bulletpound

okay, with my retrofit recently one of my lights would either flick on for a split sec or not turn on and when it would turn on it would be a little dimmer,

now im running my relay like this,

one relay for my sheild ( high beam sheild, opens and closes)
one relay for my actual lights coming on

they both have 14v 40amp 5pin relay on them.
now i cant find a relay thats just 40 amp 14v , all i find is 30amp and thats what i have in it now ( hence why it keeping not coming on or dimming)

now i see relays online saying
-30 amp closed, 40amp max
-40amp closed, 60 amp max
-30amp closed, 50amp max
-40 amp closed, 50 amp max

i dont know which one to get, i dont want to frie things with too high amp and dont want something with too low.

and before anyone asks, my ballasts are fine and bulbs are fine.

btw i been running this retrofit for 2 yrs no problem and its a, 07 tl projectors, zkw lense, bosh gen 5 ballasts, 4300k philps bulbs

help me please

DaBuzzard

If the ballasts draw 30 amp, you need at least a 30 amp relay, going to a higher amp rating won't hurt anything.

If it's the same light giving you problems all the time and it worked fine for 2 years, I would be checking the grounds and connections for corrosion.

My $0.02

bulletpound

i checked the ground and connections and there all fine and i cleaned them again. the driver side is dimmer. i switched around bulbs, ballasts and even switched headlight sides and its still the driver side. only thing i can think of is either both relays are tapped for power but one also has highbeam hence why one side is dimmmer?

right now one of my relays
30amp- not sure of the min and max
40 amp ( stock one i didnt switch)

top is dimmer

DaBuzzard

Hmmmm, this is an odd one. Unless the ballast or bulb is going bad, they should just light up - but you already swapped side to side and the problem stays on the drivers side so.......

Could be the relay contacts are pitted / burned, not allowing enough current to operate the ballast properly.

Hmmm, thought just occured - I reread your post, and it sounds like you have one relay feeding both ballasts and the other relay just for the high beam solenoid. If that is correct, and you have the 30 amp feeding the ballasts, try swapping them. If the lights now fire up, you have found your problem - only reason I suspect this is because 30 amps would be marginal for the starting up 2 ballasts, 40 should be good.

Worth a shot

bulletpound

iv tried swapin the 40amp and 30 amp but same results, only thing that is diff that is wired to me is that when the 40 amp is pluged in to the actual lights its warmer then the 30amp one which just stays the same temp.

im not sure on min and max ampage for both relays and i checked in sockets for them they both were clean

iv tried swapin the 40amp and 30 amp but same results, only thing that is diff that is wired to me is that when the 40 amp is pluged in to the actual lights its warmer then the 30amp one which just stays the same temp.

im not sure on min and max ampage for both relays and i checked in sockets for them they both were clean

DaBuzzard

OK, I can see the pic's now (couple anyway) and it almost looks like the bulb on the drivers side is sitting too low in the projector or the shield has shifted too high up - but that would not explain the failure to start.

When you checked the ballasts / bulbs, did you swap them both at the same time or did you try just swapping the bulbs?

I'm assuming also that when you switch to high beam the shields move as normal but the drivers side stays dimmer than the passenger side?

This one is a head scratcher - don't suppose you are anywhere near Calgary

bulletpound

found the problem guys, okay so apparently wen using the the oem 85122+(spell) bulbs they are perfectly centered, and almost ALL aftermarket d2s bulbs are not centered exactly making the inside of the projector bowl ( the top can see unless you take headlight apart) chrome was grainy, burnt. which would not reflect any light what so ever. so if anyone wit retros i do NOT recommend getting any other bulb that is not OEM philips. not worth having 6k bulbs or 8k bulbs that will **** up your bowls which would make you buy new projectors.

DaBuzzard

So the bulb burnt the reflector??? Did not think the hid's ran hot enough to do that, gonna file that in the old memory bank.
Only time I have seen that is when a buddy put 100 watt halogens in his fog lights - melted the lenses

Glad you got it figured out, just sorry it's gonna cost more than a relay