Im aware, but i cant find the fuse taps anywhere so hes getting them for me and an inline fuse to go with the wire

 

Yeah, and so should you. What happens when you overdrive a voice coil and don't give it enouph power?

 

Not giving the voice coil enough power does NOT overdrive it!

I think you're trying to allude to clipping, in which the output of the amplifier gets 'clipped' and starts to resemble a square wave. This happens when the loudness of the system isn't enough for the user and the user cranks the volume/gain knobs. Instead of nice sine waves, the sub gets waves that resemble square waves with much higher output. The speaker cone doesn't move properly (ie with a pure square wave its either on or off), and the lack of regular movement doesn't cool the voice coil which could lead to damage. However, with a sub like that it would probably take an awful lot of clipping and the sub would sound really bad to the listener before it hurt it.

 

Your long paragraph is what I was refering to. And while you are right, I wasn't refering to the lack of power overdriving it, I was refering to the end user overdriving it. You can run as much power as you feel like, just make sure it's clean power. I've heard some pretty bad systems that people thought were the heat, until they blew their subs. Come on, would you honestly recommend running a sub like a Type R on that amp? I ran mine on a 1501D, and they beat. I didn't give the guy any bad advice or bum scoop, you need to feed those subs.

 

I just hate it when everyone blindly says "underpowering a sub blows it" because that is totally not true. You can run as little or as much (provided you don't grossly exceed recommended max's) power through a sub as you want, provided you don't drive the amp into clipping. Obviously you know what's going on but someone that doesn't will read that and then start saying the same without knowing that it's really clipping that hurts a sub.

I wouldn't necessarily recommend that sub for that amp, but I don't think it would sound horrible, that amp produces 360 watts RMS which is well within the recommended range of 200-500 watts RMS of the sub provided the sub is wired for a 2 ohm load.

 

Yeahhhhhhhh so the sub is coming on the 30th
Expect to see some pictures late next week...

 

Alright everythings all wired up, instead of using the sunroof fuse i used the one above it which was empty. We used a test light and figured out that its only on with the key, so we hooked up the remote power wire into a fuse and then into the fuse box, now the amp goes on and off with the key on ACC =)...So basicly everything is all wired and ready to go, just waiting on the sub now =)

 

nice job, wasnt as hard as you thought it was, right?

 

Not when your girlfriends stepdad is a mechanic =P

 

true.

 

Ahhh man its all installed and damm does this baby punch, the whole car rumbles, its amazing, theres a slight rattle in the trunk somewhere, but nothing I cant drown out =)

Ill take some pics soon and post, thanks guys for all the help!

 

lets see them

 

Alright here are the pictures of the sub install, including the fuse panel and my neons, check it out...







My car is a little dirty hahah, ive been to lazy to vacume it, all this rain has brought crap into my car

 

wow those pics are freaking huge, you should downsize them. but it looks pretty good, im not too crazy on the neon placement, but its your car (it took me forever just to figure out where they were, it was a disorienting picture). do you have an inline fuse on that wire on the fusebox?

 

Yeah its that big black thing, look at the blue wire, it goes into the black fuse and then into the fuse panel

 

ok good, i thought that was it. its funny though, you didnt even do what we had talked about, the whole slpicing the fuse, but i guess that works

 

I know, I couldnt find Fuse taps at any store around here so i went with this method