So I'm buying my new clutch soon, what other parts do I need for the job? I heard a new slave cylinder? I may get a new flywheel but will I need anything else other than that? gaskets? new bolts?

 

You will just need to get yourself some fluid. You have to buy in the case through GM. I can get you the part number tues when i go to work.

 

Trans fluid, brake fluid, if you replace the flywheel, new flywheel bolts are recommended. Replace the clutch pipe, the line coming out of the slave going to the case of the transmission. It's a cheap part and will save you a lot of headache later on.

 

-replace the clutch
-replace the slave
-replace the slave pipe
-have the flywheel surfaced, or replace it (never put a new clutch on an unmachined flywheel, it will chatter)
-replace the flywheel bolts, they are torque to yield and are designed to be used once and thrown away
-pick up 2l of new fluid for the tranny, see owners manual for the part number
-get a small bottle of D.O.T. 3 brake fluid
-make sure you have a can of brake clean and clean rags on hand (need to clean flywheel and pressure plate, very important)

 

You can use Red Line MTL-85 if you can't find the GM LNF fluid. It's GL4, no LSD additives like the OEM fluid and the same viscosity. I ran it for a year and liked it just fine. DO NOT use Royal Purple, GL-5 or any LSD fluid. The Diff is a sealed unit and the tranny fluid never gets into it.

 

actually, fluid does get inside the diff, however you dont require limited slip friction modifier because we dont have a clutch style diff, its a torsen style. ther are no friction elements in our lsd, and nothing to cause a clutch chatter while cornering.

 

Thanks, I've never messed with transmission stuff so this is all new to me...

so no gaskets?

more questions-

-where do I get the slave and slave pipe?
-where do I get the flywheel bolts? and how many do I need?

 

there is a trans axle gasket on the f35 trans. i think that the slave pipe comes with the new slave cylinder. You are going to need 6 or 8 flywheel bolts. can on zzp's website and click on your car and they will have the stuff that they carry. get the gm flywheel bolts. They are 38 bucks for all of them.

 

Also, are there any tools that the average garage may not have that I'll need...I have access to a lift, jacks, and all that fun stuff...basically are there any T bolts or anything of that sort that it would behoove me to buy?

I'm going with OEM flywheel bolts due to the lack of knowledge on the ARP studs working, but what is the difference in the OEM and the Fidanza flywheels, I'm assuming weight but what does less weight do for you?

also, is there such thing as a "step-up" clutch master cylinder, like a better one, if I'm gonna replace I might as well go big while I'm at it...

 

you dont need to change your master cylinder unless its leaking. the slave cylinder you need to change for 2 reasons. first, the slave incorperates the release bearing, and every time you change a clutch you need to replace the bearing. second, its a real pain taking your tranny back out to change a slave cylinder that starts leaking shortly after you jut put a new clutch in.

the upside to arp flywheel bolts is they are not one time use. gm bolts are torque to yield (meaning you torque them and then tighten them x amount of degrees more) and must be discarded after one use. being most cobalt owners will only ever to a clutch once in their car, just go with oem bolts. there are 8 of them in the 2.0l sc/tc cars.

there are a couple tools you need to make sure you have. you will need basic sockets and wrenches, torque wrench, etc. however you will also need a couple of more odd things. once, you will need a torque angle gauge so you can correctly torque the flywheel. im not sure about the tc cars, but the sc uses inverted torx bolts to attach the pressure plate to the flywheel. pick up a cheap set of those sockets, you arent going to use them much in your life, just some odd gm stuff and if you for some reason decide to work on european stuff.

 

Sharkey got it 100%. If you dont have an angle torque wrench or adaptor, torque the bolt then mark with a sharpie the bolt position and the socket and move the bolt + one flat of the hex head.= the correct degrees. A tip from MAVEN he gave me ,works awesome when my super dooper Snap on 600 dollar digital angle finding torque wrench screws up - most days it seems

 

thats generally what i do on flywheel bolts as a torque angle gauge is hard to use on a flywheel.

its funny, my snap on dealer has worked so hard to sell me a tech wrench (digital torque wrench with torque to yield and other cool features) and i just wont bite cause to me it seems like too much to go wrong. ill stick to my $400 snap on click type.

 

The difference from oem and after market is going to be less weight. Less weight is always a plus because its less weight on that rotating assembly.