T-Nuts and bracing
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
T-Nuts and bracing
First, anyone here use t-nuts instead of regular screws? I was told today that I should buy them because of how heavy my sub is and because it can hold down a sub better...any opinions? Anyone know what size I would need off the top of their head?
Second, if I'm gunna be going through the hassle of taking my big heavy ass box out I was wondering if anyone thinks a top to bottom brace would benefit? I already have one that goes from front to back
Second, if I'm gunna be going through the hassle of taking my big heavy ass box out I was wondering if anyone thinks a top to bottom brace would benefit? I already have one that goes from front to back
Last edited by brickloaf; 12-16-2009 at 03:40 AM. Reason: Cause Im fucking awesome
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
As for the t-nuts, that's the way they say it should be done, however if you don't put them in perfectly there's a good chance you'll screw up your box. Also if there not level and lined up perfect with the holes on the sub then the screws won't go in right and your sub won't sit flush. Most of the good box builders will use a thicker or sometimes 2 pieces of wood on the front or wherever the sub sits, if yours does than I wouldn't worry about
Its up to you, but there's risk vs reward, plus you know what they say..."If it ain't broke, don't fix it" (sounds better in a good redneck accent)
As for the brace, it can't hurt, but the front to back one is the important one. If you end up taking the sub out when you put it back in make sure you flatten out the spots where wood came up when you removed the screws. And if your going to use the same holes use 1 size up screws, MDF tends to strip easy, and try to do all the work you gotta do on it at once, the less you unscrew the sub the better, once its got a nice seal you want to try not to break it unless you really have to.
Nice reason for editing BTW
Its up to you, but there's risk vs reward, plus you know what they say..."If it ain't broke, don't fix it" (sounds better in a good redneck accent)
As for the brace, it can't hurt, but the front to back one is the important one. If you end up taking the sub out when you put it back in make sure you flatten out the spots where wood came up when you removed the screws. And if your going to use the same holes use 1 size up screws, MDF tends to strip easy, and try to do all the work you gotta do on it at once, the less you unscrew the sub the better, once its got a nice seal you want to try not to break it unless you really have to.
Nice reason for editing BTW
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well what's happening now is the screws are SLOWLY coming out and every week or so I'll be have to go back and tighten them again, and one of the holes lost it's grip or whatever you call it (the screw just keeps spinning and never really tightens down).. But I do understand it would be easy to **** up the tnuts but keep In mind that I only have 1 baffle layer of 3/4mdf
and yea I probably won't mess with the bracing but I fan feel the walls flexing on my box, not anything huge but enough to make me want to ask
Well I went out and bought some 10/24 t nut type things but they screw into the wood not just held inplace by forcing it down... Cuz I figured the BTL could probably pull a t nut out of the wood after a while
and yea I probably won't mess with the bracing but I fan feel the walls flexing on my box, not anything huge but enough to make me want to ask
Well I went out and bought some 10/24 t nut type things but they screw into the wood not just held inplace by forcing it down... Cuz I figured the BTL could probably pull a t nut out of the wood after a while
Last edited by brickloaf; 12-16-2009 at 12:09 PM.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
ehh im a little weary of it now because the 8 sub holes are awful close to the edge of the baffle and it would be easy to **** it up.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
im just guesstimating but id say 1 inch wood screws maybe a tad longer
they dont come super loose, but if i stick a screw driver in there i can tighten it back down after a few weeks of playing
seems like steel threads would just do a better job supporting the sub and hold it down tighter for a better seal
they dont come super loose, but if i stick a screw driver in there i can tighten it back down after a few weeks of playing
seems like steel threads would just do a better job supporting the sub and hold it down tighter for a better seal
they dont come super loose, but if i stick a screw driver in there i can tighten it back down after a few weeks of playing
seems like steel threads would just do a better job supporting the sub and hold it down tighter for a better seal
they dont come super loose, but if i stick a screw driver in there i can tighten it back down after a few weeks of playing
seems like steel threads would just do a better job supporting the sub and hold it down tighter for a better seal
Last edited by brickloaf; 12-17-2009 at 04:27 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#10
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
are they course thread or fine thread?
i agree the t nuts sound like a much better mounting system. but the fact u gotta drill out the wood stick the female piece in there then put the bolt thru. I think the main problem is theres no room for error. If the t nut itself isnt lined up with the holes on the sub and the t nuts arent solid in the wood then you will have a worse mounting situation then with normal screws.... i mean look at ur screws now. are they all 100% straight or some of them at an angle?
i agree the t nuts sound like a much better mounting system. but the fact u gotta drill out the wood stick the female piece in there then put the bolt thru. I think the main problem is theres no room for error. If the t nut itself isnt lined up with the holes on the sub and the t nuts arent solid in the wood then you will have a worse mounting situation then with normal screws.... i mean look at ur screws now. are they all 100% straight or some of them at an angle?
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I don't have acctual t-nuts it's a diff kind but you drill the hole (10/24) in my case, put the "nut" on top and you screw it down into the wood, it's basically a screw that fits another screw inside of it
what I plan on doing is leaving the sub in the box in it's normal position when I drill the holes, that way I can atleast be certain that the nuts will line up, but yea pretty much all my screws are mounted in pretty straight not perfect obviously..
what I plan on doing is leaving the sub in the box in it's normal position when I drill the holes, that way I can atleast be certain that the nuts will line up, but yea pretty much all my screws are mounted in pretty straight not perfect obviously..
Last edited by brickloaf; 12-17-2009 at 05:42 AM.
#12
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
right http://www.woodpeck.com/tnut.html + bolt
#15
Junior Member
Join Date: 11-18-08
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Nope it's kinda like a hurricane nut but has big teeth like threads that go all the way up...sorry I don't know what there called I asked for t-nuts and the guy showed me these and said they work much better
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Delta coupe
Pictures & Videos
1
09-30-2015 08:11 AM