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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 01:54 PM
  #26  
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What amp, what are you running, at what Ohm?
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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 08:29 PM
  #27  
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Im running a power 1000 limited edition 5ch amp. 4ohms to front and rear speakers and 1 ohm to subs.
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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 09:14 AM
  #28  
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what brand amp?
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Old Jul 2, 2006 | 07:19 PM
  #29  
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go AMPLE AUDIO !!! or better yet US AMPS!!
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Old Jul 2, 2006 | 07:33 PM
  #30  
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If you're on the cheap and just want some more thump go for Power Acoustik, I ran one in my CRX and it was great for the $200 I had put into it. That included sub, amp, and custom box.
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Old Jul 2, 2006 | 10:00 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by black06 ss/sc
If you're on the cheap and just want some more thump go for Power Acoustik, I ran one in my CRX and it was great for the $200 I had put into it. That included sub, amp, and custom box.
i hope that was $200 in the box
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 09:43 AM
  #32  
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Of course you can put anything in a hatch and it will bang hard, cant compare a hatch to a trunk. My dad has a 95civic hatch with 2 04CVR 12s with a 400 watt kenwood amp(one blown channel 800w max) and it hits at least 146db with regular battery and no cap the lights don't dim at all. and when we put the same thing in another car its sounded like crap.
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 10:07 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by sumkidinphilly
any reviews on the jlw6 v2s? and im just wonderin what amp yous would suggest for 2 of them

Here is what i would do. the new 12w3v3d4s just came out they incorporate the best of both worlds. they dont take much power like the lower end jl audio subs, however they have alot of the w6 and w7 design. if you pick up 2 of those your almost paying the price of one w6, then pick up a 500.1jl amp the reason for the jl amp over most ams is well because they have different insides. Part of that is because of the rip system. which you can read here http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_a...php?page_id=46.

basically an example would be.

if you have a regular amp and specs state at 14.5v it will put out 100 rms
your car only puts out 13-14.5v you will sometimes recive that 100 rms
also if you have a voltage spike then you could lose pwer to the subs or gaine a few which could blow the sub.

with the rip system on a jl amp
you will consistatantly see those 100rms the amp has a system kinda like a capacitor that keeps it charged up to 14.5v

so that would be the amp

as for the subs 2 w3v3d4s would give you more of an spl then what one single sub would do

so heres the setup i would do

2 12w3v3d4s
1 500/1 jl slash series amp

will cost you less then 2 w6s and a 1000/1 amp

atleast thats what i would do coming from someone that sold jl audio about 4 weeks ago
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 10:11 AM
  #34  
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true or you could go with another brand, that would be the cheaper and most beneficial way. Unless you want to spend your money on JL.
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 10:17 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by SRT-S2K
This is a RF Power series T1000.1 amp 799.99 on their site

500 W x 1 @ 4 Ohms
750 W x 1 @ 2 Ohms
1000 W x 1 @ 1 Ohm

notice when the Ohms drop the power increaces!


Here is your JL amp

1000 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm - 4 ohm (11V-14.5V) for 999.95

And the lower your Ohm loads will give you alot more bass and alot harder hit! Get an amp that can handle at least 1 Ohm stable or lower.
Hey pal that 1000/1 is a regulated power supply amp. thats 1000@1.5 ohms, 1000@ 2ohms, 1000 @4 ohms. JL kicks ass!
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 10:31 AM
  #36  
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http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=221
Just in case someone doesn't believe me on that they can look there. "1000 watts RMS@ 1.5-4 ohms also that is at 11-14.5 volts. ALOT of companys rate their stuff only at 14.5 V and the when you get it in a real situation where your volts drop the amp performs like crap. Sorry to go off subject with these guys but I work at an audio shop and we sell Alpine, Kenwood, Eclipse, and JL. Of all my experience, it is very hard to beat JL.

Anyway, w6's are very nice. If you are already forking out the cash, yes I know JL is pricey but its worth it, you might want to check out the w7's. W7's are by far JL's best woofer yet!
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 10:39 AM
  #37  
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What youre saying is true but if you had another amp and increased voltage and increased your pre-out volatge and lower the Ohm load then JL wouldn't stand a chance. All I'm saying is that JL is good in their own way. I have a JL amp so it's not like I'm biast.
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 10:59 AM
  #38  
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This is the average wattage for these amps, I haven't had many T10001's come in but I do see these a lot

for the T20001 id say around 2500 watts RMS
for the T30001 id day around 3200 watts RMS
and the T20001 is only a few 100 dollars more than the JL 1000.1
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 01:07 PM
  #39  
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If you are looking to save any money, since you just bought to over priced subs, I would look to Lanzar Opti series. Yes, Lanzar makes some lower end stuff but the Opti series is very nice. These amps put out what they are rated for and they go down to 1 ohm and they are stable. You don't always get the best stuff from the best name brands.

As far as sound quality goes, subs don't need the best of the best quality that is why we (for the most part) run them off of class D amps rather than A/B amps.

You wont find any better for the price. This is probably the best bang for your buck amp that is still a good amp internally.
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 05:32 PM
  #40  
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First what alot of people are not realizing is jl audio has a regulated power source on there slash series amps

What that means is if you put that t series amp, from rockford fosgate, against the jl 1000.1

If you have a problem with power in your car you will not see all that power from the the t series amp. the jl amp will always put up that power until you turn off the ignition.

Now if were talking about power Alpine just put out a new amp line that i belive kicks the 1000.1 out of the water for price and benefits.

This is not to say that rockford fosgate sucks I personally think there t series amps are sexy cleaner then any amp out there, and i hope that they get back on the wagon and start producing some great amps again like back in the old days. If anyone wants that linke for alpines new amps let me know and i'll paste it.
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 05:40 PM
  #41  
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The new alpine amps are great. They are small and they are not fan cooled if I am thinking of the same ones he is talking about. They dissipate heat great even thought they are not fan cooled. Also one of the great perks for them is they are all the same size. No matter what modle you get they are all the same size. Alpine did that purposely so that you can stack the amps and they screw into each other.

Also RF has a hybrid amp that has its own power supply. It may only be a concept but I read something about it. This amp will always get 14V and it has something like a slow discharging cap built into it. I also read that it was going to be like $5000 or something crazy but was 4000W RMS.
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 06:08 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by SRT-S2K
Top of box where it can breathe, out in open. Just somewhere where its visible and you can easily see it. Don't try to hide it or cover it with wood, esp. if your running 2Ohm or less.
Or you can put the amp under your seats and turn on the A/C
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 07:22 PM
  #43  
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But what about the heater?
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 10:47 PM
  #44  
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Rockford fosgate has built an amp that is pushing 15000rms jbl has also built an amp that is putting massive power only problem is whos going to buy it and what car can handle that
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 07:41 PM
  #45  
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Its also 20k so I dont think they would have to worry about what would power it. If some1 bought it I'm sure they know what there doin.
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 09:01 PM
  #46  
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just installed JL 10w7 and the JL 500/1 mono amp and this is the ****. I went wih 1 10 cause i didn't want to much and i listen to rock music. I got a awesome deal and i recomend this setup to everyone whos got a desent bank role
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 09:03 AM
  #47  
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how much did you spend?
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