I installed a new throw-out bearing with my new stage 4 clutch from ZZP about 4000km ago and the throw-out bearing is done already. Can hardly get it into first and reverse from a stand still, once moving it is okay to drive.

 

Have you tried bleeding it?

Pull off the inspection cover and look at the slave cylinder, have someone press the clutch pedal fully, you should get about 8mm of movement on the actuator

 

i read your sig nice mods, the ls4 tb and the zzp cltuch would make launches difficult...no disrespect do you leave your foot on the clutch pedal much? or put another way do you know where the dead pedal is ? lol

 

Am I the only other person to have experienced this very problem? I bet that when you pull the bearing off you will see that the boot from the slave cylinder completely popped off around the bearing. It's not your fault. It's just not strong enough. Even worse, I have not been able to locate an upgrade. However, I have not had the problem since installing a new one. However, I have to make sure that I completely press the clutch in to the floor before shifting. I have the Spec stage 3+ clutch and aluminum flywheel. I've had my clutch bled about 3 or 4 times since the repair to make sure nothing else is wrong. Everybody comes back saying the same thing: "It's fine." Maybe stage 4 was a bit overkill, but I don't know its holding capabilities.

Stage 4, it doesn't really matter. Resting the foot on the clutch pedal does not apply enough force to do anything when you are talking about the holding power of the pressure plate. I'm sure it's double-sprung, at the minimum. Regardless, you are correct that it shouldn't be done, ever.

 

The green sleeve on the actuator doesnt reall affect operation, LNFs dont even have them at all.

 

I was wondering if they are interchangeable.

 

The LNF actuator has 10% more travel, so you need to make sure your clutch can handle that.

 

Well I thought I had a scare. You always think the worst and I thought my TOB went bad from the Exedy. I just had my engine rebuilt by GM and the fucktards didn't bleed the system for ****. Put the vacumn bleeder on there and fixed the problem. I didn't want to tear the tranny off again.

 

the reason you should not ride the clutch is that it spins the CSC bearing all the time, it overheats, and fails the bearing, the spring, the plastic sleeve and the rest of the CSC parts...the clutch dont care much unless its slipping because the clutch riding unloads the diaphragm

 

Ya, I'm the same "vintage" as John, and I was taught 40+ years ago never to ride the clutch because it destroys the throw out bearing.

I am not familiar with FWD clutch linkage adjustments etc, (and may be talking through my hat,) but is it possible the linkage exerted just enough pressure to spin the bearing all of the time?

 

10-4 you were taught just fine. There is no free play adjustment, the hydraulic ConcentricSlaveCylinder on the Cobalt are self adjusting as is the clutch diaphragm, which has fingers that are preloaded in a press prior to installation, and then release to adjust after installation upon first clutch pedal depression