2 nd time Master Cylinder has gone out in 6 months or 18,000 miles.
Parts are cheaper than stock. (185dollars) Problem? Stage 3 Clutch 350hp approx.
Anybody else mounted a aftermarket Master Cylinder.

 

what throw out bearing are you running? Stock LSJ?

 

have you tried an LNF TOB, ive heard the quality is superior to LSJ TOBs

 

12 month warranty he stated not surprised since the Part is a DAEWOO not chevy part.

 

Since it was the second one to go in I found that the heavy use had weakened the firewall and I actually pushed the M/C threw the firewall. I am now proceeding to put in the wilwood aftermarket clutch M/C and new pedal as well. Almost done in 2hrs but will have to rework the tubing connections and hose will be stainless. We are having to remanufacture the connection of the pedal mounting and rewire the two switches that are attached. When I am done it will be interesting to see if the clutch feel and operation will be any different.

 

mine just went out and im in utah haha

 

It is not easy to go aftermarket pedal and stand alone master cylinder.
You have to reinforce the firewall first to withstand the aftermarket master cylinder because it has way more flex on the firewall.
I got right at 30,000 miles on each master cylinder after stage 3 clutch.
will sell master cylinder for 150.00 freight paid to anywhere in the USA.

 

haha i have insurance with a 50$ deductable and it covers everything. im gettn a new tensioner too because pulleys are covered and the stock one is squeeky now

 

I had it towed twice in two weeks. that paid off.
second tow was for a blown head gasket because when we put the new mc in we forgot to hook up one water line.

 

quick question...

how does it feel when it goes bad? like wat happens?

how do u know when it goes bad. noob at this so bear with me

 

you have trouble getting it into gears. my just had that happen but it was a pin on the tanny

 

oh ok... should it be replaced when doing a clutch job?

 

honestly i have no idea but just check the pin. and make sure its in good condition, its a 3$ part

 

No resistance at all. The seals in the mc just give up.
Note changing to aftermarket mc is not easy. Have to reinforce the firewall for starters.
Changing the pedal wasn't all that bad.

 

Well my clutch pedal is normal and then all of a sudden its soft untill the end where it gets hard to push it in the last 2 inches or so.. And then will go back to normal after a while. Which is why I ask what happens when it goes out

 

If it is broken it won't come back. Thus probably another problem with bleeding or air in the line etc. Power bleed which is required to bleed these things. Then see what you have.

 

didnt know that I did it the old way... Pump and hold then open the blleeder valve andd repeat but didnt help. I figured I might as well do a clutch job sincce it slips. And have them look around while there in there. Parts. Are already ordered..... Came in here to see if this was my problem but I dont think it is since the pedal comes back up like normal

 

I do have a brand new mc never used but did install for 10 min when I pushed it through the firewall since the firewall was so weakened from stage 3 clutch.
I can almost guranteed that you do not have a complete bleed on your clutch.

 

your probably right.... But idk stock clutch still slips before this started happening wich is why I already ordered the parts just want to make sure I check and change everyting while its down... Ii dont like having to go back anddo it all over... And so it doesnt have air after the install ill make sure and remind the shop to power bleed it. Though they shuldd do it anyways

 

what master cylinder did you use i have a stage 4 clutch having problems with the oem being to weak to disingauge it i put a steal braided line on it its drive able now but still not right

 

That post was form 14 years ago. Make a new post with your issue. Also I bet your issue is not the CMC, it's probably your slave/TOB