I am thinking of going to buy a stock replacement clutch kit

Ecotec LNF Clutch Kit 24239996 - Crate Engine Depot

and the fidanza lightweight flywheel

Cobalt & Ion ---> ZZ Performance

anyone think that this is a good decision for a lnf looking to make like 310 / 340

should i also change the throw out bearing while im in there?? idk cuz the car only had 24k miles on it.

 

I'm in the market for a clutch also and all the mixed reviews is giving me a headache. Everyone has their own opinion when it comes to an aftermarket clutch for the LNF. Spec stage 3+ and the ZZP unit with aluminum flywheel is around $1200.

Part of me wants to do a stock clutch again...the other part of me is saying do it right the first time.

 

well i dont want to spend too much, and i feel like the stock clutch is great i just dont know how good the lightweight flywheel is

 

I wouldn't bother with the LWFW on an LNF, I did a year ago, (SPEC) but I wouldn't again.

You need a new clutch for 310/340? How many miles on it?

 

well i just dynoed at 290 332 and clutch was slipping and i only have 24k miles on it. despite the fact that it is all stop and go mostly since i live in NJ and went to school in newark.... the clutch should of held up. but i bought the car with 8k miles on it (it was a demo) and i am the first owner technically. but someone back in 08 must of taught their 4 year old daughter how to drive it or something.....

 

In my searches about clutches and flywheels i've read that you don't like the LWFW. What are some of your reasons? I'm close to buying one for my car along with a new clutch.

 

LW FW increases ECU detecting misfires, The ECU 'sees' any fast rotational changes as a misfire. No biggie, but I see 6-8 on an average commute in spots where Term or BYT may log only the random one or two.

Hard to start out on a daily driver compared to the stock FW and the engine/turbo were designed for the 45 lb. rotating whirlygig. I went with the SPEC FW to avoid having the stocker machined out for the dowel pins.

I really didn't notice any real gains in acceleration from having it. If there were any gains, the tires just let go sooner. lol.

Just my 2cents, save your $$$ IMO.

To the OP - I doubt your clutch is worn at all, mine wasn't when I replaced it.

With a tune you need more holding power. If you are going to change it, go with something that will hold 400+ torque.

I'm happy with the SPEC Stage2+ performance, I just don't think the LW FW is of any benefit on the LNF. Only issue is it will moan a bit when slipped starting out cold. Never slipped at 420+ ft/lb tq to the wheels.

Yes, replace the slave, it's cheap insurance while it's apart.

 

Clutchmaster stage 3 is $ 500

 

Get something better than stock if you managed to smoke the clutch in less than 30,000 miles. Although if the car was a demo I'll give you the benefit of the doubt.

Stop and go won't wear it out as quickly as you think, unless you're revving it up and slipping it all the time.

 

I'll ramble some more about my SPEC S2+.

I had issues with the engagement point when I had it installed by a reputable ASE shop. They assured me it was properly bled ect...ect...ect... It would drag a bit and engage very close to the floor.

I tolerated it until it was broken in thinking it would get better but when it didn't I got the ZZP adj rod. This helped the engagement point fine but when it got cold last fall it started dragging pretty badly.

I had tried to vac bleed the clutch several times with no improvement at all. I decided to manually bleed it and I found that I had broken the clutch rod fingers in the master cyl when I installed the rod, so I could not pull the pedal up after pushing it down with the bleeder open. 1 week and a new MC and NO ZZP rod, I bled it manually from the top of the clutch housing and NO MORE ISSUES with the engagement point or any dragging. That was around 5 months ago.

Most clutch install issues are airbound systems IMO.

 

With a clutch replacement do you need new flywheel bolts and if so how many?

Any other recommendations?

 

I reused mine because I didn't know better at the time. I believe it's 8, and they are torque to yield so I would replace them. I believe ZZP sells upgraded ones.

 

I am going to try that KY clutch its good for 420hp+

 

I bought arp ones from zzp. 58 ftlbs is the torque if you get them. That's with arp ultra torque lube. Those are not tty. The stockers are though. Either or is a good choice.

 

well the reason i wanted to get hte LW FW was because it is cheaper than our stock one... i just wanted to slap a 160$ oem clutch kit and didnt want to keep the orig flywheel with out knowing if it was warped from heat. Unless there is a place where i can get my flywheel cut or send in my core or something its not worth spending 600$ on.

 

They can be resurfaced.

 

resurface flywheel
buy spec stage 3 clutch 534 on thmotorsports

 

Ya resurfacing it shouldn't be too costly, most machine shops do it. When i resurfaced the flywheel in my rx-7, It only cost like $50 bucks and it had a few dowel pins in it.

 

ok so that looks like its what i am going to do... right now there is a 4% off on the spec 3 clutch kit so i may just buy it now... anyone ever see it for less than it is with the 4% off?

 

does anyone have the dimensions of the center hole in the flywheel... i need to know to measure the brake lathe i have to cut it on.

 

ky clutch has wut yuh got and its by far the cheapest but best quality part for your cash. Roughly 350-400 depending on clutch. I was there test car hint hint No i dont work for them and no i dont get paid for telling them to you guys but i do get the thumbs up from everyone that drives my car and all it blows is trannys now and not clutches. Two sets of clutchmasters stage 4 6 puck double sprung twin sided ceramic. Ky clutch can make you a drivability clutch, a stocker, ect anything, kevlar, ceramic anything.

 

screw it... i ordered the spec stage 3 and im gonna resurface the flywheel.... i hope this is a good clutch kit

 

my lsj blew it up so i hope you have better luckbro.

 

I hope you got the 3+ the 3 has given mixed results

 

If you're not looking for more power than than, then i would say the stock clutch is fine