So I've been dabbling with ideas on how to get my trunk space back and it hit me at the car show.

What if I buy a used Stock Pioneer sub/enclosure from an SS and replace the sub with one of these..

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-N8QvzUh...=520&s=0&cc=01

That should be nice right? Has anyone replaced the sub in the stock enclosure like this?

 

well i have the pioneer system in my cobalt, but i don't get all that much "feel it in your chest" kind of bass. good quality though

 

It should work, you still need an amp i believe with any other sub other than the pioneer that is in there

there was a guy on here that did this though...
but he bought a pioneer cause the box says pioneer

 

^^yeah someone has done it before with jsut changing the sub to another pioneer sub.

 

Well yeah I have a full aftermarket system in my car now, Im just looking to get rid of my 12inch Type E and the ginormours enclosure for something a little more classy/small

 

My stock sub and enclosure is for sale. It was only in my car for 3 months and is in mint condition. PM me with an offer if you're interested. My stock head unit is for sale also if anyone is interested.

 

I fit a kicker comp vt in there with not much work, a little bit of dremeling

 

My Stock enclosure has a new sub in it...

 

I'm doing that too, cheap ones on ebay. Match it with the 500 series amp they have 300 watts rms at 4 ohms, basically perfect.
I'd rather have SQ then SPL. I'm going to make sure that stock enclosure is air tight then fill it. I just hope the balt can handle 744 watts rms. I wish Emperor would speak up on this

 

How to Here.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...ighlight=stock


Friend of mine is doing this to his ss/sc with an aftermarket amp too. It's really not hard at all if you know what you're doing.

 

$217.88 for both both the alpine sws-1023d and the alpine mrp-m500 on ebay

 

That looks pretty good, how hard was it? Do you need a dremel? Also stupid question but I dont have that enclosure yet, how does it secure to the car, clips? a screw?

 

It wasn't to difficult, I had to unscrew 4 bolts that hold the enclosure to the car, then take out all the screws from the front of the sub and one bolt from the back. I sealed up all the holes in the box. (one on back and where the wires came in, while running new wires to it) I didn't have to dremel anything, it was a perfect fit for my 10" RF P3 Shallow, and my Amp puts out ~300 RMS to it. Works really nicely.

almost looks like my enclosure is broken in the back corner...i will have to check that out, I know the P3 hits pretty good...

 

Isnt there something you can put inside the box to make it seem like theres more air space? I know it sounds stupid but I thought I saw some kind of fill. Would that be a good idea in this case?

 

i think what ur refering to is polyfill or something like that.. i know what ur talking about though... i think u can pick it up at a local audio shop, iv even seen it at walmart..

 

yeah, he's talking about poly fill. It can be useful if you almost have the air space you need. Probably would work alright here.

 

Thats the problem with plastic boxes.
The stock sub is bolted in from behind, taking alot of the preasure off the front, I don't know of to many subes that have threads in the middle of the magnet to have a screw fit into them. Over time the wieght of the magnet combined with the vibration of the sub is going to tear the front of the box up, the spot where the sub screws in has alot of force on it with the wieght of the sub and gravity pulling down on it. might want to think about putting an MDF ring inside the box to compensate, something like you would for door speakers. See the thread J. Rayth's 3k system install if you want pictures

 

box is fine actually, checked it out yesterday. going to be doing some adjusting of the system today. I think i might look into a MDF ring soon though. I know what your saying with regards to the weight, I am more worried about the air pressure though. If I give it enough power it will probably blow the little plastic box apart. (it does have a lot of internal bracing though)

 

that sub is 6" where the stock one is 4" deep you will need to make a 2" mdf ring which looks really bad but it works

heres what it looks like:

 

Whoa thats the exact sub Im going to do. How does it sound? Crapp now I just need to find someone who can cut me a 2inch mdf ring.

 

I installed a jl 10w1v2 in the stock box.It sounds 10x better than the stock sub.

 

it pounds a little less as it did when it was in my 1.5 cu ft ported box. Considering the stock box is about 0.7 cu ft thats not that bad. If you haven't bought a sub yet i would reccomend buying a shallow mount sub (<4" deep) so you dont need to cut the rings. However, if you want the alpine you can easily make the ring with a compass and a jigsaw. Just a fyi, my ring was 3 layers thick of 3/4" MDF.

 

My RF shallow 10 comes in dual 2 and dual 4 ohm versions fits perfect in the stock box and has a recomended Air space within what the box has. It has a RMS of 300 watts, but it's a RF P3 and will probably be happy with closer to double that. (It sounds great on 300 RMS)

 

That looks real good. Did you need to make any rings or mods to the plastic to make it fit?

 

My buddy did a JL 10w3 in the stock enclosure, powered by a single amp under the back deck, sounded really nice, and looked pretty factory except for the amp. I was going to do this at some point, but i've never spent the time or money to do it.