While I have done HPDE events in the past, this will be my first with my 2009 Sedan SS.

Aside from removing loose items I am planning on replacing the stock DOT3 brake fluid with DOT4 to prevent boiling. I have 31k with the original front pads (~8k on the rears), they appear to be in good shape still but I was wondering if I should maybe toss new pads on before I go or at the least, bring pads with me. My car is completey stock as of now. Any other suggestions for prepping or things to bring with me for the balt?

 

Completely stock is the best way to track the car for the first few times. Bravo for not modding it before. 31k on the original fronts may be much. Make sure you bring a spare set and keep an eye on them. The other concern would be if the pins have seized since they've never been moved. I would check before going.

 

Thanks for the advice. I know my rears siezed about a year ago and I replaced the rear brakes, lubricated everything,etc. When I flush my brake fluid I will yank the calipers and relubricate everything just to be sure. This weekend I'll pull one of the front tires off to more closely inspect the front pad wear. NASA wants at least 1/2 the pad material left, how much is that roughly for these pads? 1/3"?

 

go through your entire car. check your brake lines, brakes, tires, struts, fluids etc etc etc. i use brembos fluid but ate or wilwood make some good ones aswell. good luck with finishing your hpdes. leave it stock maybe add a sway bar sooner or later as the car REALLY benefits from it imho

 

Yep, I bought ATE DOT4 blue as I used that in my old e46 328i I used to take to these and I never had an issue with it. I love the dual colors they have, makes flushing it easier. I'm hoping for now to get to a couple HPDEs a season and a few autocrosses as well. Would adding a sway bar (Front and/or rear?) negatively effect daily driving? Oh, also, under the stresses at the track, is it likely my stock charge piping might pop? Would it be wise to toss a couple of sheet metal screws in at the junctions or is this not necessary?

 

You will be fine with stock charge pipes. Ive ran mine all reason and i even ran them for awhile with a big turbo onmy previous cobalt. Never popped one but they did expand lol.

Add a rear bar after you make it through hpde2 and you understand how this car works. It wont affect your driving negatively onthe street whatsoever

 

I have some time before the HPDE, would you recommend installing a rear sway bar before I do this or go out first, get a feel for the car on the track and then for my next HPDE install it?

 

i would do hpde one and 2 without it. get a real good feeling for how the car is bone stock. the reason i say do hpde2 without is because use hpde 1 to learn how to drive the car and really pay attention to working on your lines and everything. in hpde 2 you should have a good idea of what to do on the track and then analyze where the car could use improvement. THEN add parts. but learn stock first.

 

Thanks for the advice guys! This is all really helpful. This is also the first time I'll be taking a FWD vehicle out on the track.

 

check your front brakes and removed all your mats and everything out of the trunk and youll be fine...the number one thing i noticed on my track days with a stock ss tho was brake fade so thats why i upgraded to ss lines and wilwood 570 fluid but adding some mods later slowly or one at a time should be fun for you like a hardcore rear sway bar or pedders springs or koni yellows

 

Fluid is deifnately recommended.

Biggest thing is try to be smooth.

 

Come back after you've gotten some seat time, and let us know your thoughts, and we can give you input on changes. Personally, I would say rear bar + konis at the same time, but the size of the rear bar depends on some of your feedback.

 

^^^what he said. after some seat time you will see where the car could really use improvement. ask questions before you make them to seek the right route. the cars good in its stock form or with gms1 for power. the add ons like the upper pipe and intercooler are just upgrades.

one thing to watch is if you ever plan on running TT classes you really need to watch what you can and and cant do. the lnf cobalts base in TTC already so you have 19 points to play with before being bumped to TTB. learn it, love it, drive it lol. you will have fun with the car as is.

 

Items that I would make sure to bring is water, snacks, extra clothing (incase of close calls ), extra oil, tire pressure gauge, torque wrench, jack stands, tool set, towels, and definately bring a gopro with you. Best learning tool ever. Also I forgot but bring a lanyard that can hold on to your track schedule. It keeps it handy and in good condition.

 

Bring oil. Mine uses almost a quart per 4 sessions (I thinking PCV because it doesn't use any on the street). I check oil and refill after every session.

My last set of stock pads lasted 5 sessions but we had a big fast, front straight. Learn how to change the pads as it only takes about 20-30 minutes depending on how fast you are getting the wheels on and off.

 

Okay cool, I'll bring extra oil, I didn't even consider that, and I'll bring pads with me, just in case. I'd love to get a GoPro, but that's something that is going to have to financially wait for a couple seasons. I'd rather get another track day than a camera.

 

you may want to bring rotors as well. they may end up pulsating from the heat depending on how old they are. blank napa rotors will do just fine. napa premiums are typically the rotor of choice among road racers. decent quality and cheap since they go through them so often.

 

Cheap rotors like that won't cause any problems? What about off the track?

 

Actually, on that note, if I replace the rotors and pads while at the track, how do I bed them? What can I expect from new brakes on the track???

 

they are actually quite good quality. I've been running them for about 8 months now. they are much better than rotors from other auto parts stores. you won't have any issues. I always make sure to never keep on the brake after stopping, and if i have to stop, i creep along so the heat from that pads doesn't heat the rotor up too much in one spot. this is typically what will cause it to pulsate. always make sure to take a cool down lap before returning to the pits if possible. do about 5 stops at 75% braking from 100 down to 50, and they should be good to go. your best bet would be to bed them before you go to the track too. I'd just go ahead and do the swap. if you end up needing new pads, i wouldnt put new pads on old rotors anyways. you should typically change both.

 

you realize he has an lnf right? oem rotors are cheap enough so use them. also if your on stock pads you will be fine. ferrodo hp 1000s are a good track/street pad. i drove to the track both days which is 45 minutes each way, 5 sessions a day(2 day nasa hpde) 2 15 minute sessions 1 half hour session 2 20 minute sessions and i didnt have any brake fade or even thought twice about changing the pads and i drive the car as hard as you can drive it on rs3s.

 

I was just at Road America myself just a few weekends ago for my first HPDE. Some interesting info in this thread.

 

+1 cheap rotors that are OEM spec. Not so cheap that they thin the walls by increasing the vane width though. There's a difference between cheap and piece of crap. I like disposable rotors.

 

Its nice to have a dedicated set of pads and rotors for track. I love the race pads but when you go back to the regular street pads it feels like you dont have brakes.

 

but are you a ss/tc or ss/sc if so you really dont need them unless your full track car lol