15's!!! WTF?!
Lmao..thats a good question, i dunno myselfi just wanted simple input and i got it then the thread was just sittin there and all of a sudden everyone and there mother is here..y? idk..now everyone is arguin bout voltage sooo...yeah
Im going to argue with this. Neither of the 08s my family owns with lights on have hovered around mid 13's. Always closer to mid 12's. Both are 08 sport 2.4s. Also both when you let off the gas the lights and will dip down if the air is on and the lights are on which means its for that amount of time falling to most like 10-11volts before the alternator catches it.
remember the alternator on these cars isnt that big and many items pull a pretty decent current. But even at that the amp is rated at 14.4 volts but not getting it. Which means the amp is not putting out the watts its rated at. Also do remember its a 12 volt charging system.
Which means its nominal output is 12 volts. It might get a bit above that but not that much.
remember the alternator on these cars isnt that big and many items pull a pretty decent current. But even at that the amp is rated at 14.4 volts but not getting it. Which means the amp is not putting out the watts its rated at. Also do remember its a 12 volt charging system.
Which means its nominal output is 12 volts. It might get a bit above that but not that much.
Well you could be right but I've had a digital voltage gauge installed in my car for the past 6 months that tells me differently, the only reason I may dobut myself is because it's reading the voltage my amp gets, but I'm pretty sure the voltage will be the same throughout the whole car. I also have 2 deep cycle batteries and 0g throughout the car so that may be the reason
Are you running anything to seperate the batteries from the charging system when the batteries have a full charge? You could also be running your alternator harder. But yes those batteries would affect your end results. and 0 gauge? how much power are you pushing? Im a fan of the kinetic batteries or the BatCap setup you can buy (pretty neat lil thing its a battery and a cap built together).
you might want to get something that disconnects your batteries from your charging system (forget what its called brainfart..) But your most likely maxing your alternator out which also could be a reason for the higher than average voltage. that could lead to your alternator dying faster than normal. Have you had a clamp put on your system to see what your actual #s are? Since you live in st.louis Mach 1 audio is washington can do it. Theres another guy name Josh Landau off 44 in the valley park area who does amazing yet expensive installs and he might be able to test it out as well to see your actual #s.
If you do a clamp test on your system it will measure ACTUAL wattage your amps are putting out. Its not the rated watts of your system.
my buddy has an mmats amp thats rated at 2000 watts. Between wiring and his charging system it actually puts out slightly under 1200 watts. If he upped his charging system and switched to better wiring hed get a lot closer to the 2000. But yes if he claimed rated wattage on his setup it would be around 3000 as well.
ive been out of car audio for a while. It only disconnects them for a bit so the alternator isnt running at 100% the whole time.
If you do a clamp test on your system it will measure ACTUAL wattage your amps are putting out. Its not the rated watts of your system.
my buddy has an mmats amp thats rated at 2000 watts. Between wiring and his charging system it actually puts out slightly under 1200 watts. If he upped his charging system and switched to better wiring hed get a lot closer to the 2000. But yes if he claimed rated wattage on his setup it would be around 3000 as well.
If you do a clamp test on your system it will measure ACTUAL wattage your amps are putting out. Its not the rated watts of your system.
my buddy has an mmats amp thats rated at 2000 watts. Between wiring and his charging system it actually puts out slightly under 1200 watts. If he upped his charging system and switched to better wiring hed get a lot closer to the 2000. But yes if he claimed rated wattage on his setup it would be around 3000 as well.
for a true 2000rms using anything smaller than 0g is retarded
Been a while since I talked to him and he had it all hidden away in a storage compartment in his envoy. Will have to ask him next time I talk to him. It was an mmats 2000 watt amp with 2 treo 12's. It managed 140.1db but thats not bad in a big suv with 2 12's. But he didnt know the resonance frequency or anything it was his first ever soundoff. But still not too bad.
Been a while since I talked to him and he had it all hidden away in a storage compartment in his envoy. Will have to ask him next time I talk to him. It was an mmats 2000 watt amp with 2 treo 12's. It managed 140.1db but thats not bad in a big suv with 2 12's. But he didnt know the resonance frequency or anything it was his first ever soundoff. But still not too bad.
though, i'd throw a wager in that if u put down the back seats, u'll notice an increase in bump.
at least i do. only time i'd do such a thing though is in the summer.
Will post up a new thread with some a few soundoff pics from this years soundoff at mach1 audio (end of the year event).
Didn't bother reading everything but...
You need a CAPACITOR!!!! Bad. You will get much much much better bass response with a cap and you also won't ruin the alternator/battery in your car. Do it. Do it now.
CAPACITOR
You need a CAPACITOR!!!! Bad. You will get much much much better bass response with a cap and you also won't ruin the alternator/battery in your car. Do it. Do it now.
CAPACITOR
And for brickloaf and other stl members heres the soundoff pics from mach1 audio. Feel free to come out next year guys.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/electronics-audio-video-49/pictures-mach-1-audios-end-year-sound-off-stl-area-56k-warning-198465/
Last edited by CordiaDOHC; Dec 12, 2009 at 08:07 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
craziest thing ive seen is a 147.# in a crx with a single RE 8"
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