Why do you think they invented blow-off valves!

P.S. My M62 would burn that thing out at half throttle

 

Electric Supercharger = P.O.S.

 

WEll if you had a pushbutton switch it could b eused liek nitrous. Shift and as you do let off the button then push the button once your in gear.

I honestly doubt it flows enough to make a huge difference on a engine over 2 liters. I wouldn't own one. And it's quality seems suspect when it can't suck air through a stock filter.

To each their own though. Mount it up and tell us how it is by the seat of your pants. And at a dyno. Debunk the myth Snow, and if it's a scam I'm not laughing with you, just at you. :P

 

If I remember right, the one that snobird posted actually uses a WOT switch. So as long as the car is floored it is on, any other time it is off.

 

C'mon everyone...all we need is an electric leafblower!!! I'd install one on mine if I could figure out where to plug it in!

 

Just hook a power inverter to your battery. $50 for the inverter plus whatever you want to spend on a leaf blower.

 

ohhhh god not this agen!

please ohhh please dont get such a thing!

save the money and buy a REAL unit some day soon...the end result will be much better...

to thouse who are fighting and bitchin at one another over this thred i'll say this...think what you want and buy what you want....but flame me at YOUR own risk for what i just said....i will back up my comments if need be.

 

LMAO...I just can't get over the fact that everyone's getting worked up over a glorified leafblower!!

We had a great pic of an ACTUAL leafblower installed in a Fiero...I wish I still had that...It'd be appropriate here!

C'mon all...forget the BS, and let's not even DISCUSS glorified leafblowers...let alone argue over them!

 

It works with Energizer batteries! It keeps going, and going, and going....

 

Yeah...That e-charger pulls 60 Amps. Approximatly as much as a 700-800 watt amplifier!

 

lol why are you guys bitching at snobird? he's not selling this ****.... he actually said quite the opposite, that he'd never sell one

 

it seems like a money pit as you can only get 1.7 psi max and then it's useless... I'd get real forced induction.

 

you will have to excuse kadumel, he likes to bash everyone. im shocked his account has not been deleted yet.

 

i think it would benafit auto trany divers most, we dont have to let off the gas to shift.

 

I've got the super e-ram on my 2.4l auto. Here's the straight scoop.



You can only see the top one from the photo, but the other is mounted on the end of the CAI, under the bumper.

The company guarantees a 9% increase in hp. They also claim that it helps a turbo to spool faster, so it's not a waste if you decide to upgrade later.

Don't waste your money on the e-bay junk. This is why:

It takes horsepower to compress air. The little e-bay motors draw too few amps to work.

Each e-ram draw 60 amps (1.1hp). They spin their 10 metal blade axial compressor at over 25,000 rpm producing 3lbs of thrust. In free air, they would flow 850cfm. Your engine is trying to draw about 300cfm at full throttle - the difference results in 1.7lbs boost or aprox 11% increase in air density. The trick to getting any hp gains is by adding the appropriate amount of fuel, which is tough if you don't have a map sensor. The maf will only add more fuel when it senses greater air velocity, not density. You could add a stand alone FMU, but it would probably cost more than the e-ram - not recommended!

I didn't really notice a large increase in power when they kicked in until I got my wester's tune. I told them what I had and asked them to add fuel at WOT, which is the only time the e-rams run. Their small, rare-earth motors are overvolted so they only have a 30 second duty cycle.

If you do decide to get an e-ram, be advised that the small relay that they send with the unit is junk. It looks like it a 25-30 amp relay at best!. I ditched the 2 small relays that came with the unit and used a starter relay that I picked up at the local auto parts store.

Mucho difference! I haven't dyno'd it yet, but from seat of the pants, you can really tell when they kick in - almost as good as vtec...Ha, Ha

 

bummer, 2.2L dont have PCM tuning yet. i did post on tunerpro.net and asked them to make a defenition for us 2.2L owners because it dont look like HP tuners care about the 2.2L owners. tunerpro.net has some tunes for the 05 WRX so i dont see why they wouldnt beable to attempt at this one.

 

unless you're talking about a thomas knight electric supercharger, don't waste your money.

http://www.boosthead.com/

 

Thomas Knight has a killer electric supercharger.

I wish I had one. The only problem is price.

Let's see $1,695 for the electric supercharger by itself. Plus add about $1,300 more for intake plumbing with flapper valve, batterys, cabling, relays, switches, charging system upgrade and an FMU.

I would put this $3,000 towards a basic turbo setup myself.

What about cost effectiveness? Assuming a 35% hp boost from Thomas Knight's setup on a 2.4l (more than that and you would need intercooling for even more moola),
$3,000/60hp = $50/hp (aprox.)

Lets look at my setup:

$600 e-ram + $400 wester's tune = $1000. Hp gains: 16 from Wester's tune + 9% (min. guarantee) from e-ram 15hp = 31hp conservatively. $1,000/31hp = $32/hp

But seriously, how can you compare a $1,000 mod to a $3,000 mod?

Just my opinion.

