looking good where are you going to put the other amp?

 

On the floor.

We took out the spare tire and are going to mount the Kinetic HC1400 down there, that way when I upgrade to another 1200.1 or the SE4000 and need the two Kinetic HC2800's they'll still both fit down there. So for now the one 1200.1 will just fit on the floor right as you open the trunk lid, in front of the box. Then down the road when I get the other 1200.1 or upgrade to the SE4000 there will still be room in the same place.

Have I mentioned the Arc 6000's are absolutely amazing? They are the best components I have heard yet. They are so clean and sharp, but aren't ear piercingly bright like JL's.

 

You should mount the mids in the door panels. Those grills are too amazing not to use! Here's what I did with mine:

 

tahts sick bumpin

 

damn that looks good as hell

 

That does look sharp, but remember I have a base model so my door inserts are crappy black fabric. I don't have anything colored except the silver trim and I actually would rather have those black. As far as the grills, I prefer to keep the look as stock as possible. I don't want any extra attention to the speakers as that is just temptation for the creeps to bust my window in and steal my ****.

Looks sharp as hell though man, nice work!

 

I just looked at the 1st page again. I thought the star pattern grills were for the front speakers. Those mesh grills would probably get kicked and dented fairly easily. Stealth systems are pretty sweet also. I like a clean understated install. Your head unit should blend into the dash nicely. I have a half DIN EQ also, but my head unit is a 1 DIN so I mounted the EQ just below it. How much was your EQ? Mine has sliders instead of knobs, so it's difficult to make small adjustments.

 

I can't give an exact price, so I'll say its between 350 and 450.

 

Bumpin i think you might be thinking of louder sound / double power. which is basically-- to hear a 3dB increase in sound (about the lowest audible amount) it takes a doubling of power

basically, all other things being equal if i swap out my 50x4 amp for 100x4 amp (lets not get into a wattage debate in this) i would see about 3~4 dB's increase.

if not i'd like to read that article, i've never seen that before.

 

No, I am aware of the "2x power for a 3db increase". It was probably about 10 years ago that I read that, so it may be a squashed theory by now.

 

that's ok, seems interesting tho, i might have search around and see what i can find

 

ooo pik i was going to try and get u on the 3db thing by saying in theory u get the increase but u said all things equal...

 

Door Dampening, Round One
^--- It will only be two uneventful rounds, but still...

Got the last 120 SqFt of Damplifier (40 for my car, the rest for my next dampening project) to use for the doors:


Unfortunately I didn't get a picture of the inside of the door, but it is completely covered, and then we did the second layer of door as well. Here's the passenger door:


And the drivers side:


When we were doing the drivers side door we wanted to test the window to be sure the speaker tweaker kit we previously mounted wasn't going to be an issue, so we tested the window... and it wouldn't roll down at all. The motor gets really hot but the spring on the bottom doesn't even move, so we figure the motor has died. Before we totally seal up the door I'm going to have to get the motor replaced, but either way, the doors are pretty much done at this point. Over the damplifier layer will go the Overkill Pro we already traced out, then the plastic water/gas barrier on top of that. We'll put another layer of the thinner Overkill inside the door paneling itself in any curves where it will fit and then close it up.

I'm hoping to receive the head unit bracket and faceplate tomorrow so we can get that all secured down, because then my car will be drivable again!

 

Two questions..

Can you hook an EQ up to a factory stereo or do you have to have outputs on a sub/amp/more speakers for it to be useful?

And you also said that you got your HU because it has the ipod cable/control, im assuming that its a rear hookup, how are you going to bring the cable to the front? I havent been able to find anything on how to do this and was wondering how.I didnt know if you have to drill a hole through the dash for the cable or if there is something i am just plain forgetting.. ?

 

I think it'd be sweet to put the ipod in the trunk release shelf-drawer thing.

 

if this helps... i ran my cord for my mp3 player down the console into the center down my the passengers feet(this is because i have the stock 2007 radio and the input is on the front) ran it behind the fuse box passed the shifter and up threw the hole for the e brake... it works great... had a 6ft cable and maybe 2 ft out of the hole for room to play you could also bring it out where the two pieces come together in the center

 

ok cool. did this require any drilling or trimming or was it just putting the cable through and out? my friends Mazda has one like that only it came in the factory and comes up throught the center console...

 

not drilling nothing... i would take pictures but i don have my car

i took pictures but i cant get them off my camera now lol i lost the cord

 

The ipod is controlled through USB. The unit comes with a USB extension cord, which you can also buy online. Its a USB male - USB female cord. Then the Ipod plugs into the USB cord with the standard USB Ipod cable that you would use to hook it up to your computer. The deck controlls it that way, but yeah you could extend the USB cable pretty much anywhere you want.

Also another semi-update, half-inspiried by Bumpin's midbass mounting, we are going to be picking up a Morel 9" midbass speaker w/ crossover to add into the door units, so we'll have a 9" Morel, 6 3/4" Arc, and Arc tweeter all in the doors.

 

Nice move! You gotta have some bump up front! LOL. Here are some more pics of my installation process to help you out:







What is the mounting depth of the Morel Mid bass speakers? My Kickers are 2.25" deep and I have about 1/2" to spare from the back of the speaker to the metal portion of the door. I have 3 layers of Dynamat Xtreme behind them. I isolated the mid bass from the rest of the door panel by adding soft foam to create a semi-sealed compartment. I used 5/8" MDF for the backing ring inside the door panel (painted black in pictures). I had to do some shaping with a belt sander because the door panel is not perfectly flat in that area. I used silicone between the ring and the door panel for strength and to help limit vibration travel. When my arm is on the arm rest, I can barely feel anything. With the amount of dampening material you have added, you shouldn't have any problems either.

 

They are 3" deep And yeah we have quite a bit of sound dampening going into the door so it should be fine. Thanks for the extra info, that will actually help us quite a bit!

 

look at the rockford fosgate 3sixty unit. It has oem intigration and honestly would be better then a random EQ

 

Deck and EQ mounted!!!

Yesterday the faceplate and mounting brackets for the deck and EQ came in. I knew I wanted to paint the faceplate the same silver as the body color but the faceplate had a slight texture to it, so yesterday I sanded it down till it was smooth. I already have exact color-matched paint by Sherman Williams, so it was just a matter of coating it a bit and letting it dry.

Today we mounted the deck and EQ:


Here is a closeup of the paint showing how perfect it matches the factory paint:


We are still waiting for the box to come in, but other then that everything is just about done. My drivers automatic window broke so I need to get that looked at, the motor just clicks and gets really hot but doesn't roll down.

 

Wow, great job on the color matching man. Wish i was that talented lol.

 

Have the color code for sherman williams by any chance?