I used it on my badges and it turned out perfect after one coat but now I'm doing my trim and it's orange peeling horribly. How do I fix this?

 

wetsand

 

Spraying to slow. Wet sand.

 

wetsand, light coats

 

you doing the sunburst orange for ur trim? when i did mine, i got the GM paint cans that they use on the outside of the car. looks awsome and no peeling either. sanded first to take the carbon fiber sticker off, primed, painted, and coated.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3014822/4

 

For the love of god do the research before you use aerosol. Fine Sand it, prime it, paint it, clear coat it. If you don't do this then the product will fail. Plastic is one of the more harder things to apply spray paint to.

As a manager of a paint store I see these issues all of the time and 99% of the time its user error. I don't trust what Krylon Fusion says about "no prep required". If you ever used armorall on your dash pieces then spray paint will not adhere to it. Make sure the surface is COMPLETELY clean

 

What grit sandpaper should I use? I cleaned all of the pieces with alcohol before spraying, didn't sand tho.

 

I used 220 grit for my bowtie. First I sanded it. 1 coat of an industrial primer, 1 coat of the actual spray paint, and 3 coats of a poly. My bowtie can withstand a pressure washer. To some extent ofcourse but you get the idea. Your issue here is a lack of adhesion. I strongly suggest you sand AND prime it

 

You're confusing lifting and orange peel Mr. Auto Parts store genius. Orange peel is caused by how you spray. Lifting is caused by how you prep.

 

well 220 i think is a lil bit rough no? the higher grit you go the softer and finer it is. i think when i did the dash, i did around 1000. i might of used rougher grit to get the carbon fiber sticker off then fine sanded it with higher grit like 1000 to smooth it out, then primed, then sprayed then coated.

just take your time and it will come out perfect. rush it and your screwed. theres a how to i think for this. I THINK <-- use the search in the how to section and see what comes up.

GL

 

Thanks, smart ass

 

i would use 1500 to start and see what happens....you might need to go down to 1000. i know with basecoat it will cover up to 600 scartches and if your spraying silver or golds i recomend 800 minimum. and if you didnt sand look forward to it lifting in the future and that was the first and biggest mistake

for the method he is saying definately not. most primers are good to 180 unless its specified by the manufactuer for higher grit. yep and i agree rush and your screwed. paint is a time consuming thing considering the fact you also want a clean job.

thats one way of doing it. i sanded my boy ties with 800 and then a grey scuff pad to get around the edges. base coat and clear with proper flash times did the trick and its been blasted numerous times with a pressure washer.

i wouldnt neccisarily say its lack of adhesion although since he didnt sand anything its going to become a lack of adhesion. theres a few ways to tell between orange peel and lifting itself. orange peel will look like well an orange or a basketball as far as the texture will go.......lifting well it will either be lifting off or it will look like the paint is cracking. orange peel is caused by a lot of things....spraying to fast, spaying to slow, high high pressure, low air pressure, uneven coats and so forth. lifting is definately caused by improper prep work, chemicals or substrates on the surface, to wet of coats, mixing certain brands of chemicals or substrates and so forth.....not trying to sound like a dick or smart ass just trying to provide the correct facts.

if everyone wants ill do a how to this week on how to do this with paint gun. ill keep it fully detailed with everything from taking off the trim to prep work to the paint process itself and installation. ill also include a how to for a rattle can but it wont be with pics since i think base coat clear or base coat with hardener is the way to go over rattle can any day and will outlast and will provide a stronger finish. if people want their stuff painted you can send me your stuff aswell just shoot me a pm and i will hook you up. i can do color matched stuff or interior color matched black and so on.

 

Orange peel is not caused by spraying to fast. That would be dry spray.

 

dry spray can cause orange peel aswell lol. dry spray is just a finer version. regardless it gets taken car of the same way. wetsanding.

 

I actually bought the krylon made for plastic and tried it out on my front emblem. Worked well so far and the only thing I did to it was clean it. No wet sanding, primering, etc. It's all in the user. No orange peel and it has withstood to rock chips, etc.

 

It could be lifting the 1st coat of paint underneath because of the solvents in the paint.

 

It's mainly user error. Improper prep and heavy coats will do this. The latter being more prominent.

 

i sanded my botie with 400 grit... painted.. looked like ass.. so a hit it with a scuff pad then hit again but slower and sanded with 600 then did 1 more coat.. i didnt even clear mine.. front and back boties still look wonderful.. thats just how i did it... i did my buddys s10 badge the same way

 

not orange. it's going to be black. i was going to do the matching blue for my car but i already have the black paint and all of my accents are black, side markers, brake lights.