Turbo Manifold Help.
Turbo Manifold Help.
Hi Guys,
I've been trying to finish up my turbo build for a very long time now. Definitely wish I just bought a Hahn Kit or something...
I sold my supercharger kit to some kid in my home town who I cannot find. He took my old Manifold /w the female connectors attached, and
didn't bother giving them back. It's my fault for letting them go, but I dont know if I need them, what they do... and where to get them.
Hopefully someone can help me out! I bought a Saab Turbo Manifold, and it's confusing as hell too! Here are some pictures to help explain my
issue.
The first picture, I have a Hahn Manifold showing 2 highlighted connectors. What do they do? Where can i get them? Where do I connect them
to my currently Saab Turbo Manifold (I Only see one spot for it.)

The rest of the pictures, I have my Saab Intake Manifold. It has a bunch of different connectors that confused me.



To add to this, I am wondering how I can make my 2.0l Alt & Tensioner work with my turbo kit. From my understanding I am to use a 2.2l Alt
and Tensioner + Belt. I've looked for one at few local wreckers, and I cannot find anything. Not a single 2.2l cobalt hhr or g5 avail to pick and
pull.
Regards,
Michael
I've been trying to finish up my turbo build for a very long time now. Definitely wish I just bought a Hahn Kit or something...
I sold my supercharger kit to some kid in my home town who I cannot find. He took my old Manifold /w the female connectors attached, and
didn't bother giving them back. It's my fault for letting them go, but I dont know if I need them, what they do... and where to get them.
Hopefully someone can help me out! I bought a Saab Turbo Manifold, and it's confusing as hell too! Here are some pictures to help explain my
issue.
The first picture, I have a Hahn Manifold showing 2 highlighted connectors. What do they do? Where can i get them? Where do I connect them
to my currently Saab Turbo Manifold (I Only see one spot for it.)

The rest of the pictures, I have my Saab Intake Manifold. It has a bunch of different connectors that confused me.



