Need to find one under the dash to tap into any ideas?

 

what are you wiring?

 

a voltmeter

 

sunroof fuse. or windshield wiper fuse

 

radio fuse will work too

 

why don't you just use an empty fuse slot that has power when you turn the key on

 

and what fuse might that be lol

 

This.

 

hmm that inside the car right not good at wiring lol ony good when it comes to audio like wiring tv's lol

 

not trying to be a dick but theres like a million 12v wires you can tap into behind the dash

 

i'm sorry emporer but this is one thing i will argue you on in regards to electrical. adding things even a voltmeter to an existing system is not recommended. the stock wiring systems aren't designed to have things piggy backed on them. use one of the existing empty fuse slots for any additional components you add. that is what they are there for.

 

hmm i think i will juss use the empty slot seems safer i guess

 

i could be wrong but the empty ones either have no power going to it, or its a constant 12v so that the accessory would be turned on ALL the time...

voltmeters have to be connected to a constant 12v, switched 12v, and ground..

theres really no way to get switched 12v unless you plug it in to a existing fuse OR you acctually put a switch that you have to turn everytime you want to use your voltmeter

 

no there's 2 of the 6 that have no power. theirs 2 that have constant power and theirs 2 that are switched power. trust me on this one

 

Where are they then Steve?

My wideband has been picggybacked off my sunroof fuse for months. Correct fuse amperage, correct voltage supply, and it's switched to the ignition. Couldn't be much better of a spot.

 

pull the bcm panel and there is a diagram of which ones are empty. i know 22 is an empty switched. and will you can piggyback of the systems but its not really recommended, thats all i'm trying to say. if you can do the empty fuse slots those should be first choice. then piggy backing after.

 

i tried looking at the diagram thing on there, but it does NOT say which ones are switched or even powered.

All it says is "blank" or "spares"

 

ya you got to take a test light to them and check em manually. sorry forgot to mention that in my last post.

 

fck that noise hahaha. Way too lazy.

 

when i replace a few led's in my interior i'll take my test light to them. can't right now cuz i don't have my test light at my apartment. its nice and cozy in my tool box about 5km aways lol

 

everything you just said has been thrown out of the window. never ******* give anyone wiring information again. thats how people burn their ******* cars to the ground. if the fuse is popping, its because it is above the rated amperage draw on that circuit. the fuse pops so it doesn't catch on fire you moron. NEVER, EVER go up in fuse size

 

now why do you think i never ******* tap into existing systems. and i've wired up quite a few cars and always have used empty fuse slots to avoid any issues with existing systems. now granted i did screw up with that post and i will edit the post so no one else will use my false information. but i know i'm right about it not being recommended to tap into existing systems. the stupid thing is, is i knew that but for some reason had an idiot moment and posted that.

 

you can tap into them. you just have to do it properly such as using one of these.



mini add-a-circuit

 

that is the only thing i use. quite handy and most of them come with fuses in the package already. and lots of people have tapped into existing circuits without any problems. i may self just don't recommend it and i know quite a few journeyman electrical techs with 30+ years experience not recommend it either.

 

uh thats still piggy backing. same ****. Yes it is ghetto but you would have to tap any wire regardless. I was lucky in my car i have no sunroof but had acc power on that fuse slot. so i have 15a to work with no problems. If you really wanted to do it up right you would do an add a fuse with a 1a fuse going to a relay with a 10g or whatever running to the battery with its own fuse and a third fuse after the relay before the voltmeter

any tap we do at the shop has a 3a fuse inline.