Putting in Fog Light ???
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Putting in Fog Light ???
yea, so i want to get fog lights since the bumper i bought off of someone has the spots for them, and it looks retarded with out the lights there. my question is i see how they connect to the car, but where would they connect so that they actually work? on the right side (when looking at the front) there's 2 hookups, but on the left side there isn't any. does the fog light wire reach all the way through the bumper to the other side, or is there something i'm missing? i feel like an idiot asking this but i've never had fog lights so i'm clueless
also, what size should i get?
also, what size should i get?
Last edited by D4u2s0t; May 25, 2007 at 02:35 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Brampton, ON, Canada
Not too sure how its connected to work but it shouldnt be too hard. im guessing you could just always connect it to a power source or the battery and run a switch inside. As for the size no clue but from what ive heard the stock fog light assembly is kinda expensive.
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i don't know anything about electrical stuff at all... that's why i'm asking i guess... mechanical stuff i'm good with, but when it comes to splicing wires and **** i have no idea.
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Try talking to one of those guys that connected up their HID Projectors. You just need to find a suitable power source to connect them to. Then youll just have to mount a switch in the interior and run the wire.
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yea, i'll have to look into it i guess... i was hoping it was plug and play since there's extra plugs sitting behind the headlights...
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From: Brampton, ON, Canada
Well I was on the site "***************" and came across this How To. The pictures arnt working for me though.
"If you have a front license plate (some states don't), the first thing you will have to do is modify the license plate holder. Use a pair of shears and clip off the top ridge, and most of the bottom, as shown in these photos. You can then re-attach the license plate with sheet metal screws.
My car is the LS. The center grille below the license plate is held in place with four tabs. If you put the car on ramps, you can easily release them by hand and push the grille out towards the front.
Now you have PLENTY of space to install your lights. You have at least 6 inches of depth, so there is no need to install those crappy, super miniature lights that are not worth anything. I chose the Optilux series made by Hella. The fogs are projector type with a sharp cut-off, and the driving lights are the oval type (although full round would have been fine).
.rant on
Buy decent fog lights- the ones that have a filament shield to prevent the light from being directed into the eyes of oncoming drivers. I've seen plenty of so-called fog lights without this essential shield, and they cause dangerous glare. I recommend the projector type (plain white- no purple fringing and all that crap.)
.rant off
This picture shows how much space you have to work with when the center grille is removed.
When you mount the lights, recess them an inch or more so that you can snap the grille back in place. You do not want to leave the grille out permanently, because a stone thrown by a car or truck in front of you could easily wipe out your air conditioner condenser or break the lens of the lights. Make sure the lights are recessed far enough so they don't touch the grille. It's plastic, and the lights generate plenty of heat- you don't want it to sag or melt!
This picture shows all four lights in place before the wiring is done.
Now, it's time for the wiring. You'll need to tap +12 volts, so see my other DIY guide on this forum on how to tap juice for accessories.
When you buy the lights, they come with a relay. Mount the relays on the crossmember near the fuse box. This is the wiring diagram I used for my install. This is for the fog lights. Use the identical diagram for driving lights.
On the right side of this diagram, you need to run a tap on the low-beam wire going to your headlights. This is very easy. Remove the headlight on the driver's side (instructions are in your owner's manual). Identify which wire is for your low-beams, and tap it. The other end runs to one of the coil terminals on the relay. (It has 4 terminals. This connection is one down.)
Connect your source of 12V (after it goes through a fuse or circuit breaker) to one of the switch contacts on the relay. (That's two down.)
Connect the other switch contact on your relay to the fog lights. Use #14 gauge wire- they draw a lot of juice. (That's three down.)
Here's how the relays looked when I was done:
You still have the remaining coil terminal on your relay to do something with. I decided to add some switches to my console to control the relays. It is very easy to do.
Buy yourself some 4-wire telephone cable from Radio Shack- it's perfect for this. Keep in mind that you don't have to worry about shorts if you use the above diagram. If you get a short, the only thing that will happen is fog light will go on.
While at Radio Shack, buy the switches you like. I found some mini-paddle switches that look as if Chevy had installed them. In your center console, remove the black cup holder insert (it pulls straight out). Then, remove the cup holder insert by prying up FROM THE FRONT until the tabs release. (You can see the three tabs in the picture.)
