figure out how I want to mount it.
Fuel line adapter for an ls1 fits perfectly for anyone wondering. I am trading out the -6an straight pushlock fitting for a 90 fitting.
heater hoses mocked up. Anyone know if the orientation of the hoses coming from the lsj matters? I don't see why it would..
And just one showing how it's all currently sitting. Motor has the 10 degree tilt to the side as it should and it won't be tilted back as bad once trans mount is done.
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Ive pondered going above the motor along the firewall and using the opening where the ecu was (hole to left of motor) to give fresh air but I don't know if it'll be feasible or even worth it
#66
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I was thinking something along those lines..maybe a 90 degree an fitting in place of the drain plug routed to a bracket with a plug on the crossmember or bottom of frame rail for easy access. No one likes to have to jack their ride up for oil changes lol
#68
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No one likes to jack their ride up? Maybe with a pickup but normal cobalts don't have a choice, I can't even fit the ramps we have and I'm only on YYZ.
Anyways though, looks amazing and can't wait to see it up and running. I believe Powell mentioned the best setup would be a Griffin with a 5 gallon holding tank.
Anyways though, looks amazing and can't wait to see it up and running. I believe Powell mentioned the best setup would be a Griffin with a 5 gallon holding tank.
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No one likes to jack their ride up? Maybe with a pickup but normal cobalts don't have a choice, I can't even fit the ramps we have and I'm only on YYZ.
Anyways though, looks amazing and can't wait to see it up and running. I believe Powell mentioned the best setup would be a Griffin with a 5 gallon holding tank.
Anyways though, looks amazing and can't wait to see it up and running. I believe Powell mentioned the best setup would be a Griffin with a 5 gallon holding tank.
Here's my exciting Friday night:
Anybody wanna help figure the wiring part out? Hahaha
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Not sure yet. Think I've got the standalone wiring figured out but I guess I won't know till I'm ready to fire it up.
I'm under the impression that I'll have to supply ground, +12 volt constant, keyed +12 volt, a "main relay" for the pcm, a relay for the fuel pump, and that should allow the engine to crank.
I've got pcm pinouts in front of me and all the lsj wiring schematics from alldata spread out here getting it all labeled. I'll take it to the truck and route it all tomorrow and get it ready to wire up a fuse/relay box.
I'm under the impression that I'll have to supply ground, +12 volt constant, keyed +12 volt, a "main relay" for the pcm, a relay for the fuel pump, and that should allow the engine to crank.
I've got pcm pinouts in front of me and all the lsj wiring schematics from alldata spread out here getting it all labeled. I'll take it to the truck and route it all tomorrow and get it ready to wire up a fuse/relay box.
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The plug circled in red, it's in the same bundle as the evap purge solenoid. Same style plug as the for the coil harness. I need someone with an lsj to look at their car and tell me what it goes to. It's wires are intertwined everywhere.
Pink wire goes to fuse box, red w black stripe goes to ac pressure line, lime green goes to a 2 wire plug(other wire is pink that goes to fuse box as well) that I have no clue what it's for either, light blue goes to I think an Iat sensor, tan goes to pcm plug c3 pin 10 which is signal for boost gauge, dark green goes to pcm plug c2 pin 58 which is for an 02 sensor. Haven't chased the others down yet
#75
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Coil pack harness and throttle body are the same style plug...... There's also a connector up against the firewall that I believe is the same.
That plug should be the one up against the firewall. I believe it goes inside the car to the IP stuff
That plug should be the one up against the firewall. I believe it goes inside the car to the IP stuff
Last edited by TStone; 12-13-2014 at 03:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost