06 ss w/ Pioneer system, no onstar

OK, I need some answers before I make a purchase.

I am going to go w/ the JVC KDBT1

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GVZsiop...spx?I=105KDBT1

My questions are as follows.

1.) If I but that head unit I will need the single din converter. Crutchfield.com says i will lose my DIC info, although the FAQ's here say I wont? I want my door chimes, and I just want to confirm they will not be lost if I do this? I will be using the Metra kit here

http://sector29.com/PRODUCT_PAGES/37/37-MTR99-3302.html

MOST IMPORTANT QUESTION....

2.) HOW WILL MY SPEAKERS BE POWERED? VIA THE HEAD UNIT, OR WILL THE STOCK AMP STILL POWER THEM? i HAVE 6 SPEAKERS AND 1 SUB, AND THE HEAD UNIT IS ONLY 4X50 SO HOW WILL THIS WORK. i DONT WANT TO TAKE A HIT IN THE SPEAKER DEPARTMENT JUST TO ADD AS SUB, PLEASE CONFIRM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

3.) i know I will need the wiring harness as well, but outside of that, is anything else required?

 

06 u wont loose chimes or DIC. The JVC will give power/signal to the stock amp... wiring harness is in the faq as well

 

Awesome, thanks, so the JVC will send a signal to the stock amp, and it will still work, and power my speakers?

Do we know how much power RMS our stock amp puts out to each speaker?

 

Dude....you suck man lol! :-) goodluck with the install! It will be so simple you will think something is wrong!

 

haha I sure hope so.

So does anyone know the specs of the stock amp? Like how many watts its putting out to each speaker?

 

350 max for all 7 speakers... also u cant run stock speakers off the jvc straight up must use either stock or aftermarket amp

 

HOLY CRAP XEONZX.... you haven't been on here forever!

 

Evenly distributed, even to the sub? Thats works out to abotu 50 peak per speaker, so probably 20-25 RMS. I guess thats not terrible


ALSO, AH, I WANT TO RUN THE STOCK AMP, THATS FINE, IS IT EASY TO CONNECT THE JVC TO THE STOCK AMP, OR IS THERE ANYTHING I SHOULD KNOW ABOUT IT BEFORE THIS WEEKEND?

Yea, I kinda gave up on modding my car when all the shti went down with my bro. Figure car audio gives me a reason to sit back and chill when driving lol, so it sounds like a good idea to me. Nice to see some familiar names, it appears as if all newbies are here now lol.

 

Yeah it helps....but then we you get to that song that really pumps you up it will sound so amazing and you will drive like a maniac man. lol Hope Chris is doin good though man, hows his wifey doin??

 

Yeah the JVC will power the stock amp but over time your gonna wanna bypass that amp and add a different amp to run your sub. Youll get more sound that way. The amps is in your drivers kick panel and its easy to do. Good luck with your install.

 

ah now im confused? I do have a new amp, a 600w RMS, for my new 12 Type R. I am going to take out the stock sub, is this OK? Can I use my new amp to power my new sub, and the stock amp to power my speakers in the car, minus the stock sub?

Will I need a cap for my system now?

Yea lol, I run into that from time to time now lol.

Chris is doing good, we dont really associate with his wife anymore, but thats a long story.....

 

Wtf...lol they are still married though correct??? I need details!!! lol Now I souind like a damn wife.

 

ur guess is better then mine. I can tell u that theres a good chance the stock speakers aren't getting 35rms and theres a good chance the sub was getting more then 50rms. Mind u theres 7 speakers (sub DVC) and 6 channels on the amp so theres no even anything

what he was saying was an amp bypass and new aftermarket amp for the mids and highs is going to be overall much better then running all stock. he wasnt talking about the sub whatsoever. Overall do what u do but u cant hook up the stock speakers to ur JVC by bypassing the amp

 

1.) My friend is saying it is possible to bypass the stock amp and run the JVC direct to the speakers. Hes saying unless they are stupid, the tweeteres and the front speakres would be connected crossovered and would be considered 2. the back 2 speakers would be considered another 2. This is how you would connect those 6 speakers to a 4 channel amp.

He says that probably the better way to do it too? Is there any reasoning as to why not to do this?

2.) as far as hooking the JVC to the amp if this is what I end up doing. Hes saying we will need to convert the signal to "line level" as running the powered part to the amp is a no no. Is this true, can we not just connect the stock harness from the car to the aftermarket head unit? What must be done to do this then in this situation? I would like to have this info on hand for when we start this on Saturday.

3.) Knowing I will be putting everything in this week, is there any other guidence or suggestions you can provide?


What sucks is my amp wont be delivered until Tuesday, so I am just going to put the radio in on saturday, and live without a sub for a few more days. We will probably put all the wiring in for the sub, just not hook it up we wont have possession of the amp.

