It is easy to find subjective opinions about brake pad performance, but often difficult
to find hard data. This post collects hard data on popular brake pads - much of which
has been gleaned from other forums.
The friction coefficient is directly proportional to pad grippiness and brake torque.
The max operating temperature is directly related to fade resistance which is an
important factor in choosing a brake pad as well.
Performance categories are organized by friction coefficient and serve as a guide
only - some pads may fit into multiple categories. If you have questions about a
particular pad, it is always best to get a data sheet directly from the manufacturer
to ensure that the latest formulation meets your particular needs.

Please post any corrections or additional data

OEM-level Performance
# examples: OEM MkIV pads, Mintex Redbox, Hawk Ceramic
# cF=0.30-0.40
# max temp before fade: 600-700°F (Hawk Ceramic is a little higher on cF, redbox is lower on both cF & fade)
# street use only


Performance Enthusiast/Light Autocross
# examples: Hawk HPS, EBC Greenstuff, EBC Redstuff, Porterfield R4-S, Axxis Ultimate
# cF=0.41-0.45 (EBC pads have higher cF, Greenstuff has poor performance on heavier cars
# max temp before fade: 700-900°F (some pads may be rated higher)
# light auto-cross and performance street use


Autocross/Light Track Pad/HPDE
# examples: Hawk HP+, Carbotech Bobcat/AX6, Ferodo DS-2000, EBC Yellowstuff
# cF=0.46-0.49
# max temp before fade: 900-1100°F
# light track days, auto-cross, and performance street use


Track Pad/HPDE
# examples: Ferodo DS-2500, Carbotech XP8/XP10, Mintex C-tech 1155
# cF=0.50-0.55
# max temp before fade: 1100-1300°F
# track days and high-performance street use


Race Pad
# examples: Ferodo DS-3000, Hawk Blue 9012, Hawk Black, EBC Bluestuff
# cF=0.56-0.68 (depends on specific race application)
# max temp before fade: 1300°F+ (depends on specific race application)
# track use only

By Manufacturer:
# Pagid pads
# Ferodo pads
# Carbotech pads
# Cobalt Friction pads
# Hawk
# http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive.html
# http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/pads.html

What is brake fade?

Pad fade occurs for several reasons. All friction materials have a coefficient of friction curve over temperature. Friction materials have an optimal working temperature where the coefficient of friction is the highest. Sometimes you can use the brakes so hard that you get the temperature over the point of maximum friction to where the coefficient of friction curve starts to decline.

The mechanics of this decline in the coefficient of friction are varied. At a certain temperature, certain elements of the pad can melt or smear causing a lubrication effect, this is the classic glazed pad. Usually the organic binder resin starts to go first, then even the metallic elements of the friction material can start to melt. At really high temperatures the friction material starts to vaporize and the pad can sort of hydroplane on a boundary layer of vaporized metal and friction material which acts like a lubricant. Pad fade is felt as a car that still has a decent, non mushy feeling brake pedal that won't stop even if you are pushing as hard as you can. Usually it builds somewhat slowly giving you time to compensate for it, but some friction materials have a sudden drop off of friction when the heat is put on them resulting in sudden dangerous fade.

Green Fade Green fade is a type of fade that manifests itself on brand new brake pads. Brake pads are usually made of different types of heat resistant materials bound together with a phenolic resin binder. These are thermosetting plastic resins with a high heat resistance. On a new brake pad, these resins will out-gas or cure when used hard on their first few heat cycles. The new pad can hydroplane on this layer of excreted gas. Green fade is dangerous because many people assume that new brakes are perfect and can be used hard right off the bat. Green fade typically will occur much earlier than normal fade so it can catch a driver that is used to a certain car's characteristics unaware. Typically the onset of green fade is rather sudden, further increasing the danger factor. Green fade can occur if you change the pads and drive on the street for a few hundred or even thousand miles, never braking hard, then suddenly start using the brakes hard.

