I polished my valve cover today and it took a good 5 1/2 hours straight no brake,not including removing, putting it back on, or the time it took clear to dry.... ill get some pics later.

I was wondering if any of you wanted to work out a deal? ship me your valve cover, i polish/clear it in 1-3 days (prob 1 just deppends on how many i have) and mail it back, $70+ship[ping to me covers it all, i pay shipping back to you, and it is all done my hand, no machines

any takers? pics later

 

I'd like one!

 

does the price and all of those details sound ok to you? you would be w/o your car for like a week unless you buy another one and send it to me. also i only pay for the shipping back, not to me, i kinda worded it wrong

 

you polished it by hand? how?

 

we wanna see picssss???

 

pitcures!

 

pics are good

 

Prolly means that the valve covers arnt handled by machines and that he uses hand tools or something

 

so he used a wire brush on the whole thing?

 

no wetsand and then rubbing compound..... i need help now though, one of the scres broke off in the block on my valve cvover

 

go buy a screw extractor set and be real careful taking it out or your screwed

 

or you can re-tap that hole with a tap and die set

 

 

well why dont you suggest something then
its so easy to just say

 

I have a new cover inbound, would like to see pics

 

Wasn't talking about the bolt was talking about process
As Far as that just buy a tap at any automotive store then dye a new 1 in.
Is easy. & next time be very very careful is alum will snap easy.

 

the polishing process? I used an electric drill with a wire wheel on my last car, didnt really came out the way I wanted it so I just painted it black, then sold the car later

 

had that happen on one of my ecotecs, I used a drill with a smaller bit, drill into the center a little then reverse the drill and it will come out do it slowly

 

here is mine... the clear coat dulls the shine but it is still pretty good, you can still see reflections in it of the fuel rail and intake, it looked like my intake before i clear coated it...





those pictures were taken w/o a flash after the sun went down so they dont really do justise.... i guess it just lookd kind of like when you first buy your balt but in person its alot shinnyer, if you want i dont have to clear coat, just rub it down once in a while.... i kinda wish i did that to mine

 

btw the first one is taken outside, second one inmy garage, that is why the first one looks like the sun is still out compaird to the 2nd

 

prolly woulda been alot easier with a die grinder...and a lot less time consuming

 

hand polishing always looks better, you dont miss a th8ing, plus the other ppl that did theirs, halfcent being one of them, i think did theirs by hand

 

Take it From some 1 that Knows you will not get the luster you need by hand polishing.
Unless you can rotate your arm at 2800 to 3400 rpm thats wat rpm it takes to do the final polish ,,,,,And the Die grinder takes care of all the rough stuff.

Eastwood.com supplies has every thing u need to know about polishing & buffing. Pot aluminum you start with 80 grit finish with 340 grit then sewn cloth wheel & Finally a loose cloth wheel burns on the finish or (ie) polishes it.

word up to help another cobalt driver.

 

i used ot be able to then got the GF so ive been slackN at wackN

 

F************************************************* ************CK i just snapped my second valve cover bolt, im bearly tightening these and their not even hot, are there replacments that are stronger than fking cheap ass aluminum screws