t10001bd at 0.5 ohms
t10001bd at 0.5 ohms
soo i just realized i ordered the dual 2 ohm instead of the 4 ohm, so im gunna end up having to run my subs at 0.5 ohms (amp is stable at 0.5). my question is how much watts would it be putting out at 0.5? it does like 1500 at 1 ohm so im thinking like maybe 1750wt?
what do you guys think
what do you guys think
i think you will be able to grill steaks on that amp
Invest in a cooling fan and dont have the trunk closed off. even though its stable at .5 ohm, it will still get hot as hell and heat creates distortion, and can prematurely wear the components of the amp.
cooling mods for your amp, bro.
next, make sure your sub can handle the wattage
then, get/build an enclosure that is within the manufacturer specs for that sub.
cooling mods for your amp, bro.
next, make sure your sub can handle the wattage
then, get/build an enclosure that is within the manufacturer specs for that sub.
i wouldn't recommend that. fried my T30001bd in 3 seconds low volume at .35ohm
what subs are you getting? im going to have some T1ks for cheap soon
not really but if you get anything in there that amp will fry again
what subs are you getting? im going to have some T1ks for cheap soon
not really but if you get anything in there that amp will fry again
Last edited by EmperorJJ1; May 6, 2009 at 12:17 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
well 1 of them has already been shipped to me, and the other one is still at their factory waiting to be shipped so I emailed them asking to switch the one they still have to 4 ohm and when i get the other one in the mail if i could return it for a 4 ohm
wish me luck, im gunna need it
wish me luck, im gunna need it
any of the small t power amps, can handle it... Rockford says they may get a little warmer, but they will unlikley shutoff. We were seeing how much one could take so we brigged a t600-2 at .5 ohm and pounded the **** out of it... as long as you tune it correctly you will be fine, but you are putting more strain on the amp
The lower the ohm load the more stress on the cars electrical system. I think running that amp at .5 ohm would put alot more stress on the alt. If you can get the same power out of a higher final load then do so (IMO) I know its only .5 ohm difference (1ohm compared to .5ohm) but when you get into that level of draw it makes a hell of a difference
Just my 2 cents
Just my 2 cents
im gunna get them switched out for the dual 4's....
just threw in a yellow top today and took out the stocker, and on saturday im gunna go pay $150 (install) + $80 (knukonceptz 1/0g) for the big 3
anyone else think im getting raped by paying 150 for installing wires?
just threw in a yellow top today and took out the stocker, and on saturday im gunna go pay $150 (install) + $80 (knukonceptz 1/0g) for the big 3
anyone else think im getting raped by paying 150 for installing wires?
i would worry more about your alternator. that's a big amp. and don't worry about the fan if its the power series. there made in America not Mexico. i have one pushing 2 t1 12s its fine. oh and take your trunk off because with that amount of bass no amount of dynomat is going to help the cobalt. and those amps are only stable to 1 ohm
only thing i really disagree on is the dynamat part. I've used a ton of second skin and my trunk lid is solid. only rattles are from underneath the rear bumper somewhere. and in comparison its really nothing
yea i got the damplifer pro, get it from ups tomorrow, alreayd ripped all the **** out of my trunk so i can get all that **** installed tomorrow, and im hoping it works cuz these l7s would rattle my trunk off
yea i thought that was prob a good idea, but i didnt get the cutter thing cuz i have like 5 of those at the crib
im hoping i have enough left over from the trunk to do the rear deck, i completly forgot about that when i ordered the trunk kit but my deck rattles like hell
im hoping i have enough left over from the trunk to do the rear deck, i completly forgot about that when i ordered the trunk kit but my deck rattles like hell
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