Brake Ducts
Brake Ducts
When I swapped my pads over the weekend I had a brief thought about brake ducts and a quick look under the car kind of told me that it wouldn't be an easy thing to add and would require some cutting.
Would adding brake ducts be completely unnecessary with a car this light and brakes as big as they are with a good pad on the front for the track? My previous track days were run with a Lightning and even with the extra cooling help things still didn't stay real happy. Obviously I'm looking at two vehicles that are like comparing an apple to a block of lead here though.
If it isn't unnecessary, who has done it and do you have any pictures of your set up to provoke some thoughts on where to place the inlets and where to route them?
Would adding brake ducts be completely unnecessary with a car this light and brakes as big as they are with a good pad on the front for the track? My previous track days were run with a Lightning and even with the extra cooling help things still didn't stay real happy. Obviously I'm looking at two vehicles that are like comparing an apple to a block of lead here though.
If it isn't unnecessary, who has done it and do you have any pictures of your set up to provoke some thoughts on where to place the inlets and where to route them?
I've been running sans ducts, but with real race pads (Cobalt XR1). Not even lick of fade. However, my dust boots aren't terribly happy. I run titanium shims to help prevent some of the heat transfer to boots and pistons. I probably need to double up the shims for it to be more effective. If they run cooler, the life of the pads and rotors would be extended.
John Powell's got an LNF ducting kit in the works. I've played around with the idea of drilling into the control arm and mounting a shield to duct air towards the rotors. Same method that Mitsu and Porsche use. I tried it without drilling, but you need more stability than that.
John Powell's got an LNF ducting kit in the works. I've played around with the idea of drilling into the control arm and mounting a shield to duct air towards the rotors. Same method that Mitsu and Porsche use. I tried it without drilling, but you need more stability than that.
I've been starting to look into brake ducts to add some extra cooling. I boil my brake fluid every time I go to stratotech in fort saskatchewan. I've tried Motul RBF 600 DOT 4 and Motul DOT 5.1 both boiled at roughly the same time.
My rotors are Slotted and Vented Powerslots. The pads are Carbotech AX6 and I love them, they have no fade whatsoever.
However I drive it hard on the track and stop hard. Stratotech is supposed to be hard on brakes compared to other tracks.
So, the conclusion I've come to is I need more cooling for racing. So I'll be looking at that LNF brake duct kit. That would be cool.
My rotors are Slotted and Vented Powerslots. The pads are Carbotech AX6 and I love them, they have no fade whatsoever.
However I drive it hard on the track and stop hard. Stratotech is supposed to be hard on brakes compared to other tracks.
So, the conclusion I've come to is I need more cooling for racing. So I'll be looking at that LNF brake duct kit. That would be cool.
I've been starting to look into brake ducts to add some extra cooling. I boil my brake fluid every time I go to stratotech in fort saskatchewan. I've tried Motul RBF 600 DOT 4 and Motul DOT 5.1 both boiled at roughly the same time.
My rotors are Slotted and Vented Powerslots. The pads are Carbotech AX6 and I love them, they have no fade whatsoever.
However I drive it hard on the track and stop hard. Stratotech is supposed to be hard on brakes compared to other tracks.
So, the conclusion I've come to is I need more cooling for racing. So I'll be looking at that LNF brake duct kit. That would be cool.
My rotors are Slotted and Vented Powerslots. The pads are Carbotech AX6 and I love them, they have no fade whatsoever.
However I drive it hard on the track and stop hard. Stratotech is supposed to be hard on brakes compared to other tracks.
So, the conclusion I've come to is I need more cooling for racing. So I'll be looking at that LNF brake duct kit. That would be cool.
I run either Endless RF650 or Prospeed RS683. Never had fluid fade in this car, or pad fade, but I also run full on race pads. I've used Cobalt Friction XR1, which were good, but wore out way too fast. I moved on to Raybestos ST43, and they've been great so far.
removing the dust shields for the track helps a lot. I don't know if you've tried that. I did that with the Cobalt and the Mustang and no sign of brake fade and I was using HPS on the Cobalt, which aren't very track oriented. I'm never on the track for more than 20-30 mins at a time tho so if you're going to be on for more, that may not be enough.
removing the dust shields for the track helps a lot. I don't know if you've tried that. I did that with the Cobalt and the Mustang and no sign of brake fade and I was using HPS on the Cobalt, which aren't very track oriented. I'm never on the track for more than 20-30 mins at a time tho so if you're going to be on for more, that may not be enough.
Also, HPS is no where near enough brake pad if you are going fast on track. They are worse than the stock Ferodos. I think that's terrible advise. For beginners and intermediates, I think the stock pads are probably fine. When you start going really fast, you're going to need real track pads.
There are no dust shields on a TC Cobalt.
Also, HPS is no where near enough brake pad if you are going fast on track. They are worse than the stock Ferodos. I think that's terrible advise. For beginners and intermediates, I think the stock pads are probably fine. When you start going really fast, you're going to need real track pads.
