few more system questions
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few more system questions
Okay guys you were a lot of help before, but i have a few more questions. And here it goes. I was looking in the FAQ and this is what it says about the LAN harness:
Metra= non pioneer = GMOS-LAN-03
pioneer = GMOS-LAN-04 *retains onstar*
Pac= C2R-GM11 *without onstar*
I have a Kenwood DNX5120, so I assume that I need the Metra GMOS-LAN-03. But it doesn't say that it retains Onstar. I read through the FAQ of others posts but no one was for certain that it retained Onstar. That is my only reason for getting it.
And I know I asked this before but I want to confirm again. If I just kept the stock system (unplug stock sub) and ran the RCA's back and hooked up the new subs, the stock amp will run the stock speakers and the new amp will run the subs correct? Is there anything else involved?
Do I need the wire harness and antenna harness if I use the GMOS-LAN?
I have a 2009 SS, so the Metra 95-3302 is the double din kit I need correct? Which is this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...5fInstallation . So it looks like the outside rims of this mount to the back trim piece of the factory radio, if that makes any since. Is this correct?
When you remove the stock sub, there still the carpeted material behind, or are there any metal brackets that show?
Metra= non pioneer = GMOS-LAN-03
pioneer = GMOS-LAN-04 *retains onstar*
Pac= C2R-GM11 *without onstar*
I have a Kenwood DNX5120, so I assume that I need the Metra GMOS-LAN-03. But it doesn't say that it retains Onstar. I read through the FAQ of others posts but no one was for certain that it retained Onstar. That is my only reason for getting it.
And I know I asked this before but I want to confirm again. If I just kept the stock system (unplug stock sub) and ran the RCA's back and hooked up the new subs, the stock amp will run the stock speakers and the new amp will run the subs correct? Is there anything else involved?
Do I need the wire harness and antenna harness if I use the GMOS-LAN?
I have a 2009 SS, so the Metra 95-3302 is the double din kit I need correct? Which is this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...5fInstallation . So it looks like the outside rims of this mount to the back trim piece of the factory radio, if that makes any since. Is this correct?
When you remove the stock sub, there still the carpeted material behind, or are there any metal brackets that show?
#3
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Ok lets try and make some sense out of this.
Do you have an SS with onstar and NO Pioneer system?
Cuz that would be the only reason to get the GMOS LAN 03 (its even typed beside it in your post)
But then you say you have the stock sub, so then you do have the Pioneer system.
In which case you need the GMOS LAN 04 (once again you have already stated this in your post)
The GMOS LAN in the wire harness so I'm not sure why you wouldn't need it but the ant adapter is a seperate item and yes you need it. (If you have XM radio then you need the Chrysler ant. adapter, I know it doesn't make sense but it works)
The 95-3302 is the right one, no it does not mount to the back trim of the factory radio. Once you get the radio out you will see exactly how it goes in, its really easy as trim kits go.
The LAN 04 dconverts the signal wires from the stock harness into RCA's so they plug into the Kenwoods RCA outs. This is what makes it possible to run the stock amp with aftermarket HU's so yes the Kenwood will run your stock amp.
There is carpet behind the sub and the only thing that sticks out will be 4 bolts. You can take them out if you pull down the carpet, they are held in with tabs that can be removed. Or you could use the 4 bolts to mount an amp rack for your sub amp, since they are already there for you to use.
Your going to need a 10mm deep socket and a 6-8 inch extension for the rachet in order to remove the stock sub.
The 4 bolts that hold the radio in are 7mm or 9/32 and a piece of flat plastic or a panel remover to remove the trim above the glove box and to the left of the stereo, once there out then put your fingers behind the top of the trim around the radio and pull it out then remove the 4 screws and thats all it takes to remove the stock radio.
I've done it a few times now but the whole process takes me less than 5 mins. Even on your first try it should only take 20 mins give or take.
Important reminder: unhook the battery before you do anything, or you'll blow a fuse
Do you have an SS with onstar and NO Pioneer system?
Cuz that would be the only reason to get the GMOS LAN 03 (its even typed beside it in your post)
But then you say you have the stock sub, so then you do have the Pioneer system.
