It has, over the past couple of days, been very hard to get the shifter into any gear. Almost like I'm about to grind a gear, I can start to move the shifter into whatever gear then I really have to muscle it in.

It seems like after the car warms up it's easier to switch gears at lower rpm, but the problem is terrible after running up into high rpm. All I can do is leave it in neutral until the revs drop, then push it into gear.

I recently got a new clutch (near the end of the break in period), and I'm not sure how correlated this could be. YES I am compensating for the lower pedal and pushing it all the way to the floor.


I really don't know much about transmissions, and my car is at 60k. Is a transmission oil change in my near future? Is my clutch messing something up? Something else?

On a side note no odd sound is being made and it has been much colder over the last month (down in the teens) than my car has ever seen before.

 

Its most likely the cold. I would get a fluid change ASAP though, Try and get the 08-10 fluid that the LNF cars use, if you cant get any just use fresh stock stuff (21018899)

 

sure enough today is about 60* and it seems fine, I'm changing fluid within the week and going form there.

Thanks man

 

what shifter do you have? If it's a stock shifter, then you may need an adjustment.

 

my car does it too.. its an lnf with 18k miles...

it only happens 1st and reverse from a stand still though... i dont know why..

 

synchros have a lot of work to do under those conditions. especially from first startup. Shifting into another gear first briefly usually get things going easily.

 

Sounds like you have either a clutch engagement problem or a transmission issue.

Diagnose it by this:

1. With the car cold and the engine shut off, push in the clutch and shift through the gears.
Does it shift easily?
If yes, go to the next question.
If no, then you may have a linkage adjustment issue or the fluid may need to be changed

2. With the clutch still held down and the car in neutral, start the engine. Keep the clutch held down and shift through the gears again.
Is it harder to shift??
If yes, then you have a clutch engagement/drag issue. Could be air in the hydraulic line, a defective master or slave cylinder, or the improper clutch/flywheel for the car.
If no, then the problem is not likely a dragging clutch.

 

stock, but I doubt it's the linkages

Awesome, I'll try this. Are we talking slightly harder or would it be a large difference?

 

Your first test doesnt test fluid condition, and you dont need to press the clutch. A static shift test is going to help aid in diagnosing a shift assembly, shift rail/fork/synchronizer assembly issue.

Your second test does indeed aid in diagnosing clutch drag(regardless of cause) but it should be pointed out that noticeably different levels of shift effort from one gear compaer to another is rarely a clutch system concern. That and its incredibly unliley that the cause is that after 60k miles the car has the wrong clutch/flywheel.

That and the OP already posted that its weather dependant, so fluid is th likely cause.

 

I know that. I'm trying to rule out clutch drag as the problem. I said push the clutch because if the car is resting on an incline and there is a load on the transmission, that will make it harder to shift. By pushing the clutch in, that variable is ruled out.

He said he recently got a new clutch, but did not specify what kind or who installed it. Which is why I mentioned that.

In the second test, the effort between engine off and engine on should be identical, because the input shaft is not turning following that procedure. So any noticeable difference in shift effort indicates the clutch is dragging.

I agree that the fluid is likey the cause, but doing that test will at least rule out the clutch as a concern.

 

gmpp clutch installed by a local mechanic.

I tried the two tests, with no trouble shifting.

Like I said, it's warmer today and it seems a lot better. It could have also been that the clutch bled itself a little bit (iirc qwikredline said it was self bleeding to an extent).

Either way I haven't been able to wring out the rpms because of rain today, so I will try some quick high rpm shifting when I can and the weather is supposed to get colder later in the week. I'll be better able to correlate any problem with the possible cause better in the next couple of days.

Thanks for the help guys, if it comes back my first step is changing the transmission oil.

 

qft............................nctupperware is from where? NC? He dont know what cold is

Oh my redline shifts so sweet in this weather - like - 40 or whatever up in the frozen north.
lets see I can send you a piktar...

 

stop gloating

you've posted that pic like 20 times.

It got decently cold in Asheville over break, mid to low teens with windchill around 0... for the south anyways

 

oh migod did you wear a parka and build an igloo???

 

I tried making a snow house using a loaf pan to make bricks...

I found that my ability to have fun in snow has decreased from 10 hours straight when I was 10 to 30 minutes now that I'm 21

my car in the winter time:

 

its the right color - two tone blue and white lol
p.s. open the doors and put it in the barn....

 

Blue with white stripe, USA racing colors

 

reverse white with blue strip is USA racing colors. just sayin'

 

Barn= shed that is raised and too small for a car

 

I was always under the impression it could be used either way, and Jim Hall didnt even use the blue,.....but white on blue was always my favorite version. SEE: AAR Eagles, Corvette Grand Sport, Scarab.

 

You are right. See below. Chapparal was always my favorite and I didnt care about the blue stripe, those cars were awesome........................................... .......................


D Germany White Red Benz, Mercedes, BMW, Porsche
Silver (or bare metal (Silver Arrows)) Red Mercedes-Benz, Auto Union, Veritas, Borgward, EMW, Porsche, Audi

F France Blue (Bleu De France) White Delage, Bugatti, Talbot, Delahaye, Matra, Panhard, Alpine, Gordini, Ligier, Prost

GB Great Britain Green (British racing green) White Jaguar, Vanwall, Cooper, Lotus, Brabham, BRM, Bentley, Aston Martin

I Italy Red (Rosso corsa) White Alfa Romeo, Maserati, Lancia, Ferrari, Abarth, O.S.C.A., Officine Meccaniche

J Japan White with red "sun" Black Honda, Nissan, Toyota

USA USA White, Blue lengthwise stripes ("Cunningham racing stripes"), Blue underframe Blue Cunningham, Ford, NART, Shelby, Chaparral
Blue, White lengthwise stripes, White underframe White AAR Eagle, Ford, Shelby, Scarab