Also, HPS is no where near enough brake pad if you are going fast on track. They are worse than the stock Ferodos. I think that's terrible advise. For beginners and intermediates, I think the stock pads are probably fine. When you start going really fast, you're going to need real track pads.
There are no dust shields on a TC Cobalt.
Also, HPS is no where near enough brake pad if you are going fast on track. They are worse than the stock Ferodos. I think that's terrible advise. For beginners and intermediates, I think the stock pads are probably fine. When you start going really fast, you're going to need real track pads.
Also, HPS is no where near enough brake pad if you are going fast on track. They are worse than the stock Ferodos. I think that's terrible advise. For beginners and intermediates, I think the stock pads are probably fine. When you start going really fast, you're going to need real track pads.
I wasn't advising that he gets HPS. I said they weren't track oriented.
Try a set of full race pads and you will most definately notice a difference on the track. I had a friend running a track day on HP plus and I told him I was running Hawk race pads so that night we switched his car to the race pads he went back to the track the next day. He came off the track and said Holy Crap do those things stop. I wont run a track day with out some race pads installed I want to try the Raybestos pads and see how they are when I wear my current ones out.
Motul 600 should easily outlast AX6, unless you are on a very low speed course with no long straights. Not my preferred fluid though. If your pedal never goes to the floor, you are getting pad fade, not fluid fade.
I run either Endless RF650 or Prospeed RS683. Never had fluid fade in this car, or pad fade, but I also run full on race pads. I've used Cobalt Friction XR1, which were good, but wore out way too fast. I moved on to Raybestos ST43, and they've been great so far.
I run either Endless RF650 or Prospeed RS683. Never had fluid fade in this car, or pad fade, but I also run full on race pads. I've used Cobalt Friction XR1, which were good, but wore out way too fast. I moved on to Raybestos ST43, and they've been great so far.
It could be the track and my driving style. haha. The track is about 1 mile and is actually made for karts (nuff said). However on the main straight i can still go 180 Km/h (110 ish mph?), then I'm hard on the brakes. I want to push myself and the car to it's limits so I can learn to deal with it and learn from my mistakes. But I'm not the only one boiling fluid either.
I had a friend tell me that I might need to, ever so slightly, drag my brakes on the main straight to help with transferring heat from the caliper/pads into the rotor where the heat can be dissipated a bit more effectively. Just incase there is a gap between pad and rotor when I'm off the brakes.
I dunno. I guess the real test will be when the new track at Castrol Raceway opens up. A PROPER road course designed for cars (not karts) @ roughly 2 Miles long. It's supposed to have some decent straights and higher speed corners. He said an 07 Cadillac CTS-V (400 version) would likely get up to 240 km/h (145-150 mph?) on the main straight. That should give my brakes a bit more time to cool off.
And I'm curious. Do you think that Going from the Carbotech AX6 (which, as I said, didn't seem to fade at all on my car) to a more high end racing pad might REDUCE heat build up?? It seems kinda backwards to me, but experience speaks louder than what seems logical.
You have a few options to help you out. I'd say go w/ Endless RF650 or Prospeed RS683. Race pads should help a little, because you shouldn't have to be on the pedal as long, which reduces the amount of heat transfer. The other is titanium shims. I use them to help reduce heat transfer to the pistons. I had a company cut some for our pads.
DH548 Titanium Brake Backing Plate for Chevrolet Cobalt SS Brembo [TS-T-DH0548] : Hard Brakes - Titanium Brake Backing Plates, Brake Shims, Brake Heat Shields
Ultimately though, you'll need more air, and more time off the pedal. A kart track will murder your brakes. It should be much better on a big track.
DH548 Titanium Brake Backing Plate for Chevrolet Cobalt SS Brembo [TS-T-DH0548] : Hard Brakes - Titanium Brake Backing Plates, Brake Shims, Brake Heat Shields
Ultimately though, you'll need more air, and more time off the pedal. A kart track will murder your brakes. It should be much better on a big track.
You have a few options to help you out. I'd say go w/ Endless RF650 or Prospeed RS683. Race pads should help a little, because you shouldn't have to be on the pedal as long, which reduces the amount of heat transfer. The other is titanium shims. I use them to help reduce heat transfer to the pistons. I had a company cut some for our pads.
DH548 Titanium Brake Backing Plate for Chevrolet Cobalt SS Brembo [TS-T-DH0548] : Hard Brakes - Titanium Brake Backing Plates, Brake Shims, Brake Heat Shields
Ultimately though, you'll need more air, and more time off the pedal. A kart track will murder your brakes. It should be much better on a big track.
DH548 Titanium Brake Backing Plate for Chevrolet Cobalt SS Brembo [TS-T-DH0548] : Hard Brakes - Titanium Brake Backing Plates, Brake Shims, Brake Heat Shields
Ultimately though, you'll need more air, and more time off the pedal. A kart track will murder your brakes. It should be much better on a big track.
Thanks for the tips.



