08 LNF with ~56k miles, I am the second owner

At 53k miles clutch started slipping badly, ordered a Southbend S4 to replace it. When the trans was pulled realized the car already had a Southbend S4 in it but the friction material was toast. Installed the new Southbend S4 clutch and after 2k miles the hub of the clutch disk exploded, sending pieces everywhere. Bought a KY S3+ and installed it but now when at idle, clutch depressed to the floor, and in gear there is a distinct rubbing noise. If the clutch pedal is brought up maybe .5"-1" from the floor it goes away.

New slave was used with each clutch install, new clutch pipe, new flywheel, etc.

It seems like the slave is over extending but I have no explanation for why. MC rod doesn't appear to be bent.

Is my only solution fabbing up some sort of stop?

 

It does sound a little like it is over extending. ZZP makes an adjustable clutch rod, check it out.

 

should have mentioned, it's an HHR - adjustable clutch rod doesn't work for me

 

if you end up having to use a stop i would talk to John Powell about what he did, they had to add a stop to the time attack car when they took the carpet out

 

Well I did more testing and noticed two things. It does make the noise if not in gear and clutch pressed down to floor, it is not as loud so I only noticed it when the car was in the garage. Second thing I noticed is the car won't start if I only push the clutch to point where it disengaged but not to the floor so the incomplete travel affects the clutch sensor.

Based on the clutch sensor issue I don't think a stop is going to help. I'm contemplating trying to put some sort of a spacer on the MC rod, hoping that limits the rod travel without affecting the clutch sensor

 

ZZP now sells a TOB spacer, that might solve your problem.

 

I would think the spacer would make it worse. I need to reduce the travel of the TOB. The spacer is more for high rate pressure plates which require more force to disengage

 

You could always add a pedal stop and move the starter interlock switch a little bit to compensate. Seems better than trying to space the rod, which has to be perfectly solid and still pivot.

 

If you make a stop for it use a bolt and nut so you can ajust the hight to dial it in just right

 

Agree....just hadnt looked at clutch sensor in detail to see how easy it will be to move, guess that is next on the list.

Appreciate all the help....I'm open to ideas on what to use for the stop?

 

Did you ever sort out the issue? Having exact same one here with a Stage 3+ on a LNF - adjustable clutch rod did nothing.