 

just putting that out there that there ARE electric blowers that actually work.

 

The reason they say you need to put a k&n filter on them is if you dont you wont see an increase in horse power.A k&n will prolly get you 6hp or possibly more.The only way you will get a decent increase in power is to compress the air going in to the intake.Your not going to do that with a fan and 12 volts.

If it really worked one of the auto makers would be useing them.

It should be against the law to sell them as a performance device.

 

Well I thought when you lift the throttle to shift, the butterfly in the intake will close, therefore not letting any air through, whether the fan is on or not? Not arguing the fact, just curious

 

You are correct. Those computer fans or a/c blowers that run all the time can't possibly work - all they will do is hurt performance.

Any electric F/I device powerful enough to actually work - even a little - must be connected to a WOT switch so that when you let off the gas to shift it doesn't lean out the engine. Yes, you can make hp with 12 volts, but you need a lot of amps. a 24-48v set-up, like Thomas Knight uses is a much better, but then you've got the problems of charging the extra batteries, the extra weight and expense of the batteries, cabling, etc.

Plus, think about it. My e-rams (that actually do produce a small hp gain) draw 120 amps when activated. Could you imagine driving down the road drawing an additional 120 amps all the time? That's almost as much current as 2 starter motors draw! It would run your battery down and fry your alternator in no time. As it is, when my e-rams kick in my lights dim. I'm thinking of going to an Optima red top or an Odyssey 925 battery and running an extra ground wire to make up for the extra current draw.

So far, my e-rams are holding up well, but electric supercharging is definately not a bolt-on mod. There is no easy, quick and/or cheap way to add extra power through F/I.

Anyone who says anything differently is lying. I think that there should be a way to recover your money from the junk peddlers without taking them to court. Nobody is going to hire a lawyer for being ripped off for $40-$50 bucks and they know it. Maybe if we all reported them to the FTC for false advertising they would pull their products and refund everyone they scammed.

The fastest and cheapest way to add extra hp (at WOT only) is nitrous - but then you open up another can of worms...

 

If your pullin 120 amps you prolly lost any performance increase you think you might have from the drag on the elec system.

If you had 600 bucks to spend buy a turbo.Build the rest.

If you feel an increase in power its prolly from the the fans causing a restriction and when they do kick in you think it helps.

I cant believe anyone in there right mind would buy one.Or even two.

spend the 600 on a nitrous kit,even a small shot will get more than a fan ever will.

Save your money and spend it on the stuff that really works.

FAN'S

 

and this isnt electric its belt driven,but It prolly works.Would have been a better investment.

 

I can't get your thumbnail to work. Please check it out.

Yeah, HP/dollar is pretty low compared to Nitrous. But I'm one of those who feels that getting hp from anything other than gasoline is cheating (with the possible exception of a water/meth kit). How would you feel lining up against a top-fuel dragster or funny at a light? Would that be a fair race? That's how I feel about nitrous.

I agree, turbo is the way to go. One may be in my future soon, when Hahn gets around to a kit for the 2.4 auto. I can't build one myself because the auto transmission torque management hasn't been worked out yet for the 100 extra hp the turbo makes - that's what's holding Hahn up. Meanwhile...

I think that comparing the e-ram to any type of true F/I setup is rediculous. First off it's a fraction of the cost of a $4,000 turbo kit. Compare it's price to that of a new hood with a hood scoop and ram-air ducting. As for performance, don't think supercharger - think of it like a ram-air induction system that pulls in 140+ mph air while you are sitting still. Two 10 bladed axial-ducted metal turbines spin at 25,300 rpm, producing 3 lbs of thrust (800cfm) each - that's no computer fan ), True, they only produce 1.7lbs boost as they don't compress air well. Comparing them to a low velocity open fan (like most of the junk out there,) is like comparing an open bladed propeller on a Cesna to a turbine on jet engine -yes, they both have vanes, but that's the only similarity. By the way, you have vanes in your s/c, don't you? My e-rams only run at WOT so, unlike your belt driven s/c, I'm not burning extra fuel and putting extra wear and tear on my engine when I don't want/need to.

Do the unmoving fans cause intake restriction when not in use? Some, I suppose, but the partially opened throttle body causes much more. I guess you might notice it if you were to almost floor it, stopping just before the e-rams kick in - but who drives that way? I don't.

As far as pulling power away from your engine, I guess you are referring to alternator drag. Alternator drag is more or less constant, regardless of the load. When you turn on a high-powered stereo you shouldn't notice any decrease in performance. If you do, it's not wired correctly. Going to a larger alternator would produce more drag, but the e-rams are used so infrequently that this is not necessary. I think it might run a little better (get more current to the e-rams) if I grounded "the Big 3" better, which I plan on doing shortly.

If I were going to choose a belt driven s/c setup, I would get a centrifugal model with a very large rising rate (little/no boost at at low-med rpm and good boost up-top only.) But that's my personality - to each his own. I've never been accused of being in my right mind before - why start now? Besides, I like being different!