Drag Racing Kindle Racing and Dalcorp Racing

SS/TC traction combos

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Old May 11, 2011 | 11:55 AM
  #26  
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My 26" slick rubs on the bottom of the strut right there when they balloon out. As long as the chain was attached to top side of strut instead of bottom like yours, I can still probably pull that off.
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Old May 11, 2011 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by WSFrazier
My 26" slick rubs on the bottom of the strut right there when they balloon out. As long as the chain was attached to top side of strut instead of bottom like yours, I can still probably pull that off.
Skip Jones put his to the inside so it can be done.
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Old May 11, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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That's some crazy ****
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Old May 11, 2011 | 03:25 PM
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Also, if you guys don't want to use chains, you can buy limit strap kits. Some are steel cable, nylon, etc. Some are even adjustable.

Probably what I will do, and weld a connector to Control Arm instead of strut.
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Old May 11, 2011 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by WSFrazier
Also, if you guys don't want to use chains, you can buy limit strap kits. Some are steel cable, nylon, etc. Some are even adjustable.

Probably what I will do, and weld a connector to Control Arm instead of strut.
Alot of the kits use the cables off of a pickup truck tailgate.
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Old May 11, 2011 | 04:11 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by cmiller8006
Alot of the kits use the cables off of a pickup truck tailgate.
That too, it's funny you should say that. I was Advance Auto the other day getting spring bolts for my Honda exhaust, and saw tailgate cable kits. First thing I thought was, "weld a tab on the control arm and upper body, and these would be great limit straps on the Cobalt".
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Old May 11, 2011 | 04:26 PM
  #32  
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since we've got thick cast aluminum control arms wouldnt it be eaiser to put an eye loop on them and figure out where to mount the top piece that would be fairly easy to adjust wouldnt it?
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Old May 11, 2011 | 04:28 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by RoadconeTuning
since we've got thick cast aluminum control arms wouldnt it be eaiser to put an eye loop on them and figure out where to mount the top piece that would be fairly easy to adjust wouldnt it?
Yeah that was going be my 2nd resort, mostly because all the "kits" won't be able to be welded to aluminum.

I just don't like the idea of the loop possibly sliding around, but that can be fixed as well.
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 12:22 PM
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What size footballs do you use and does it matter if they are true leather?
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 12:54 PM
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 01:16 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by daregooch
What size footballs do you use and does it matter if they are true leather?
peewees, but I think cmiller squeezed in juniors. not sure if mine were leather but I got the cheap ones at walmart.
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 01:48 PM
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i'm currently looking for some extra small airbags for the rear so we dont have to cut bumpstops at all... i want to be able to run bags with the pedders springs.
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 01:04 AM
  #38  
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Lolwut?
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 04:54 AM
  #39  
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has anyone noticed a legitimate performance gain with putting those footballs in the rear?
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 06:25 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by raminator01
has anyone noticed a legitimate performance gain with putting those footballs in the rear?
As many others have said in this thread... yes. They help keep the rear end from squatting, which helps to keep the front end from lifting... keeping more weight/pressure on the front end... giving more traction. They're more commonly known as "Drag Bags". People use the footballs though, because its a lot cheaper than spending a hundred dollars on official "Drag Bags".




I roll on Hoosier DR's mounted to some cheap 16's. Good set-up for the street, which is where I do most all of my racing.







Wheels: http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...van&tmn=Five+X

DR's: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOO-17320/

Last edited by USMCFieldMP; Jul 10, 2011 at 06:36 AM.
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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USMC how far have you drove on those? It takes about 45 minutes to get to a weekly car meet and I can't do much there lol because of spinning.
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 06:37 PM
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I've only drove around town on them... but I put a couple hundred miles on them. I was running like 25psi in them, iirc.

Put them in your trunk. Change them out at a McD's before you get there.
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 07:17 PM
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by USMCFieldMP
I've only drove around town on them... but I put a couple hundred miles on them. I was running like 25psi in them, iirc.

