Why can't you have a constant 12v to a meth kit?
I don't really understand why you can't do it. I mean, the pump doesn't come on till XX psi anyway, so what would it matter? May be a stupid question, but I'm just curious.
well the only reason i ask is because yesterday when i was testing out the meth kit (determining what PSI it kicks in on) i wired it straight to my amplifier. forgot to disconnect it last night and left it wire up all night. no problems tho. was just worried about frying my pump.
well, it's rated at 12v which is also what the power wiring going to my amp is. later on today or tomorrow im going to wire it up through my car to my fuse panel and tap into an existing fuse.
"Whats wrong with your system?!"
"Nothing. I'm just sprayin'!"
haha
12V+ isn't what it's rated at; virtually everything in the car runs on 12V, that's the voltage. Amps, as in amperes, measure the current, as in how much it's drawing at said voltage.
this.
go look at one of ur fuse boxes. u will see different fuses.
all have about 12v going thru them,
but some pull more power than others.
ur meth kit is rated to pull a certain amount (amps).
u hook it up directly to a battery and u will FRY ur wiring
go look at one of ur fuse boxes. u will see different fuses.
all have about 12v going thru them,
but some pull more power than others.
ur meth kit is rated to pull a certain amount (amps).
u hook it up directly to a battery and u will FRY ur wiring
Do you know how a relay works? If not, now is a good time to learn.
http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm
Use a low amp source (switched power from somewhere) to switch a high amp component (in this case the meth pump) on. Same way an audio amp uses the remote to turn on.
It's pretty simple, here is a source for relays:
http://www.wiringproducts.com/index1...FRwwawod6T4gVA
http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm
Use a low amp source (switched power from somewhere) to switch a high amp component (in this case the meth pump) on. Same way an audio amp uses the remote to turn on.
It's pretty simple, here is a source for relays:
http://www.wiringproducts.com/index1...FRwwawod6T4gVA
it probably needs a lil bit of power and the you can wire the relay so it switches on and off with the car. taping something like the sunroof fuse, wiper fuse is fine but if ur pulling some power ur gonna want a relay
Another reason you wouldn't want the possibility that a live pump could come on is that if the engine is not running and the pump activated due to a bad pressure switch, variable controller, electrical short, etc., you'd fill up the intake path with water. That would more than likely hrydrolock the engine when you started the car. It's bad enough trying to prevent that from happening with check valves and other devices on some cars.
I'd also suggest using a relay off a dedicated power wire. Most of the common water/alky kits use a Shurflo pump and it can draw a decent amount of current (i.e. amperage, or "amps", which the total number of electrons moving over the wire while voltage is the "force" pushing those electrons). If you tried to power the pump directly off another electrical circuit such as the cigarette lighter or ignition wire, when the pump starts up it will likely draw too much addition current since the circuit wasn't designed to have a pump hanging off it. This is what causes the fuse to blow in order to prevent the wiring from overheating and causing a fire.
If you already have a very large gauge fused power wire off the battery going to a distribution block somewhere near the amps and are not taxing that wire's capacity with your amplifiers, you may be able to connect a relay to that wire that in turn powers the water injection pump. The relay is basically a device that uses a small amount of current to control and switch on-and-off a larger amount of current.
For example in many cars you wouldn't want 20 amps of current the headlamps need to go through the small switch on the turn signal column. Instead, they design it so that only a few hundred milliamps has to go through the headlamp switch and that current/voltage is then used to turn the relay on or off which in turn allows the 20 amps coming off the battery to flow to the headlamps. Think of it as similar to a pressure switch but instead of a certain amount of boost turning it on, the relay turns on when a certain voltage/current is applied.
Since your amplifier wire is always live, if you have a relay sitting off the amplifier wire going to the pump (or control device for the water injection kit) you'd then have another connector on the relay that when it receives power turns on the internal switch inside the relay so that power can flow to the pump. Because the control side of the relay only requires a very small current draw you can safely tap into another circuit that comes on with the ignition switch. Then when you turn the car on, that provides power to that side of the relay and it in turn switches on the "switch" providing power to the pump. Turn the car off and the relay goes off and removes power to the pump.
The down side about doing it that way is that you may induce noise into the amplifiers. You can try it but if you get noise might need to run another fused line directly off the battery. Also ensure you have good ground wires for both the amplifier(s) and the water pump.
I'd also suggest using a relay off a dedicated power wire. Most of the common water/alky kits use a Shurflo pump and it can draw a decent amount of current (i.e. amperage, or "amps", which the total number of electrons moving over the wire while voltage is the "force" pushing those electrons). If you tried to power the pump directly off another electrical circuit such as the cigarette lighter or ignition wire, when the pump starts up it will likely draw too much addition current since the circuit wasn't designed to have a pump hanging off it. This is what causes the fuse to blow in order to prevent the wiring from overheating and causing a fire.
If you already have a very large gauge fused power wire off the battery going to a distribution block somewhere near the amps and are not taxing that wire's capacity with your amplifiers, you may be able to connect a relay to that wire that in turn powers the water injection pump. The relay is basically a device that uses a small amount of current to control and switch on-and-off a larger amount of current.
For example in many cars you wouldn't want 20 amps of current the headlamps need to go through the small switch on the turn signal column. Instead, they design it so that only a few hundred milliamps has to go through the headlamp switch and that current/voltage is then used to turn the relay on or off which in turn allows the 20 amps coming off the battery to flow to the headlamps. Think of it as similar to a pressure switch but instead of a certain amount of boost turning it on, the relay turns on when a certain voltage/current is applied.
Since your amplifier wire is always live, if you have a relay sitting off the amplifier wire going to the pump (or control device for the water injection kit) you'd then have another connector on the relay that when it receives power turns on the internal switch inside the relay so that power can flow to the pump. Because the control side of the relay only requires a very small current draw you can safely tap into another circuit that comes on with the ignition switch. Then when you turn the car on, that provides power to that side of the relay and it in turn switches on the "switch" providing power to the pump. Turn the car off and the relay goes off and removes power to the pump.
The down side about doing it that way is that you may induce noise into the amplifiers. You can try it but if you get noise might need to run another fused line directly off the battery. Also ensure you have good ground wires for both the amplifier(s) and the water pump.
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