In which case you need the GMOS LAN 04 (once again you have already stated this in your post)
The GMOS LAN in the wire harness so I'm not sure why you wouldn't need it but the ant adapter is a seperate item and yes you need it. (If you have XM radio then you need the Chrysler ant. adapter, I know it doesn't make sense but it works)
The 95-3302 is the right one, no it does not mount to the back trim of the factory radio. Once you get the radio out you will see exactly how it goes in, its really easy as trim kits go.
The LAN 04 dconverts the signal wires from the stock harness into RCA's so they plug into the Kenwoods RCA outs. This is what makes it possible to run the stock amp with aftermarket HU's so yes the Kenwood will run your stock amp.
There is carpet behind the sub and the only thing that sticks out will be 4 bolts. You can take them out if you pull down the carpet, they are held in with tabs that can be removed. Or you could use the 4 bolts to mount an amp rack for your sub amp, since they are already there for you to use.
Your going to need a 10mm deep socket and a 6-8 inch extension for the rachet in order to remove the stock sub.
The 4 bolts that hold the radio in are 7mm or 9/32 and a piece of flat plastic or a panel remover to remove the trim above the glove box and to the left of the stereo, once there out then put your fingers behind the top of the trim around the radio and pull it out then remove the 4 screws and thats all it takes to remove the stock radio.
I've done it a few times now but the whole process takes me less than 5 mins. Even on your first try it should only take 20 mins give or take.
Important reminder: unhook the battery before you do anything, or you'll blow a fuse
#4
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Ok lets try and make some sense out of this.
Do you have an SS with onstar and NO Pioneer system?
Cuz that would be the only reason to get the GMOS LAN 03 (its even typed beside it in your post)
But then you say you have the stock sub, so then you do have the Pioneer system.
In which case you need the GMOS LAN 04 (once again you have already stated this in your post)
The GMOS LAN in the wire harness so I'm not sure why you wouldn't need it but the ant adapter is a seperate item and yes you need it. (If you have XM radio then you need the Chrysler ant. adapter, I know it doesn't make sense but it works)
The 95-3302 is the right one, no it does not mount to the back trim of the factory radio. Once you get the radio out you will see exactly how it goes in, its really easy as trim kits go.
The LAN 04 dconverts the signal wires from the stock harness into RCA's so they plug into the Kenwoods RCA outs. This is what makes it possible to run the stock amp with aftermarket HU's so yes the Kenwood will run your stock amp.
There is carpet behind the sub and the only thing that sticks out will be 4 bolts. You can take them out if you pull down the carpet, they are held in with tabs that can be removed. Or you could use the 4 bolts to mount an amp rack for your sub amp, since they are already there for you to use.
Your going to need a 10mm deep socket and a 6-8 inch extension for the rachet in order to remove the stock sub.
The 4 bolts that hold the radio in are 7mm or 9/32 and a piece of flat plastic or a panel remover to remove the trim above the glove box and to the left of the stereo, once there out then put your fingers behind the top of the trim around the radio and pull it out then remove the 4 screws and thats all it takes to remove the stock radio.
I've done it a few times now but the whole process takes me less than 5 mins. Even on your first try it should only take 20 mins give or take.
Important reminder: unhook the battery before you do anything, or you'll blow a fuse
Do you have an SS with onstar and NO Pioneer system?
Cuz that would be the only reason to get the GMOS LAN 03 (its even typed beside it in your post)
But then you say you have the stock sub, so then you do have the Pioneer system.
In which case you need the GMOS LAN 04 (once again you have already stated this in your post)
The GMOS LAN in the wire harness so I'm not sure why you wouldn't need it but the ant adapter is a seperate item and yes you need it. (If you have XM radio then you need the Chrysler ant. adapter, I know it doesn't make sense but it works)
The 95-3302 is the right one, no it does not mount to the back trim of the factory radio. Once you get the radio out you will see exactly how it goes in, its really easy as trim kits go.
The LAN 04 dconverts the signal wires from the stock harness into RCA's so they plug into the Kenwoods RCA outs. This is what makes it possible to run the stock amp with aftermarket HU's so yes the Kenwood will run your stock amp.
There is carpet behind the sub and the only thing that sticks out will be 4 bolts. You can take them out if you pull down the carpet, they are held in with tabs that can be removed. Or you could use the 4 bolts to mount an amp rack for your sub amp, since they are already there for you to use.
Your going to need a 10mm deep socket and a 6-8 inch extension for the rachet in order to remove the stock sub.
