Drivetrain Transmission, LSD, Clutch, Driveline, Axles...

Looking to buy, have clutch questions

Old Mar 2, 2006 | 11:59 AM
  #1  
Cody_Richardson89's Avatar
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Joined: 03-02-06
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From: Bluford, Illinois
Looking to buy, have clutch questions

Hey im looking to buy a 2006 cobalt ss s/c and i was wondering a couple of things

1) is the clutch really that bad that it will need to be replaced or is it the driver or the flywheel causing the problem

and

2) this dosnt really apply, but how much boost are you guys running, i was test driving the other day and i was running almost 16 psi at full open throttle. Is that normal?

Thanks im new to the forums and all


*EDIT* I meant clutch on the title not cluth sry

Last edited by Cody_Richardson89; Mar 2, 2006 at 12:22 PM.
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 03:02 PM
  #2  
Pully Police's Avatar
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Joined: 02-05-06
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From: Kakabeka Falls, Ontario
Originally Posted by Cody_Richardson89
Hey im looking to buy a 2006 cobalt ss s/c and i was wondering a couple of things

1) is the clutch really that bad that it will need to be replaced or is it the driver or the flywheel causing the problem

and

2) this dosnt really apply, but how much boost are you guys running, i was test driving the other day and i was running almost 16 psi at full open throttle. Is that normal?

Thanks im new to the forums and all


*EDIT* I meant clutch on the title not cluth sry
Hi Cody,

IF you are going to drag race your cobalt, I would say that if you properly break-in your clutch (lots of stop and go...no high RPM launches...shift often...vary your speed) it will last for a short while.

IF you are just going to daily/spirited drive your cobalt, I would say that the clutch is plenty stout for that application...even with some mods. The key is to properly break in the clutch.....somthing even "expert" gearheads overlook. Glazing of the clutch disc causes lots of slipping which is why properly breaking in the clutch will "rough up" the disc surface and cause it to grab and hold torque with less help from the pressure plate. Most clutch slipping issues are due to the driver "stabbing" or "punching" the throttle and causing the load on the clutch to spike. The proper way to get to WOT is to "roll" on the throttle which smooths the transition from a low load to a high load on the clutch.

It is sort of the same idea that drag racers use with staged nitros....instead of injecting a 300 shot of nitros right off the start and throwing rubber all over the place...they inject a 150 shot and then there is a delay before the other 150 shot comes onilne to prevent the tries from breaking loose. The result is that the driver is still putting the same amount of power/torque down to the wheels but the delivery is delayed to allow for the car to pick up momentum before maxing the power and torque to the wheels.

Hope that helps


-P
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 11:02 PM
  #3  
Cody_Richardson89's Avatar
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Joined: 03-02-06
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From: Bluford, Illinois
sweet thank you, i read so many ppl complaining, i havnt bought my SS S/C yet, but i didnt want to replace the cluth/flywheel within the first.....................ever. But ya again thnx
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