Put them in your trunk. Change them out at a McD's before you get there.
That would be awsome. Or show up at the meet, and put it on jacks and swap them out. Oh the looks on peoples faces lol.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 03:53 AM
  #45  
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Exactly.

I probably would have never put them on, if it wasn't for some redneck with a Trans Am. He pulled into our weekend meet in Findlay with his Truck and trailered LS1 Trans Am on Slicks and Skinnies. Said he had just left Norwalk, so we asked what it ran... iirc, it was a Heads/Cam LS1 that ran 11.5 @ 110mph. Then he started talking all sorts of **** about how he'd whoop up on anything, anytime.

I'm leaning up against my VeeDub eating a pizza I'd just picked up, not really paying attention. I look up and everyone's looking at me going, "Go get your car, dude." Blah, blah, blah... we exchanged some words. I laughed and left to go get the Cobalt. Threw the DR's on it. Show back up to the meet, and he's gone.

I'm like, "WTF? What happened?" They said he started asking questions about my car, and didn't seem to like the answers he was getting, so he pussed out and said "he didn't want to lose his license." He drove by a week later with Truck and Trailer again. We were all waiting and I had the car still on the Hoosiers... he didn't pull in though.

So I raced a CBR600, instead.
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 10:11 PM
  #46  
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I have nt05s on my lnf and it just spins like crazy in 1st and all the way through 2nd.
I need some sort of 18" slicks, must of my racing is on the street btw.
Any recommendations?
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 10:12 PM
  #47  
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These could help

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/part...adials-255998/
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 10:29 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by USMCFieldMP
Exactly.

I probably would have never put them on, if it wasn't for some redneck with a Trans Am. He pulled into our weekend meet in Findlay with his Truck and trailered LS1 Trans Am on Slicks and Skinnies. Said he had just left Norwalk, so we asked what it ran... iirc, it was a Heads/Cam LS1 that ran 11.5 @ 110mph. Then he started talking all sorts of **** about how he'd whoop up on anything, anytime.

I'm leaning up against my VeeDub eating a pizza I'd just picked up, not really paying attention. I look up and everyone's looking at me going, "Go get your car, dude." Blah, blah, blah... we exchanged some words. I laughed and left to go get the Cobalt. Threw the DR's on it. Show back up to the meet, and he's gone.

I'm like, "WTF? What happened?" They said he started asking questions about my car, and didn't seem to like the answers he was getting, so he pussed out and said "he didn't want to lose his license." He drove by a week later with Truck and Trailer again. We were all waiting and I had the car still on the Hoosiers... he didn't pull in though.

So I raced a CBR600, instead.
I love it when people do that stuff.
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 04:24 PM
  #49  
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bump! whats the current consensus on best tire to throw on IRL wheels for an LNF?!
*EDIT*
answered my own post... just emailed MT Tech about how safe the MC Slicks are

Last edited by RoadconeTuning; Jul 26, 2011 at 05:06 PM.
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 08:46 AM
  #50  
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just got an email back from Mickey Thompson in regards to motorcycle slicks on cars....

Kyle,
Thank you very much for your interest in Mickey Thompson’s ET Drag products!
The biggest difference between the Part #3221 26.0/7.0-17 ET Drag Motorcycle tire and a standard automotive ET Drag tire is the bead contour which is actually quite critical. The typical automotive tire uses a J(ISO) bead contour while a typical motorcycle tire, like the 3221 uses a MT bead contour. That being said, it is very unsafe to mount the 3221 on an automotive rim and run it on an automobile.
That being said, we have be spending the last six months developing a “For Automotive Use Only” version of the 26.0/7.0-17 just for automotive applications.
The tire will be basically the same dimensions of the 3221 however it will feature the J(ISO) bead contour some slight construction revisions which will yield a more favorable tread profile for automotive applications.
Please stay tuned for an ETA on this new product!

Thread on EvolutionM.net: Mickey Thompson 17" Bias-Ply Drag Slick for Evolutions, etc. - evolutionm.net

Ben Anderson
Assistant Product Development Manager
Mickey Thompson Tires
4600 Prosper Drive
Stow, OH 44224
(800)222-9092 Ext:: 3120
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