The 4 bolts that hold the radio in are 7mm or 9/32 and a piece of flat plastic or a panel remover to remove the trim above the glove box and to the left of the stereo, once there out then put your fingers behind the top of the trim around the radio and pull it out then remove the 4 screws and thats all it takes to remove the stock radio.
I've done it a few times now but the whole process takes me less than 5 mins. Even on your first try it should only take 20 mins give or take.
Important reminder: unhook the battery before you do anything, or you'll blow a fuse
"The GMOS LAN in the wire harness so I'm not sure why you wouldn't need it but the ant adapter is a seperate item and yes you need it. (If you have XM radio then you need the Chrysler ant. adapter, I know it doesn't make sense but it works)"
I dont really understand what this means. I think it means that I do not need the wireharness, and that the GMLAN is the wire harness. And I have XM but do not plan on using it after the trial is up, so do I still need a chrysler harness, and if so which one?
You said that the LAN04 converts the signal to RCAS which plug into the RCA outs of the Kenwood. Which RCA outs?
This sounds like Im not going to be able to do the install myself, and that it is harder than it looks.
#5
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the gm lan 04 is the name of the harness.
if you don't plan on paying for xm forget about it. Interfacing it with the new radio is going to cost you some change anyway so just make life easier and don't think about it.
the chrysler ant adapter is for the AM/FM antenna in your car. Without the adapter you cant plug the antenna into the new radio. If you want to listen to the radio you will need this antenna adapter
if you don't plan on paying for xm forget about it. Interfacing it with the new radio is going to cost you some change anyway so just make life easier and don't think about it.
the chrysler ant adapter is for the AM/FM antenna in your car. Without the adapter you cant plug the antenna into the new radio. If you want to listen to the radio you will need this antenna adapter
#6
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the gm lan 04 is the name of the harness.
if you don't plan on paying for xm forget about it. Interfacing it with the new radio is going to cost you some change anyway so just make life easier and don't think about it.
the chrysler ant adapter is for the AM/FM antenna in your car. Without the adapter you cant plug the antenna into the new radio. If you want to listen to the radio you will need this antenna adapter
if you don't plan on paying for xm forget about it. Interfacing it with the new radio is going to cost you some change anyway so just make life easier and don't think about it.
the chrysler ant adapter is for the AM/FM antenna in your car. Without the adapter you cant plug the antenna into the new radio. If you want to listen to the radio you will need this antenna adapter
so let me get this straight...the gmlan04 has the stereo harness and xm harness built in? then you need the antenna adapter for the regular antenna?
#7
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no the gm lan has nothing to do with xm. to recive xm you need the $70 xm box for kenwoods along with the antenna
http://www.crutchfield.com/g_319950/...wAll=N&tp=6953
http://www.crutchfield.com/g_319950/...wAll=N&tp=6953
#8
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no the gm lan has nothing to do with xm. to recive xm you need the $70 xm box for kenwoods along with the antenna
http://www.crutchfield.com/g_319950/...wAll=N&tp=6953
http://www.crutchfield.com/g_319950/...wAll=N&tp=6953
#9
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If you want to listen to XM or not doesn't make a diiference.
Its the style of plug that you have, that all the XM stock HU's had.
You need the Chyrsler ant adapter.
The part numbers are in the sticky at the top of the section.
Just by what you posted, and don't get offended, but you really should have this done by a shop or an experianced installer. You could screw more than the stereo up if you do something wrong.
Better safe than sorry
Its the style of plug that you have, that all the XM stock HU's had.
You need the Chyrsler ant adapter.
The part numbers are in the sticky at the top of the section.
Just by what you posted, and don't get offended, but you really should have this done by a shop or an experianced installer. You could screw more than the stereo up if you do something wrong.
Better safe than sorry
#10
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If you want to listen to XM or not doesn't make a diiference.
Its the style of plug that you have, that all the XM stock HU's had.
You need the Chyrsler ant adapter.
The part numbers are in the sticky at the top of the section.
Just by what you posted, and don't get offended, but you really should have this done by a shop or an experianced installer. You could screw more than the stereo up if you do something wrong.
Better safe than sorry
Its the style of plug that you have, that all the XM stock HU's had.
You need the Chyrsler ant adapter.
The part numbers are in the sticky at the top of the section.
Just by what you posted, and don't get offended, but you really should have this done by a shop or an experianced installer. You could screw more than the stereo up if you do something wrong.
