Tuesday night meets @ 403 & Dundas
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Guys I just found cross drilled rotors and pads for under $300 and they come from London Ontario so no shipping as long as you can pick up. I may have to be the Guinnea Pig on this one.
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hey boyz, street tuned the car with mase last night, its about 85% done, just gotta fiddle with the Lc-1 settings, a/f on idle and tune the driveability side, turns out i was running very lean compared to on the dyno, 12s-13s.....dangerous, this is mainly due to 2 reasons.
1. tuning on the dyno is much different from tuning on the streets, in my opinion, street tuning is the way to go and a dyno should just be a tool for base line numbers and a rough figure on where you are at.
2. when i was tuned i was tuned with a downpipe that was pretty much broken from day1. with the new dp, the air flow is MUCH better there for leaning me out, so my advice to all of you is get your monitoring gauges first b4 any other mods cuz thats what will save you.ie Lc-1, even an areoforce is a good tool aswell, also get all your desired bolts ons then tune for them, but dont get on it before you are tuned, be smart and hammer the car when everything is working together properly.
If your tuned and start adding bolt ons with out a retune, depending on the mod, it can run you a lil lean to dangerously lean, something to think about here.
We did a numerous amount of 3 gear pulls on the highway, we fixed the a/f by adding about 4to 5% of fuel up top, this also cured the spark blow out issues completely due to the fact that before i didnt have enough fuel to ignite the spark in the higher rpms, with the added spark dwell up top its even better for a fool proof setup without overworking the coil packs. Mase also eliminated the knock that was occuring.
My Lc-1 set up includes a toggle switch under the hood an has 2 settings, switch left and the car drives like it would stock with fans coming on at 91 degrees, switch it to the right position and fans are on 90 percent of the time, this allows more cooling of the engine on track days in the line and down the strip and keeps iat2s lower aswell when street tuning, my coolant temp never passed 81 in this mode at wot, when it did if the fans where on, sometimes its hard to hear the fans, if they did turn off its due to them being timed.
Note! On the fan on mode, you may get an check engine light due to the fact the now that we are using the stock o2 bung up on the exhaust manifold and the LC-1 connections on teh ac senor may confuse the comp, no worries because they are not performance affecting codes and if the cel does come on clear it and proceed, when finished tuning or draging just switch the swtich over , the fans are back to the regular desired setting for stock setting and your good to go.
The Lc-1 is much more advanced than the standard aem due to the fact the Lc-1 can actually control your fueling and you can set up many different parameters from the software given and load it in, this part we still have to look at and see the best set up for my car, mase did a bang up job on the car and as the days go on we will learn more on my car tuning wise since he has alot of free time these days:P
my idle goin from a gear to a stop still fluctuates from time to time, note its much better with the new downpipe, this is due to a larger/more free flowing exhaust and no tuning of the pe tables are done yet, once that is done it should be that much smoother, cliff this may be your issue.
On a side not goin home i had a dude blwo by me in an older extremley loud v8, i had no idea what it was, i caught up to him in no time with out downshifting, i rolled beside him and ofcourse his gf was giving me the look where she wants to sit on my face, i guess he didnt like that so he mashed it, well so did i
can you say foot ball fields, hahahaha, i checked my a/f just before i shut it down, i was at 11.4 in the upper rpms, not at redine so thats good![Smile](https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
and as i was goin, traffic was approaching so i made a quick lane change and blew by this vete, i bet i woke him up haha.
anyways as the tuning goes on ill keep you posted on the progress, i seem to be the ginny pig on the tuning side of eveything lol, all good though, you learn something new every day and its fun
im at work now and i wanna go home, sorry for the novel, just though u guys might of found this interesting![Smile](https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
we took some pics of the install process on the swtich mase was working on, and the setup, mase post those suckers!:P
also, mase feel free to chime in on here if i missed something.
my dual pass setup should be in soon along side with a cobra heat exchanger, gonna compare temps and see if any additional tuning can be done there, does it ever end? LMAO
1. tuning on the dyno is much different from tuning on the streets, in my opinion, street tuning is the way to go and a dyno should just be a tool for base line numbers and a rough figure on where you are at.
