Well my battery is on its last legs and it needs replaced. I'm thinking about replacing the stock one with an optima yellow top because I am running 2 12'' subs and a couple other electronics that put some extra load on the battery.

Does anyone here have this battery and how is the quality?

Also, Is there any vendors on here that are able to hook us up with a deal on these batteries? Don't want to end up spending $170 for a battery but will if I have to.

 

I have one and I love it. It was in my Firebird for about 2 years with my 2000 watt system and a high output alternator. I generally had lunch break's in my car and had the system going for ~30 minutes without the car running. I even used it for entertainment while working on friends cars for hours without any problems.

I kept it when I traded in my Firebird and left it in my garage for about a year and a month. A few weeks ago I decided to put it back in the Cobalt since I'm moving my old system into it and and put it on the charger for maybe 20 minutes before putting it back in my car. The car started without a problem. Didn't even sound a bit drained. Its been running fine since then.

All of that being said, Kinetik batteries are probably the way to go since that is what they were designed for. Had I heard about them when I was getting my yellow top I probably would have went with them.

 

i have two optimas in my car and i love them spend the money its worth it i paid 200 a battery so do it and never look back

 

I heard that the yellow tops are a little taller than our stock batteries and it pushes the floor up in the trunk. How bad is it? and if someone could post a pic I would appreciate it. If its not too bad I think that I will purchase one.

 

can you please not steal my avatar?

 

if your worried about an extra load on your battery and electrical system may I sujest with the adition of a new battery that you get a 1-2 Farad capacitor it really lightens the load on the electrical system of the car and it increases the responce time of your subs... oh and if youve ever noticed your head lights diming when your subs are turned up, a capacitor will also fix that, Im runing 2000 watts with a 1 farad cap and its a noticable diferance
you can get them online for veary little this is ware I got mine http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i6_-capacitors.html

 

caps blow juss get two batterys lol

 

lol i was about to say either your not running 2000w or the cap didnt do ****. take ur pic

 

who me jj heheh

 

no to axel but u posted caps are useless which is shorter and nicer way of saying the same thing

 

If you really think caps don’t do anything than you are mistaken, and I’ll explain why. A car audio power cap works by storing large amounts of electrical power which it can then deliver to power hungry components when called upon to do so. They have an advantage over typical lead acid storage batteries because they have very low internal resistance. This allows them to deliver large amounts of power (current) very quickly. Much FASTER than a car's charging system can deliver that same amount of current. Car audio power amplifiers can have very large current demands. This is dependent on the music being played through the amplifier. Typically these currents are only needed in short bursts during transient peaks (cannon shot, bass drum strike, etc.). If the amplifier tries to pull this current from the electrical system directly it may cause a drop in voltage called sag. This sag is equivalent to a voltage drop in the system and the size of the drop depends on the resistance of the wire from the source (battery) to the amplifier. So what does that have to do with a car audio power capacitor? Two things. First, a power capacitor is placed much closer to the amplifiers than the battery is so that voltage drop is going to be much less all other things being equal. But second, our charging systems are not designed to provide current draws that large at any time. So your amplifiers are going to have to get the power from the vehicle's battery as well as the alternator. And the battery has its own internal resistance which, as stated before, is much higher than that of a car audio power capacitor. Because of this extra internal resistance it is not an effective means of delivering large amounts of instantaneous current. The capacitor acts like a small tank with a large hose while a battery acts like a large tank with a small hose. So with a capacitor installed you can deliver a large current burst during a music transient and then the capacitor can recharge during the non-peak portions of the music. The first way most people know if their system is in trouble is headlights dimming. To most car audio enthusiasts with a passing knowledge of electrical systems this means a capacitor is needed. Headlights dimming? Get a cap. And that's a pretty good guess but not always true and certainly not a guaranteed cure. A power capacitor can only do so much. Sometimes an upgraded alternator and battery are needed. If the headlight dimming only occurs at idle then it probably isn't much to worry about and a power capacitor may help. An idling vehicle puts out much less current from the alternator while the current draw from the audio system remains the same.