Better safe than sorry
I understand and no offense taken. These new cars are a pain in the rear, I could put a systems in the older ones all day. I think I will be able to handle it, my brother will be helping me on it, the deal was that I just had to do the research and see what was needed. Thank you guys so much for your help, and I appreciate your time.
PS. Do you have any other pics of your tailights than the ones in your sig you could send me? I was thinking about getting some. Did you get those from turbotechracing? Oh and maybe a pic of the projectors too .
#12
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umm, **** yeah. those are tight. did you replace your fogs? I already have the stereo system from my last car, and after that goes in, I was gonna get the led tails and some projectors with HIDs
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my dnx 5120 has 6 rca outputs. Left and Right of course, but they are marked AV Output, Rear/SUB, Front. With the GMOS-Lan-04 I understand that there are 4 rcas, one for each speaker. I plan on putting in some aftermarket subs. I know how to hook the front left and right up, but for the rear can I hook them up to the L+R marked "av output"?
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spun, its a regular left and right
http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/f...8/Untitled.jpg heres a pic of the back of the unit
Last edited by dnasty88; 12-29-2008 at 08:16 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#21
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just looked up some info on your deck you had me all confused. the av output is just that an output for an extra screen
the 512 only has 2 preouts one set for the front and one set thats adjustable rear or sub so whats more important to you sub control or fade from front to rear?
the 512 only has 2 preouts one set for the front and one set thats adjustable rear or sub so whats more important to you sub control or fade from front to rear?
#22
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If it were up to me (which its not) I'd Y jack the front pre-out and use the rear/sub for the sub out.
Personally If I have to choose between loosing my F-R fade or loosing the ability to ajust my sub from the HU, then the I can live without the fade. The Sub volume control is a must. I know your not really suposed to play with the sub settings from the HU, but some freq. of bass bring out the rattles, only way to combat them is to turn the subs down a bit.
Damn rattling Cobalts, I did however find a latex-based rather than polyurethane-based expanding foam that does not harden into styrofoam like mono foam does.Its made by DAP it won't over expand and is rubbery, almost soft to the touch even when weeks have gone by since I applied it to the inside of a little metal lock box to test it out. Thinking about trying it in the rear decklid between the two sheets of metal. If that don't work I'm bringing out the torch and cutting the whole decklid out
When you get your GMOS LAN 04 in, before you install it, on one side of the little black box thats part of the harness there is a set of jumpers (like on a mother board or a hard drive) and a little round knob that has grooves cut into it. Put a small flat head screw driver into the knob and turn it clock wise a far as it can go. This is the volume control for the unit and it needs to be up or your front end will be quiet. Its going to make your warning chimes loud at the same time but you'll just have to learn to put your seat belt on quick, before they kick in.
Its like I always say, sometimes you have to sacrifice for the greater good
Personally If I have to choose between loosing my F-R fade or loosing the ability to ajust my sub from the HU, then the I can live without the fade. The Sub volume control is a must. I know your not really suposed to play with the sub settings from the HU, but some freq. of bass bring out the rattles, only way to combat them is to turn the subs down a bit.
Damn rattling Cobalts, I did however find a latex-based rather than polyurethane-based expanding foam that does not harden into styrofoam like mono foam does.Its made by DAP it won't over expand and is rubbery, almost soft to the touch even when weeks have gone by since I applied it to the inside of a little metal lock box to test it out. Thinking about trying it in the rear decklid between the two sheets of metal. If that don't work I'm bringing out the torch and cutting the whole decklid out
When you get your GMOS LAN 04 in, before you install it, on one side of the little black box thats part of the harness there is a set of jumpers (like on a mother board or a hard drive) and a little round knob that has grooves cut into it. Put a small flat head screw driver into the knob and turn it clock wise a far as it can go. This is the volume control for the unit and it needs to be up or your front end will be quiet. Its going to make your warning chimes loud at the same time but you'll just have to learn to put your seat belt on quick, before they kick in.
Its like I always say, sometimes you have to sacrifice for the greater good
#23
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just looked up some info on your deck you had me all confused. the av output is just that an output for an extra screen
the 512 only has 2 preouts one set for the front and one set thats adjustable rear or sub so whats more important to you sub control or fade from front to rear?
the 512 only has 2 preouts one set for the front and one set thats adjustable rear or sub so whats more important to you sub control or fade from front to rear?