2. when i was tuned i was tuned with a downpipe that was pretty much broken from day1. with the new dp, the air flow is MUCH better there for leaning me out, so my advice to all of you is get your monitoring gauges first b4 any other mods cuz thats what will save you.ie Lc-1, even an areoforce is a good tool aswell, also get all your desired bolts ons then tune for them, but dont get on it before you are tuned, be smart and hammer the car when everything is working together properly.
If your tuned and start adding bolt ons with out a retune, depending on the mod, it can run you a lil lean to dangerously lean, something to think about here.
We did a numerous amount of 3 gear pulls on the highway, we fixed the a/f by adding about 4to 5% of fuel up top, this also cured the spark blow out issues completely due to the fact that before i didnt have enough fuel to ignite the spark in the higher rpms, with the added spark dwell up top its even better for a fool proof setup without overworking the coil packs. Mase also eliminated the knock that was occuring.
My Lc-1 set up includes a toggle switch under the hood an has 2 settings, switch left and the car drives like it would stock with fans coming on at 91 degrees, switch it to the right position and fans are on 90 percent of the time, this allows more cooling of the engine on track days in the line and down the strip and keeps iat2s lower aswell when street tuning, my coolant temp never passed 81 in this mode at wot, when it did if the fans where on, sometimes its hard to hear the fans, if they did turn off its due to them being timed.
Note! On the fan on mode, you may get an check engine light due to the fact the now that we are using the stock o2 bung up on the exhaust manifold and the LC-1 connections on teh ac senor may confuse the comp, no worries because they are not performance affecting codes and if the cel does come on clear it and proceed, when finished tuning or draging just switch the swtich over , the fans are back to the regular desired setting for stock setting and your good to go.
The Lc-1 is much more advanced than the standard aem due to the fact the Lc-1 can actually control your fueling and you can set up many different parameters from the software given and load it in, this part we still have to look at and see the best set up for my car, mase did a bang up job on the car and as the days go on we will learn more on my car tuning wise since he has alot of free time these days:P
my idle goin from a gear to a stop still fluctuates from time to time, note its much better with the new downpipe, this is due to a larger/more free flowing exhaust and no tuning of the pe tables are done yet, once that is done it should be that much smoother, cliff this may be your issue.
On a side not goin home i had a dude blwo by me in an older extremley loud v8, i had no idea what it was, i caught up to him in no time with out downshifting, i rolled beside him and ofcourse his gf was giving me the look where she wants to sit on my face, i guess he didnt like that so he mashed it, well so did i
![Smile](https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smile](https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
and as i was goin, traffic was approaching so i made a quick lane change and blew by this vete, i bet i woke him up haha.
anyways as the tuning goes on ill keep you posted on the progress, i seem to be the ginny pig on the tuning side of eveything lol, all good though, you learn something new every day and its fun
![Smile](https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smile](https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
we took some pics of the install process on the swtich mase was working on, and the setup, mase post those suckers!:P
also, mase feel free to chime in on here if i missed something.
my dual pass setup should be in soon along side with a cobra heat exchanger, gonna compare temps and see if any additional tuning can be done there, does it ever end? LMAO
Last edited by distillion; 05-03-2007 at 08:27 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Mike no more coffee's for you man
that **** gets you wired to write
We need to tune your VE tables, then do your wot again.. and yea you're the new tuning gunnie pig. My car's still fucked even after the gasket swap
But that's just gives me a reason to port the head, pistons, rods, custom water to air lower intake manifold and this turbo!
The LC1 is the **** cause it goes into your stock O2 bung and simulates it while still giving you a wideband output (not having a wideband is one of the main reasons why my engine popped). Then you can hook up the LC1 to your AC pressure sensor so you can log it in HPT. But another befinit is you can make you fans turn on when you install the switch.
![Nono](https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/images/smilies/nono.gif)
![lol](https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
We need to tune your VE tables, then do your wot again.. and yea you're the new tuning gunnie pig. My car's still fucked even after the gasket swap
![Bye](https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/images/smilies/bye.gif)
But that's just gives me a reason to port the head, pistons, rods, custom water to air lower intake manifold and this turbo!
The LC1 is the **** cause it goes into your stock O2 bung and simulates it while still giving you a wideband output (not having a wideband is one of the main reasons why my engine popped). Then you can hook up the LC1 to your AC pressure sensor so you can log it in HPT. But another befinit is you can make you fans turn on when you install the switch.
Last edited by Mase; 05-11-2007 at 11:56 AM.