Well i just had my new TOB installed, now im hearing a clucking noise when im idle with clutch de-pressed. When pressed in or driving it goes away. Shifts fine, dont notice any side affects. I have Spec Stage 2 with a fidenza flywheel. Any ideas?

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1PvdMPbffA

bump

bump, guess no 1 has had this problem

 

anyone?

 

sound like the metal plate that is attached to the trans housing that can rub against the flywheel upon reassembly if it is not clearanced upon reinstallation....the plate is a strap, it is visibile from behind the transmission if you look forward from behind the steering rack with the car on a hoist....imho

 

that dosent sound good at all.....

 

Bump anyone else?

 

Mine kind of sounds like that, but not near that loud though. But mine sounds like that because my clutch is a DFX 6-puck and my noise is just the clutch chattering. At least I'm pretty sure it is.

 

bump

 

There is No metal spacer plate on the 2.2L cars....

 

I have a 2.0 and it sounds like i have the same issuse. the guy at my dealership that rebuilt mine said it could be the flywheel weights

 

Does the noise get worse when you bring the RPMs up? Does the noise change when you start lifting the clutch up when in neutral? Mine did the similar noise so I dropped the transmission and check everything out, changed the slave/throwout bearing again and put it back together. Fired it up and it still did it. So I revved the **** out of it and it eventually went away. I pumped the clutch and revved the car to around 6000rpm and just kept alternating the rpms. The only thing I can thing of it being it since throwout bearings are self aligning, they need to adjust over time.

 

Did you replace the throw out barring or just put the clutch in? I have the spec stage 3+ and the fidenza flywheel and I had that same problem.....NOW since i only replace the throwout barring and the slave cylinder and didn't replace the master cylinder I have no gears!!!!...I now have to replace the slave,clutch master cylinder throw out barring 1and2nd gear syncros and the shift rods and forks...When you replace the clutch and flywheel you should replace the throw out barring/slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder.........

 

i have never heard anyone say the master needs to be changed during a clutch install....

 

guess all you missed my first post about my clutch problems...yes i have changed my TOB to a new one prior to install.

 

i guess i did not know it was not an LSJ oh well video is tough to diagnose so too bad so sad let us know what it turns out to be!

 

Well when I replaced the TOB a little after I started driving IE...2/3 months, when I race or give my car hell I can feel the clutch pedel dropping to the ground losing presure and shifting gets real hard, the clutch gets hard as a rock and i have to sit there and keep pushing the clutch in the make it smooth again?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?! HELL IF I KNOW, so i'm just replacing everything!~!!!!! IF ANYONE KNOWS WHAT COULD BE WRONG I'M ALL EARS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

You only have to replace the throw out bearing and slave cylinder when doing the clutch. You should not have to replace the master cylinder. If you let all the fluid drain out of the master cylinder though you will probably have to bench bleed it.

 

as soon as I get done learning about the tranny at school and work I am rebuilding it

 

Ok well I have replaced the TOB, Bleed the clutch......It got to the point where it was hard to put it into second and it would grind....Finally I lost all gears and thats where i'm at now....I'm waiting for my friend to pull the tranny out and look at it.....But something is really wrong with the clutch losing pressure....it doesn't make sense?!?!?!?!....my other friend has the same set up i'v got and he didn't replace the TOB and has had no problems?

 

You have the wrong TOB...i went through the SAME exact problem...you need to order the OEM from dealer. At first it was nice after a few shifts it was lower to ground then the engage point was basicly the floor and getting into first was impossible unless you pump the **** out of the clutch.

 

mine does that at times and its stock

 

again..its teh TOB. go buy a new OEM one.

 

I have one that i bought from GM for 119.00...this will be the second one i have purchased, also what about me not having any gears or gates?? I think I broke a shift rod!!!.....Also I just read this from a guy selling a cobalt on e-bay______ I live in CT and I'm in the Navy, I have a SUNBURST ORANGE 2006 G85 with more upgrades then possibly imagined! The car only has 17,500 miles and Blue books for $20,565. It is the top of the line model, with Perreli P-zero's with 85% life! It's never been beat upon I am a grown-up and this is my daily driver. I did all of the upgrades to improve gas milage and anyone with a highly modded cobalt will vouch to that. I get around 36 MPG in the city and 40 on the highway!

Modds: Pacesetter longtube header, specialy made 3" catless down pipe wich mates to 2.5" catback with flowmaster 40 series and stock tip. Supercharger was ported and polished by Ultimate240 and coupled to a 2.7 ZZP modular pulley system. this is super cooled with a Ultimate240 meth kit and a 60gph injector. also to quinch the engines thirst it is fed with 60lbh injectors. All where brought togather at SMG motorsports and tuned by the man him self! It made to the wheels 283whp and 266ftlb, this is more then the C5 Corvette!!! Hints the increadible gas milage.

There is a 5 year 100,000 mile drivetrain warrenty and 3 year 36,000 mile standard GM warrenty, all transferable upon transfer of ownership. I am the cobalt's second owner I bought it in aug 07 from the dealership's owner.

Looks: HID'S from ZZP that look spectacular and set off the sunburst orange at dusk!It made to the wheels 283whp and 266ftlb, this is more then the C5 Corvette!!! Hints the increadible gas milage.<~~~~~~Thats funny

 

Lmao he made a thread here yesterday with the same **** in it

 

i have the exact same problem as the guy who started this thread, but the TOB that came from SPEC is the wrong one? also, i currently have a spec stage 2 with an oem flywheel but my last clutch was a stage 1 with an oem flywheel and it did the same thing.....and a buddy of mine with a 350z has the same ticking sound with his stage 3 clutch....im just wondering if it could be that the TOBs are just more noisy than OEM....but the pedal losing pressure sucks....