 

not very technical but here is some info on carbotech pads in an email I just received:

Hello Jason,

You are correct, the Turbo has a Brembo pad up front and the same rear as the Solstice and Sky. We have not updated the website to reflect that yet. We do have them, and I would recommend XP8 front and rear, to give you the best braking for the track. They are actually quieter and produce less dust than the AX6 do. You will find for autox that they won't bite as hard as the AX6 in the first couple of runs, but once a little heat gets into them, they will bite great. It is definitely the best set up for all 3 applications. The AX6 may be beneficial in the rear for autox, but the problem is the front pads for the track. Ideally, the XP10 up front at the track would be best, so by having the Xp8 in the rear, it will lessen the stress and amount of heat on the front pads.

Let me know what you think about it and we will get you set up when your ready. Give us a week to make them when you order in case we are out of stock at the time you place your order.

Here are the part numbers and the pricing:

(F)CT1379-XP8=$191.00
(R)CT1095-XP8=$138.00
(R)CT1095-AX6=$125.00

Talk to you later and thanks,


Mike Jr.



--
Mike Puskar, Jr.
Carbotech Performance Brakes
4031 Dearborn Place N.W.
Concord, NC 28027

 

Just the thread I was looking for...


I want to upgrade the pads for autox use. I found the stock pads not enough bite and seem
to need a little heat to work (hoping not to waste my first run). Should I swap out all the
pads for one of the following?

Hawk HP+, Carbotech Bobcat, Ferodo DS-2000, EBC Yellowstuff

or I also read that just upgrading the rear pads would be sufficient. And I assume I should
surface my rotors before putting on new pads? (my rear rotors are gouged as jboogie calls
it )

 

 

^^^^^
Well, that had to happen somewhere in this thread

 

Any suggestions?

 

FYI - I find it hard to get a track pad (like the HT10 or GranSport GS3 used on my Cobra for 2 Solosprint seasons) hot enough to work well for autocross.
http://www.ibrakeparts.com/products/...t/default.aspx
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...rack+Only+Pads
Both great pads but NOT for the street...

On the Cobalt I am thinking HP+ front and HPS rear, reccomended by a co insructor at the BMW School (he's got a E92 M3 BTW) - decend bite when cold (noisy though) and handle heat very well...
I am also looking at the Carbotech Performance Brakes line up. A fellow solosprint competitor ran the XP8's this year and swear by them.

On re surfacing rotors I posted this earlier (copied from Satisfied Motorsports)

In order to ensure a uniform mating surface between the new brake pad and existing rotor, it is optimal to resurface the rotor prior to installing and bedding-in new brake pads. Resurfacing the rotor will also help ensure maximum pad life and braking torque (i.e. stopping power). Further, when changing from one brake compound to another, especially when switching from semi-metallic brake pad to a ceramic-based brake compound, it is necessary to turn your rotors to remove any existing friction material deposits on the rotor. These friction material deposits (called "film transfer") can often interfere with the proper "bedding" of new brake pads and, additionally, can cause a notable shudder during the initial stages of new pad use.

Keep in mind, however, that when resurfacing the rotor, make sure you are within 20% of the factory specified rotor thickness after resurfacing, or else your rotor will be more prone to warping and cracking, or otherwise present a condition where catastrophic failure may occur (e.g. a rotor may crack severely and then shatter under hard braking).

 

I agree, I had very good luck with HP+ fronts and HPS rears. I found the HPS very little different that the stock pads.

Scott

 

but I thought Cobalt SS have front brake bias... wouldnt using HP+ front and HPS rear
make things worse?

 

They do have some frt brake bias, but IMO they dont need anymore rear brake, the rear brakes dont actually work that hard on a stock setup, meaning its hard to get heat into them and keep it there to benefit from a more aggressive pad. But that aside the fact that a Balt can be made to rotate very nicely with proper spring and rear bar setup I highly doubt anyone would really want any further rear brake bias to make the car turn.

 

except that I cant change springs or rear bar for the stock autox class I'm in...

 

You could try Porterfield R4-1s in the back. I like this pad.

You might also try Cobalt XR2 or CSR. Give Cobalt a call and tell them your situation. (same goes for any brake company)

 

For auto x i would leave the stock pads alone. For racing thats different....I like pagid best of all....and the car needs brake cooling