 

bump for questions above

 

1. yes it is stupid but theres a really good chance either the amp has internal crossovers or it could be crazy like some caddies and the car doesnt really have a full range signal. Either way there is no such passive crossover in line with either tweet or midrange. FYI there are 7 speakers with a total of 8 voice coils. and theres a 6 channel amp... 2 tweeters are hooked to 2 channels, 2 front midrange are hooked up to the second channel and the last 2 channels are hooked up to the 2 6X9s and the sub (dual voice coil) now i know 100% a few things, the 6X9s are full range, the sub has a lowpass crossover, the sub is ran of 2 channels not one bridged, and if the sub gets 2 different signals it will blow so it must be mono at some point

Icing on the cake is all the drivers are 2 ohm

Now you can be a test subject and find out how the whole thing works if u really want to... just dont blow anything (which u will if u do "test")

2. Yes that is correct. when u hook up an aftermarket HU to the stock amp you are intern overdriving it and making it clip faster but since all aftermarket HUs have amps that are much like "dual mono" in the way that they are only 4 ohm stable running 2 ohm drivers on them wouldnt be the better choice in your situation... this is also why someone above said u will eventually want to upgrade to an aftermarket 4 chan amp

3 stop asking questions and listening to your friends i not only do this for a living i also have helped tons of cobalt members and done a few installs in balts myself. I know my stuff

 

1.) When I remove the stock amp from the equasion, does that mean that all that extra power goes to the 6x9 speakers? Is that a problem?

2.) The word "overdriving" scares me. Can you define "overdriving" and "clip" Like, is this something that is going to kill the stock amp in a few weeks?

3.) Is this going to cause any damage to my speakers in the process?

4.) Now im confused. you said that we have 6 channels. Tweeters = 2, mids = 2, rears = 2. Then why would I want a 4 channel amp? Wouldnt I want a 6 channel at that point?

5.) the Af Mar HU is 4 channel x 50. I know it may be extra work but would it be worth it to bypass the stock amp and hook direct to the new HU? Can I do that since there are 6 channels worth of speakers in my car?


Thanks for all the help, thats why I am still on here asking questions. The problem with my friend is, hes very stubborn and will want to do things his way. Since I didnt know anything going into this, I am trying to learn all I can so I can tell him why or why not something should be done. His current intentions are to bypass the stock amp, and to run all the speakers to the new head unit. He says he will probably need to convert them to component connectors first. Again, I am totally lost in all of this and am mainly looking for guidance.

the harness, dash kit, HU, amp kit, amp, box, and sub all came in, so we will be doing the install tomorrow.

 

1 you cant unless u get an aftermarket amp that will handle a 2 ohm load (either a 2 ohm stable 6 channel amp or 1 ohm stable 4 channel amp)

2 overdriving means the amp is already getting a amped signal at the input. Easiest way to explain it is you loose a bit of your low volume. example what was once volume 1 at the amp is now going to be much louder since the amp is being overdrivin. Clipping is distortion at the amplifier level. It wont really effect the amp all that much (its not good but amp doesnt care unless it gets too hot... good chance it wont) but it will fry your speakers. Now i know your going to start freaking out but every system can clip at some level. Easiest way to not break something is to use your brain. If you turn it up past say 30 and it sounds like **** and is distorting then dont do it. While the setup ur lookign at isnt really kosher that doesnt mean it wont work as long as your not a complete retard. I can almost guarantee u i could run the exact same thing for years with no problems as long as the JVC deck doesnt break (ive had bad luck with JVC units but i really like them oddly enough)

3 guess what most damage to speakers is caused by user error so...

4 i was just telling you how it was ran factory. easiest best option would be a 4 channel amp with a passive crossover in line with the mid and tweet

5 speakers are 2 ohm, hu is 4 ohm stable. if u hook them up directly ur either going to purchase a crossover and run the 4 speaker sets at 2 ohms and u WILL fry the deck or not and run the front at 1 ohm and fry the deck FASTER along with giving full range to the front meaning tweet will instantly blow and midrange will go out in a while...

oh theres no such thing as component connectors... u can either hook them up directly to an amp or hu and use internal crossovers in it (stock amp and ur HU dont have those options) or use a separate passive crossover and make a component "set"

 

Thanks for the answers. Well I like to listen to my music pretty loud. I like a good combination of highs and base. Right now in stock form I put the volume up to about 75%. Will I be able to get similar sound levels from the aftermarket headunit when connected and overdriving the stock amp?

 

also, how many watts RMS do our tweeters/mids/rears accept?

 

think of overdriving the stock amp as overdriving the stock ss/sc charger...

 

well I think of that as being a 2.8 inch pulley is safe, but a 2.5, isnt.

so what would my JVC be like the 2.8 or the 2.5

 

That head unit has 3 pairs of preamp outputs. just connect the stock amp to the front and rear channels. Then when you get the new sub, just wire that amp to the sub output on the head unit and unplug/remove the stock sub. Simple as that.

I have an older JVC unit that is very similar. It has an "Amplifier Gain control" setting for the preamp outputs. Your HU has the same feature.. just set it for low gain/power.. and you won't haveto worry about overdriving anything. That's exactly what that setting is for. Look for the full desctiption under "hands on research" under that crutchfield link you posted.

Also if you want to keep your steering wheel controlls, go for that "PAC SWI-JACK" wheel control converter.

That Metra dash kit is a pretty solid unit. The screw on mounting tabs are brilliant. I use it, but modified it a bit. Check it out in "My work in progress" thread if you like.

 

Thanks for the info.

How would I go about connecting the pre outs for front/rear on the AM HU to the stock amp? Like, I dont think the stock amp has RCA's in, so like, how would I convert from the aftermarket HU to the stock amp?

 

u dont.. speaker wire only