:No Flaming Allowed: Drag racing season
Here's some advice nobody has given you. This is based on my experience over 2 years of season long racing with the SS/SC. This was stock tune, pulley, axles, clutch, etc. The first year I ran street tires. The second year I ran Hoosier slicks.
1) Adjust your tire pressure to maximize grip. I would lower my front tires to about 26psi, and the up the rear's to 40-45psi.
2) Pre-load you drivetrain when at the tree. It'll help reduce shock to the various components, including the axles.
3) Everybody has a particular way to launch. I would do it from idle, and slip the clutch when launching. On street tires I was seeing 2.2-2.3 60 foot times.
4) If you start hopping, ease off the accelerator gradually until the hopping stops, then you should be able to get back into it. Worst case scenario, you have to ease back into the accelerator.
5) If you get nervous at the track, put on some music to help you out.
1) Adjust your tire pressure to maximize grip. I would lower my front tires to about 26psi, and the up the rear's to 40-45psi.
2) Pre-load you drivetrain when at the tree. It'll help reduce shock to the various components, including the axles.
3) Everybody has a particular way to launch. I would do it from idle, and slip the clutch when launching. On street tires I was seeing 2.2-2.3 60 foot times.
4) If you start hopping, ease off the accelerator gradually until the hopping stops, then you should be able to get back into it. Worst case scenario, you have to ease back into the accelerator.
5) If you get nervous at the track, put on some music to help you out.
Here's some advice nobody has given you. This is based on my experience over 2 years of season long racing with the SS/SC. This was stock tune, pulley, axles, clutch, etc. The first year I ran street tires. The second year I ran Hoosier slicks.
1) Adjust your tire pressure to maximize grip. I would lower my front tires to about 26psi, and the up the rear's to 40-45psi.
2) Pre-load you drivetrain when at the tree. It'll help reduce shock to the various components, including the axles.
3) Everybody has a particular way to launch. I would do it from idle, and slip the clutch when launching. On street tires I was seeing 2.2-2.3 60 foot times.
4) If you start hopping, ease off the accelerator gradually until the hopping stops, then you should be able to get back into it. Worst case scenario, you have to ease back into the accelerator.
5) If you get nervous at the track, put on some music to help you out.
1) Adjust your tire pressure to maximize grip. I would lower my front tires to about 26psi, and the up the rear's to 40-45psi.
2) Pre-load you drivetrain when at the tree. It'll help reduce shock to the various components, including the axles.
3) Everybody has a particular way to launch. I would do it from idle, and slip the clutch when launching. On street tires I was seeing 2.2-2.3 60 foot times.
4) If you start hopping, ease off the accelerator gradually until the hopping stops, then you should be able to get back into it. Worst case scenario, you have to ease back into the accelerator.
5) If you get nervous at the track, put on some music to help you out.
thats just a band aid, that will lead to frequent clutch replacement. mounts, axles, dr's, enjoy.
Stu, you know I have mad respect for you, but I'm going to arguing this a little. The arguement may seem a little out there at first, but give me a moment.
The coefficient of traction for rubber tires on various surfaces varies greatly. This is why VHT is used at race tracks. As we all know, A spinning wheel does not deliver useful power to the ground. The two factors which keep a wheel from spinning are the mass it carries and the traction available from the ground conditions. Since there is never 100 percent adhesion, the coefficient is always less than 1.0. The result of multiplying the weight on the drive axle times the coefficient of traction represents the maximum force which can be transmitted before the tire spins. It is worth noting that the only variable considered was the ground surface. Tire type, construction, tread style, or rubber compound were not given any consideration. Probably the reason for this is that the variations in the ground surface overwhelm any variation of tires in this matter.
Now, I know you are probably wondering what this has to do with a clutch, axles, mounts, etc. I believe it has everything to do with it, especially because the supercharger has no lag, unlike a turbocharger. We need to find ways to reduce amount of force being applied through traction on VHT prepared surfaces because their traction coefficient is greater than any other surface I am aware of. (I can post up coefficients for various surfaces if requested. I didn't bother this time because it is not relative to the OP.) This is why slipping the clutch on launch is good, however, all the way through the rpm range like Thought recommended is not smart and will quickly lead to part failure, as you indicated. I've witnessed a few LSJ owners glaze their clutches because they slipped them too high up into the rpm range. However, mine was fine, even with slicks. I just decided to upgrade because I wanted something stronger that would hold a little better, especially as I started adding power. My swap was only a personal decision, not because I had to.
The coefficient of traction for rubber tires on various surfaces varies greatly. This is why VHT is used at race tracks. As we all know, A spinning wheel does not deliver useful power to the ground. The two factors which keep a wheel from spinning are the mass it carries and the traction available from the ground conditions. Since there is never 100 percent adhesion, the coefficient is always less than 1.0. The result of multiplying the weight on the drive axle times the coefficient of traction represents the maximum force which can be transmitted before the tire spins. It is worth noting that the only variable considered was the ground surface. Tire type, construction, tread style, or rubber compound were not given any consideration. Probably the reason for this is that the variations in the ground surface overwhelm any variation of tires in this matter.
Now, I know you are probably wondering what this has to do with a clutch, axles, mounts, etc. I believe it has everything to do with it, especially because the supercharger has no lag, unlike a turbocharger. We need to find ways to reduce amount of force being applied through traction on VHT prepared surfaces because their traction coefficient is greater than any other surface I am aware of. (I can post up coefficients for various surfaces if requested. I didn't bother this time because it is not relative to the OP.) This is why slipping the clutch on launch is good, however, all the way through the rpm range like Thought recommended is not smart and will quickly lead to part failure, as you indicated. I've witnessed a few LSJ owners glaze their clutches because they slipped them too high up into the rpm range. However, mine was fine, even with slicks. I just decided to upgrade because I wanted something stronger that would hold a little better, especially as I started adding power. My swap was only a personal decision, not because I had to.
i understand your point completely, let me clarify my own. i didnt mean to completely eliminate clutch slip from the equation. that would be ridiculous. i meant using the clutch to make up for the fact you are wheel-hopping, spinning, or both to much on a poor suspension setup (read: stock), is not the best solution. see what im trying to say?
Well, now what do we do? The only threads that seem to remain going in this forum are the ones where there is a pissing match. What controversial thing should we say next???? I know!
My flamesuit is better than all of yours. Drag racing sucks. Ovals rule. I live for right turns. Just kidding.
My flamesuit is better than all of yours. Drag racing sucks. Ovals rule. I live for right turns. Just kidding.
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