When WOT shifting 1st to 2nd, has trouble going in
 

When I am 100% throttle in first gear, when I go to shift to second, it will not go in, I pull down hard for about 3 full seconds then it finally lets me in. But when I drive normally I have no trouble putting it into gear.

Any ideas as to what is wrong? I dont have a short throw shifter or anything. But I do have a centerforce dual friction clutch and lighweight flywheel, but this problem did not start after this clutch install.

synchro

Yep, I have the same kind of Issue! Not sure why its like that, But I thought I was the only one Experiencing this Issue....Now mines Not Quite as Bad as yours seems to be, But Yeah when I'm at WOT in 1st Gear and go to shift into 2nd it is Not Smooth to say the Least.

ya mines the same, I'm on an F23 trans though, but still, A.F.A.I.K its the synchro not letting you.

how do you fix that tho? Ive had it happen before, more 3rd gear than anything else tho

granny shifting not double clutchin like ya shoulda!

I have this very same issue. I can shift every other gear as fast as I can throw the shift lever, but the 1-2 shift is the most pain in the a*s ever. Would the twm shifter fix this issue or maybe the bushing kit they have? It almost feels like the cable(s) aren't quite allowing the lever to throw right. Is there a way to adjust the throw to where it gives you a bit more "push" into the gate for 2nd gear? This one issue makes me hate this car more than any one other issue.

bump, i wanna fix this :(

If its the synchro, its an internal transmission part, I got the complete TWM kit, it definitely improved shifting performance but did NOT fix my 1-2 issue

Well I am at a loss what to do then. This will be the 3rd time my car has been fixed under warranty for this issue. There should be no reason it won't go into gear unless it is a junk design, a bad syncro or something. What I don't get is its only 2nd gear that this ever happens to me.

you mean like... it wont go in right? like the door's closed or somethin right??

if u get in it in first gear or second and its hsrd to get into gear after that. most common factor is the clutch itself or the roll pin... the syncro can be bad but less likely

each gear has its own synchro, so this happening in one gear doesnt mean you should expect it in all

if you were talkin to me < i know this lol > but with the cobalts clutches are the main issue with this prob.

I went for a drive with a Drivetrain head tech at the dealership with him driving.

He drove my car around the block with me, and he said my trans was completely fine.
He also said that 1->2 shifts on cobalt's were notoriously stiff. He told me to just take it was with the 1,2.
But ya he told me nothing was wrong with the trans and to not spend unnecessary money fixing whats not broken lol.
Anywhooo I was told by Mark (tech) that its poor synchro design/crazy ratio from 1/2 in the gear box, the synchro's cant slow the gears down in time for such an RPM dump.

ure drivetrain tech is a.dumbass. take it from a dude thats repkaced a lot of lsj shitty clutches because.of ure problem. ... if you dont wot the car.in first or.second ure car is fine........... then issues is prob the pressure.plate teeth or friction plate...........

Ya I have this same problem on my f23 and it REALLY pisses me off when im at the track!

Ill tell ya what, I had this same problem after I got my clutchmasters installed. I think I have to bleed the clutch some more though. I was told the clutch is "dragging" it will do in 2nd-3rd-4th.. pisses me off so badly.

It's usually the clutch, if it's not the clutch it's a F'd transmission.

Anyone know the fix for it?

If it only does it at wot it could be in the tranny but like i said most of the time its the clutch or even the t.b... If it does this go vacuum bleed the system on 15* of vacuum. And let it pull the air bubbles out, also when doing this after the bubbles are gone close the system and make sure your screw is tight. The pump the t.b up a little and do it by hand bleeding, then do vacuum again. The best way is the way gm does it. they have a system thats hooked up to a 1-5 gallon tank and is vacuumed and they put a cap on the master cylinder and the bleeder screw and bleed the system by basically returning the fluid and pumping from the bottom. Its great

Hmm okay sounds good. Ill try that

Hey just finished fixing mine. I had the same problem. It was sloppy the same amount in all gears. Took Chevycobaltss3's advice and looked at the roll pin. It came out in 3 pieces. I decided I did not want to put another roll pin back in because I know why it broke :lol: I have put a bolt in for now.

This is all on top of the transmission under the fuse box under the hood. It's the roll pin that holds the shifter arm to the shifter shaft. What I did was unbolt the fuse blocks from the box and pulled it out of the way. It's a little frusterating getting that roll pin out but I had my methods.

hope this helps

Thank you everyone

Surprised nobody has mentioned this, but there is another weakness in the drivetrain that affects shifting: MOUNTS

Get poly mounts for the tranny and engine, and see how smooth changing gears can be. If you've ever seen how bad the motor flops around while the car is on a dyno you'd understand what I mean. I'll see if I can dig up an old video.

Only negative is the vibes (and therefore cabin noise) you get when first installed... after a few months they do settled down, or you get used to them, whichever.

Check out this thread: https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/gene...i-meet-133835/

Watch when they let off the throttle, and compare mine with all poly mounts (Sean) and the black one with good ol' stockers (Jarred)... or even Marshall's.
My motor doesn't move at all while his is all over the place. He drove my car after we saw that and he could definitely tell the difference between the two.

Just noticed OP has Ingalls TD, just go ahead and swap to poly trans mounts and see if that improves things.... it's an easy job.

why would you WOT in 1st gear with 0% boost reduction? your an idiot, learn how to race and/or drive. you should be 50% throttle IF THAT. if it shifts normal when you drive normal and not when you are at WOT. its driver error not car

if the synchro is bad its bad ALL the time. not half the time. you people are dumb