Time to upgrade to bigger axels. Broke on stock tires 1.9 60fts
Originally Posted by ENUFPWR
Which clutch do you have Pat?
Ya, right now you have some drivetrain loss....clutch is slipping a little, tires aren't gripping fully....., but once you start putting the power to the ground and remove those variables... **** breaks....
Ya, right now you have some drivetrain loss....clutch is slipping a little, tires aren't gripping fully....., but once you start putting the power to the ground and remove those variables... **** breaks....
pshhhhhh!
you wanna talk drivetrain loss....then lets talk!!!
also ROB a group buy on them axels sounds good if we can do somethin like that.
Originally Posted by Bad06SS
Sorry to hear about your break. Sounds like we need to organize a group purchase on upgraded axles!
Last edited by ENUFPWR; Jul 10, 2006 at 10:41 AM.
Same friggin thing happened to me, i feel for you. Luckily, it sounds like you have the $$ to upgrade to aftermarket. I will probably do that once my warranty expires. Untill then, i am going to baby my car.
Originally Posted by 2K5SS/SC?
Did the same here the first run on the first trip to the track! I think I'll be upgrading the axles here soon as well.
Thanks Todd and Scott at Intense....
Originally Posted by gearhed
Luckily, it sounds like you have the $$ to upgrade to aftermarket.
Originally Posted by max_boost
The CV joint was fine, it was actually the metal shaft that broke. The axle tapers down near the cv joint and that's right where it snaped.
Ever hear of a "shear pin"?? Wop
Originally Posted by ENUFPWR
Give it time.... your almost there.... you should be making the power to twist them. Knock on wood it lasts for a few, then your **** out of luck. When you hit the power level and hook hard...something has to give.
Spec 3+ held up great..... axels... hummmm what's next?
Spec 3+ held up great..... axels... hummmm what's next?
Wop
Originally Posted by WopOnTour
Then the TQ limiter heads back in the general direction of the clutch (aftermarket ot otherwise)
Wop
Wop
youll have a minor loss in power to the groud tho because the extra power taken to drive the beefier axles right??? would those fit on my car maybe??? im with a few others in fixing things before they break, and id rather have it outta the way now then just buy a turbo(if they ever come out and i have the money for it) and then having to spend even more money to buy new axles cause i broke them. my father in laws looking into getting me a discount on a eibach pro system+ so ill in the very least not have a stock car anymore. then ill do the bottom end, and buy a new clutch and leave it to the side till turbo time.
and nevermind cause i saw the website and ss/sc only. why are they only good for forced induction motors not NA tho??? i dont understand that one.
and nevermind cause i saw the website and ss/sc only. why are they only good for forced induction motors not NA tho??? i dont understand that one.
Originally Posted by Kahless
youll have a minor loss in power to the groud tho because the extra power taken to drive the beefier axles right??? would those fit on my car maybe??? im with a few others in fixing things before they break, and id rather have it outta the way now then just buy a turbo(if they ever come out and i have the money for it) and then having to spend even more money to buy new axles cause i broke them. my father in laws looking into getting me a discount on a eibach pro system+ so ill in the very least not have a stock car anymore. then ill do the bottom end, and buy a new clutch and leave it to the side till turbo time.
and nevermind cause i saw the website and ss/sc only. why are they only good for forced induction motors not NA tho??? i dont understand that one.
and nevermind cause i saw the website and ss/sc only. why are they only good for forced induction motors not NA tho??? i dont understand that one.
Originally Posted by FAST06SS
The SS/SC's have different transmissions than the NA car.
Thanks for the advise on disconnecting the lower ball joint to get these axels in. Worked like a charm.... axels are in and working
Just working on the heat exhanger lines and I should be up and running soon.
Originally Posted by atwilson
16lbs each axel
Box wgt when shipped was 35lbs then minus the box wgt 3lbs..so I figured 32lbs/2= 16lbs each.
The stock one is 14lbs....
2lbs each side more.
Originally Posted by patathSS
Are you going to Milan next Friday Daren?
No, I have to work. I work 2nd shift during the week so that just leaves weekends for track days. Good luck and hopefully you break into the 12's.
Originally Posted by Kahless
what kinda of metal are they??? compared to the old ones?? forged or cast? Al, Fe, steel?
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/item168957.ctlg
This is the new level 2 axles from The Drive shaft shop, over the years Chevy has had a reputation of having very strong drive trains. Unfortunately this car does not follow the same heritage as the early muscle cars of yesteryear (sorry). Let's start by looking at the factory center bar. Unfortunately the engineers seem to have been pushed towards corporate bean counting instead of drive line excellence. This factory bar has a miniscule 23 spline that tapers down at the outer end that makes the center very weak. The outer C.V. is also made from a lower grade material and will just about handle the factory power. Our level 2 axle has a larger 4340 chromoly center bar with a full 32 spline , the outer c.v. is not only made from a stronger material but has a 30% larger cage for even more strength and the ABS sensor is in the hub so no worries there. The inner C.V. has our standard spline plug design with a larger tripod (larger posts and more needles). All in all the axle will handle up to 400WHP and keep your car from the hooks of a tow truck on race day. So if you're ready to go hunting for a race remember with out axles it may be a faster race than you wanted. //////// first run is sold out item may be purchased at http://www.intense-racing.com/