And guys I was only trying to help there was no need to have 4 posts about how I’m wrong or how I don’t have 2000 watts the point of this thread is to help this guy not bash me, and yes a second battery is another solutin but if you do run a second battery be sure to get a Battery Isolator.

 

How did this turn into an argument about capacitors!!

My system doesn't cause the dimming of my lights so I'm certain that I'll be fine with just a yellow top. Might invest in a capacitor eventually though.

Anyone have any word on the trunk floor being pushed up? Anyone with an optima speak up

 

yes yellow tops push up the trunk floor

and here is my brief description of caps...


they get charged up, and after youve been thumping for a few minutes, the cap is drained....then your essentially pulling directly from the battery cause the cap isnt charged so therefor it cannot release any extra current

 

I dont think you understand quite right, a capasitor charges in 10-30 milliseconds
So with a capacitor installed you can deliver a large current burst during high curent parts (heavy base) and then the capacitor can recharge during the non-peak portions of the music (any small duration without heavy base)

 

and if the song is all bass then wont and with a 1 farad cap and a 2k system is pontless frend runs a 5 farad cap and his lights still dim so pointless

 

well than that sucks for them

 

hence y they do nothing for a big system

 

i bet they would do something for a small system....my friend has like 400rms and he put in a cap and he said it stopped his dimming...this friend is essentially retarded too (for the record)

but if a cap can charge in 10-30 ms...it must not be holding that much power

 

agreed brick so in a sense a big system is useless with a cap

 

to clarify stopping the dimming doesn't necessarily mean you get ***much*** more power for the amplifier. and yes everyone is somewhat correct, capacitors on the power end do have an effect. they can act as a filter for alternator noise, they can give the amplifier some quick power for short amounts of time BUT in most cases a cap is much like a ground loop isolator. its a band aid to fix a problem should be fixed by other means. i would estimate about 500w rms is the biggest a 1f cap could honestly "help" any more power and its truly worse to have one then not (the resistance you get from 2 ring terminals touching is equivalent to cutting your power wire and putting a butt connector in line + the added drain on the battery/alternator)

a capacitor in the way most people think about it is a marketing scam and a way for companies/shops ect to make more sales. The people who truly "need" them really don't get them and most of the people who buy them it doesn't do anything other then make flashy lights

 

agreed jj and go look at the el paso thread i get my car back tomm btw wit the new system heheh u will like it hehe

 

you still dont understand how a cap works, being able to completly charge almost instantly is what makes a cap diferent from a battery regardless of size or power rating.

 

that doesnt nessicarily mean that it even does anything thou. you want to talk about caps actually doing something. how about you check out the T15kw from rockford fosgate

 

Rockford Fosgate (RF) T15kW
15,000 Watt 4-Ch. Hybrid SQ/SPL Amp

- 1/0 Gauge power/ground connectors with ANL fusing
- 12dB or 24dB/octave selectable crossover
- 2/4 channel switch
- Audiophile grade speaker connections
- Best in class 4 oz. copper traces
- MasterSync
- PowerSync
- Stealth Connections

Number of Channels 4
Continuous power
500W x 4 @ 4-Ohms RMS
1000W x 4 @ 2-Ohms RMS
2000W x 4 @ 1-Ohm RMS
3750W x 4 @ 0.5-Ohm RMS
2000W x 2 @ 4-Ohms bridged RMS
4000W x 2 @ 2-Ohms bridged RMS
7500W x 2 @ 1-Ohm bridged RMS

Total sum of 'rated power'
8000 Watts @ 1-ohm
15000 Watts @ 0.5-ohm

Circuit Topology Class Class A/B with Hybrid Technology (HT)
Frequency Response 10Hz to 40kHz +/- 0.5 dB
Shipping Weight 180 Lbs.
Dimensions (HxWxL) 37.5" x 22" x 10"
$25,000.00

Holy Crap I can buy 4 used cobalts for that much ROFL

 

love that amp btw SMD guy look for him on youtube i think he is using like 2 of those