You now have plenty of space to work with, and you can drill the holes for the switches:
Snake the wire through the front of the console, and use plastic ties to route it in front of the fan under the dashboard on the passenger side up to the window:
Pry open the dashboard panel on the passenger side and bring the wire up to the door weather strip.
Drill a hole through the weather strip, pass the wire through that hole, and re-clip the dashoard side panel. When done, it will look like this:
Keep the wire high and away from the hinge as shown in the picture. Using some coat hanger wire, snake the wire along the TOP inside of the fender. The wire should exit right at the front headlight where you can grab it easily.
Now, you can use plastic ties to run the wire across the front to where the relays are located.
good luck
"If you have a front license plate (some states don't), the first thing you will have to do is modify the license plate holder. Use a pair of shears and clip off the top ridge, and most of the bottom, as shown in these photos. You can then re-attach the license plate with sheet metal screws.
My car is the LS. The center grille below the license plate is held in place with four tabs. If you put the car on ramps, you can easily release them by hand and push the grille out towards the front.
Now you have PLENTY of space to install your lights. You have at least 6 inches of depth, so there is no need to install those crappy, super miniature lights that are not worth anything. I chose the Optilux series made by Hella. The fogs are projector type with a sharp cut-off, and the driving lights are the oval type (although full round would have been fine).
.rant on
Buy decent fog lights- the ones that have a filament shield to prevent the light from being directed into the eyes of oncoming drivers. I've seen plenty of so-called fog lights without this essential shield, and they cause dangerous glare. I recommend the projector type (plain white- no purple fringing and all that crap.)
.rant off
This picture shows how much space you have to work with when the center grille is removed.
When you mount the lights, recess them an inch or more so that you can snap the grille back in place. You do not want to leave the grille out permanently, because a stone thrown by a car or truck in front of you could easily wipe out your air conditioner condenser or break the lens of the lights. Make sure the lights are recessed far enough so they don't touch the grille. It's plastic, and the lights generate plenty of heat- you don't want it to sag or melt!
This picture shows all four lights in place before the wiring is done.
Now, it's time for the wiring. You'll need to tap +12 volts, so see my other DIY guide on this forum on how to tap juice for accessories.
When you buy the lights, they come with a relay. Mount the relays on the crossmember near the fuse box. This is the wiring diagram I used for my install. This is for the fog lights. Use the identical diagram for driving lights.
On the right side of this diagram, you need to run a tap on the low-beam wire going to your headlights. This is very easy. Remove the headlight on the driver's side (instructions are in your owner's manual). Identify which wire is for your low-beams, and tap it. The other end runs to one of the coil terminals on the relay. (It has 4 terminals. This connection is one down.)
Connect your source of 12V (after it goes through a fuse or circuit breaker) to one of the switch contacts on the relay. (That's two down.)
Connect the other switch contact on your relay to the fog lights. Use #14 gauge wire- they draw a lot of juice. (That's three down.)
Here's how the relays looked when I was done:
You still have the remaining coil terminal on your relay to do something with. I decided to add some switches to my console to control the relays. It is very easy to do.
Buy yourself some 4-wire telephone cable from Radio Shack- it's perfect for this. Keep in mind that you don't have to worry about shorts if you use the above diagram. If you get a short, the only thing that will happen is fog light will go on.
While at Radio Shack, buy the switches you like. I found some mini-paddle switches that look as if Chevy had installed them. In your center console, remove the black cup holder insert (it pulls straight out). Then, remove the cup holder insert by prying up FROM THE FRONT until the tabs release. (You can see the three tabs in the picture.)
You now have plenty of space to work with, and you can drill the holes for the switches:
Snake the wire through the front of the console, and use plastic ties to route it in front of the fan under the dashboard on the passenger side up to the window:
Pry open the dashboard panel on the passenger side and bring the wire up to the door weather strip.
Drill a hole through the weather strip, pass the wire through that hole, and re-clip the dashoard side panel. When done, it will look like this:
Keep the wire high and away from the hinge as shown in the picture. Using some coat hanger wire, snake the wire along the TOP inside of the fender. The wire should exit right at the front headlight where you can grab it easily.
Now, you can use plastic ties to run the wire across the front to where the relays are located.
good luck
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