well first off i am wondering what the best type of piping for a downpipe would be/

secondly i got my turbo in and the mani outlet to turbo inlet doesnt lay quite flat...im not sure if its the turbo or the manifold...i think the manifold flange is a bit warped but anyhow...ill just have to take it to the machine shop and let them do their thing...if it is the turbo itslef can i have that machined too or will it mess it up?

thirdly the inside of the mani looks a little rough to me but then again i have never seen the inside of a turbo manifold or any manifold for that matter...tell me what you all think of the gap on the inlet/outlet and the inside of the mani...

Gap:




Inside of mani:

 

It's probably the flange on the manifold, machine shop can fix that up for you. As for downpipe I'm just ordering a bunch of mandrel bends and welding them up as I go. That's about all a person can do.

 

im having an exhaust shop do the downpipe...so i guess just the same piping that they use to do catbacks with will work?

 

Yup, same ****

 

the inside of the mani is going to look rough simply because it's hard as hell to get in there and port it out...and what i am seeing is that the person that welded it isn't an experience stainless steel welder because there is no *********** on the bottom side or there would be a bead of weld almost identical to the bead on the top....the flange did warp during welding, again because the person is not an experience nor a certified welder and they did it fast...had to to warp 1/2" flange like that....machine shop can do it no problem, actually if you were closer i could do it in about 20 minutes with minimal material removal for free...as for machining the turbo itself, you would have to take it apart to avoid any risk of introducing material into the turbine stream which will almost always cause premature failure of the components....

one more thing mike, what size intake tubes are you going to use....that's something i need to know so i can start machining these MAF plates...

 

I know the SS/SC guys have to use 3" pipe so that we don't max the Maf table out. I'm using and LS2 Maf though.

 

how thick should the pipe be? whats the thinnest you could go .. no i'm not trying to go cheap i' just have an idea in my head but it only works if i have the right gauge steel

 

I don't really think it matters what gauge it is. But don't quote me on that.

 

too late... mUAHAHAHA

well i have 16 gauge right now ... but i don't want it to break down due to heat and i know thats an issue.. . my current plan is procharged.. but i just want to check somethings to leave my options open

 

I think you'll be ok.

 

vulcan said the manifold was welded ona test run with new welding equipment the bought so i guess thats why its a bit sloppy...i dont mind theres some machince shops around here so ill just take it to them...any idea of how much that might run?

as for the maf plates faceless...i was thinking 2.5 ought to be sufficient...what do you think?

 

I dunno how the 2.4s are making out with the smaller pipe, like I said the 2.0s with 2.5" have maf issues.

 

well i believe that hahn kits use 3" ( at least the original 2.4 proto did) so maybe i should just go with that...afterall it will be flowing alot of air(to put it simply)

 

I'd go 3" just to be safe. Not sure uf your Maf is the same as ours or not. Never looked into.

 

not really sure...prob some similarities...anways yea i guess ill just go with 3"...unless someone here has any knowledge to offer

 

3" intake pipe is the standard across the board for CAI, and as for the welding job, shouldn't make too much of a difference unless you run it WOT all day long and heat it red hot. i'll make a 3" inch and it should be able to fit on a 2.5" with only a little overhang...but then again it's going to be welded on

for the quick machine job like just taking a light cut across the top, you are probably looking about 50 or so. unless they are ****** and charge you "labor" cost etc. the setup to cut that on a manual milling machine would literally take 5 minutes and the cut would take about 10 minutes. That kind of setup doesn't require alot of precision, in fact they would probably clamp it down and use a level on the flange to get it about right, take a light touch off on the low spot of the flange, back it out, take about a 0.010" to 0.020" cut until it's smooth and consistent all the way across. With a good face mill and the right speeds/feeds....10 minutes, 15 minutes if you want a brilliant shine.

Firing up the CNC machine tonight woohoo!

 

ok khaos...sounds good to me...hit me up with the results

 

ok i got the mnaifold all taken care of...**** cost me 42.50 to be machined down...i think he said he had to take almost 1/16th off to get it flat...needless to say the turbo flanges meet up perfect

 

Turns out my flanges are also all bent. All three of them. And now I got a call from the machine shop saying they somehow fucked the manifold up. They better be fixxing it for me.

 

that sucks bro..i looked at mine and both the inlet side of the header and the outlet side of the header(turbo flange) were warped...machined down the turbo flange and its good to go now...however the inlet side is a bit warped on the driver side... the design of the header gives each exhaust port it own flange so im thinking that maybe it will allow enough play and draw it self down when i tighten it down onto the studs

 

Ya, mine had to be machined on all three flanges. I guess the guy at the shop said a piece flew out of his machine and crushed the manifold piping. He says it's gonna be good as new when he's done though. So I'll be happy if it it! LOL

 

damn that sucks...o well if hes fixin i then id have to say your good...cost me 42.50 just to have one flange machined

 

Got my manifold back. Didn't cost me anything since they dinged it up a bit. Not too worried about that. The way the machinist was talking on the phone sounded like he messed it up totally but he really just scratched it up. Just gotta wait for the rest of my parts to come in and start building.

 

lucky...lol...what parts are you waiting on?...what size dp are you using?

i want a 3" downpipe...but the biggest i could flange i could find was like a 2 1/4 or 2.5 or something....just curious do i have to have a converter from 2.25/2.5 into 3" or can i just weld the 3" pipe right onto that flange?

 

I have the manifold, oil lines and SC delete plate right now. Everything else is in the mail. Running a 3" DP.