I'll never run an Option B tank. There's a lot better options for adding extra coolant to the system.

But I'll never get my bay as clean as that G5 just because my coils are exposed. Some stuff isn't gonna be able to be hidden and I'm cool with that, but the rats nest of wires sitting on the side of my motor has got to be taken car of somehow.

 

What do you suggest for better options?

 

Remote mount flow through tanks.

 

You misunderstand the benefits of the option b system, it's not adding more volume. Option b is there to remove air from the system allowing the maximum amount of heat transfer in the laminova cores. Google thermal heat transfer and cavitation and figure out why gm would offer a tank that doesn't add volume to the system.

 

I've looked into more than you can imagine. Especially when I took physics in college, cause applying it to cars fascinated me. Option B is a weak ass system designed for nothing more than removing air from the system. Flow through tanks can do the same thing when it comes to removing air, provided they are done properly. They add more fluid to the system to keep overall coolant temps down. Plus remote mounting them adds in levels of fluid thermodynamics that allow temperatures to stay cooler easier.

There's a reason why all of the big supercharged V8's run flow through tanks on air-to-water designs instead of some puny little burper system.

 

i did what i could to move all the wires along the bumper support down and out of sight, reloomed some stuff, rerouted a bit, move some stuff along the firewall down and out of the way too. didn't do too much but it made a difference


also be sure to look into whoevers making the headlight covers to cover up the mess of wiring behind the headlights

your bay looks cool as is (paintwise)

 

Paint wise mines about to change. I'm planning on swapping my coolant tank now that I know I can and paint it. Valve cover and supercharger are getting repainted and so is the motor mount. Doing fluorescent green I think.

I really need to buy some new hoses and wire loom and do a lot of rerouting and relooming of stuff. Plus hiding a few relays. Being able to hide the **** behind the lights would be awesome. Who's making them?

 

umm spddmn and someone else i forget unfortunately

 

Damn. I'll search when I get back to a real computer and not on my phone. Haha. I'm really interested in something like that cause I've got a lot of **** tucked behind my lights. Plus **** poor mounting tabs thanks to these ******* Gen 3s.

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/part...covers-304905/



I wouldn't say that the option b kit is a weak system because it does exactly what it's supposed to do, and I think adding it to your bay would balance the overall look well along with re looming a bunch of the underwood wiring.

 

'Preciate ya man. Those look pretty sexy. May have to spring for a set.

And yeah it does what its supposed to, but there's better ways of accomplishing the same thing is all I'm saying. But that's been argued to death on here so no need to rehash it. My bad for coming off as a dick about it.

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/parts-66/headlight-bracket-covers-304905/

Edit: nm too late lol

 

So option b or no? I was thinking about it.

 

flow through tank

 

oh and look at infraredlines build thread, he actually did quite a bit to clean up the drivers side with the fusebox and everything, think its just a few pages into the thread

 

Option B is a weak design. All it does is help bleed the system. It does nothing more to enhance the systems ability to cool. Like Blake said, flow through tank would be the best bet. Cooler air is more dense so the cooler you can keep the charged air, the better the car will perform. In a cooling system, more coolant is always better.

Think about this; when Mustang guys want to upgrade their cooling system for their superchargers, they usually mount a flow through in the bay, or if they want even more coolant, they mount a larger tank in the trunk. As I said before, there are physics related reasons why systems like that work really well. One is heat transfer and dissipation through rubber hoses. Heat will radiate out of the coolant and into the rubber hoses. With them running along the bottom of the car, the air moving over them will move the heat from the hose to the surrounding air and then away. The longer the fluid runs through the hose, the more heat can be dissipated through radiation and convection.

There's also the added benefit that more fluid takes longer to get hot. Think about boiling water. A cup of water for ramen reaches boiling point rather quickly. A half gallon of water for potatoes takes forever to boil. Apply that to even larger amounts and you see the benefit of added coolant capacity.

Also, keep in mind that most flow through tanks are aluminum. Aluminum is easy effected by ambient temperatures. This is where remote mounting them becomes an advantage. Ambient temperature in an engine bay is fairly warm. That will, to some extent, warm the tank and also the coolant within. Mounting it away from the heat of the engine bay helps keep the coolant as cool as possible. A lot of race cars that use air to water intercoolers usually mount the flow through in the passenger compartment somewhere so its not effected by engine heat.

So, just food for thought. Just cause 99.99999% of CSS uses Option B tanks in no way means they are the best solution.

 

you do gotta get air out of the system though since the air causes heatsoak

 

Yeah, but getting air out is the easy part. Actually doing something to upgrade the system is where alot of people get confused.

And infraredline's ECM relocate is sick! I may end up having to look at doing something like that when I have the extra free time. Between trying to clean it up now the best I can and repainting the VC and SC plus the dash trim before the next car meet down here in like 2 weeks, I've got one hell of a full plate! haha

 

Chop chop

 

Haha. Im trying. I'm not even starting on the interior trim until Wednesday at the earliest just because I've got to go to Hobby Lobby or something to find the paint pens. The valve cover is gonna be a pain in the ass cause that has to be completely stripped. I dont think I'm gonna chemically strip the supercharger though. Probably just gonna sand, prime, and paint over it. Painted my motor mount today so I dont have to worry about doing that. I've also got to redo one of the panels on my grille at some point and repaint my fuse box cover.

I really should have started all this **** over the winter... lmao

Trey, are you gonna go to the DFW Alliance show?

 

I am a maybe. I may have a class that day. If not I'll be in.

 

They make you do classes on Sunday?! Tell them that's against your religion! haha

 

I have to take two classes and I think the other one starts on saturday and sunday. How many of these do you think I would need to do trim in the balt?

StickerBombWrap Bulk Sheet (Random) [IHS-SB-SHTRNDM] - $12.00 : ihatestickers.com, Your number one online source for edgy stickers.

 

Without measuring I would say probably 3-4. I wrapped mine with CF vinyl from autozone and it only took one roll. I believe it was 22x17. So maybe one of the larger sheets would be enough. I also did my inner door handles and steering wheel trim pieces off that one sheet.

 

Got a sticker book from amazon and did my trim sticker by sticker.. pain in the ass. I should've done a vinyl sheet.