To add to this, I am wondering how I can make my 2.0l Alt & Tensioner work with my turbo kit. From my understanding I am to use a 2.2l Alt
and Tensioner + Belt. I've looked for one at few local wreckers, and I cannot find anything. Not a single 2.2l cobalt hhr or g5 avail to pick and
pull.
Regards,
Michael
The sensor on the left, you will need. Its your MAP sensor. The one on the right you don't necessarily need, iirc. For setting up your manifold, you can talk to "jimbos'ss" or "Maxim_x"... I believe they both run that manifold.
As far as the Alternator set-up goes, I'll just quote my friend Kennyspec, to simplify things:
There really is 4 ways to do this.
1. use a dummy pully where the SC pully was. This setup uses the stock belt and requires no other modifications other than bolting up the dummy pully.
2. Use the 2.2 Alt and belt tensioner from a 2.2 This setup requires the alt pigtail to be swapped (from what i have been told, never checked on the pigtail though) and apparently the 2.2 alt is weaker than the 2.0 alt. There is a curved bracket behind the alt that the stock supercharger tensioner was bolted to. This tensioner us no longer used and the curved bracket behind the alt is no longer needed and may be removed. If the curved bracket is removed the alternator bolts are now too long and must be cut down and then threaded more as they have a unthreaded shoulder on them. Or just get shorter bolts. By about a inch i believe
3. Take off the 2.0 alt and get the clutch on it welded and use the 2.2 tensioner and belt. (the reason for this is the new belt routing causes the alt to spin backwards and for some stupid reason it has a 1 way clutch on it.) you still need to do all the bs with the bolts and removing the curved alt bracket as written in option 2.
4. (i think that this is the easiest option) weld the 2.0 alt and use the tensioner from a 2.2 KEEP the curved bracket on the alt and just grind off the little stub that the old SC tensioner was attached to. the little stub hits the belt with its new routing. No messing around with bolts is needed.
As far as the Alternator set-up goes, I'll just quote my friend Kennyspec, to simplify things:
There really is 4 ways to do this.
1. use a dummy pully where the SC pully was. This setup uses the stock belt and requires no other modifications other than bolting up the dummy pully.
2. Use the 2.2 Alt and belt tensioner from a 2.2 This setup requires the alt pigtail to be swapped (from what i have been told, never checked on the pigtail though) and apparently the 2.2 alt is weaker than the 2.0 alt. There is a curved bracket behind the alt that the stock supercharger tensioner was bolted to. This tensioner us no longer used and the curved bracket behind the alt is no longer needed and may be removed. If the curved bracket is removed the alternator bolts are now too long and must be cut down and then threaded more as they have a unthreaded shoulder on them. Or just get shorter bolts. By about a inch i believe
3. Take off the 2.0 alt and get the clutch on it welded and use the 2.2 tensioner and belt. (the reason for this is the new belt routing causes the alt to spin backwards and for some stupid reason it has a 1 way clutch on it.) you still need to do all the bs with the bolts and removing the curved alt bracket as written in option 2.
4. (i think that this is the easiest option) weld the 2.0 alt and use the tensioner from a 2.2 KEEP the curved bracket on the alt and just grind off the little stub that the old SC tensioner was attached to. the little stub hits the belt with its new routing. No messing around with bolts is needed.
what he said if u only have one connection just connect both sensors with a T and then run the line to that one only line u have off the intake manifold. thats how i have my sensors with my new intake manifold from rdfabs becase they made it that way to have less stuff on the IM and make it look simple and clean
all 4 of those tubes are vacuum fittings, i use the top left one for my meth boost switch, the top right i use for my fuel pressure regulator, neither are needed unless you use those items. the bottom ones i use for the BOV and the brake booster. your map sensor will fit in the port directly to the right of the throttle body, will need to make a custom bracket and drill the hole a little deeper. also will want to use a thicker O-ring on the map sensor.
the pulley delete can be done a couple of ways, personally i use a rebel autowerks pulley delete pulley. you can also use a saab alternator with saab belt and tensioner. theres other ways listed above as well
jim
the pulley delete can be done a couple of ways, personally i use a rebel autowerks pulley delete pulley. you can also use a saab alternator with saab belt and tensioner. theres other ways listed above as well
jim
Is there a different shop where I can buy the dummy pulley? Rebel Autoworx would take 3-4 weeks....
Thanks everyone!!!
Would i be able to just use the one MAP sensor?
Thanks everyone!!!
Would i be able to just use the one MAP sensor?
Last edited by MLeclair; Apr 11, 2010 at 06:05 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Supercharger inlet pressure sensor is not necessary. I put the map sensor iin the SAAB map sensor location. You have to raise it up with a teflon washer and some RTV to seal it to keep it from bottoming out.
You see the hole with the 2 threaded bolt holes near the narrow vac port. It goes there and you just use one existing bolt hole. But, you have to raise it up with a washer to keep it from bottoming out.
I know it sounds ghetto but I used a piece of silicon from an old coupler and cut it in a circle and drilled a hole out that would fit tight against the MAP sensor. The covered it with RTV and it's worked fine for over a year.
You see the hole with the 2 threaded bolt holes near the narrow vac port. It goes there and you just use one existing bolt hole. But, you have to raise it up with a washer to keep it from bottoming out.
I know it sounds ghetto but I used a piece of silicon from an old coupler and cut it in a circle and drilled a hole out that would fit tight against the MAP sensor. The covered it with RTV and it's worked fine for over a year.
The sensor on the left, you will need. Its your MAP sensor. The one on the right you don't necessarily need, iirc. For setting up your manifold, you can talk to "jimbos'ss" or "Maxim_x"... I believe they both run that manifold.
As far as the Alternator set-up goes, I'll just quote my friend Kennyspec, to simplify things:
There really is 4 ways to do this.
1. use a dummy pully where the SC pully was. This setup uses the stock belt and requires no other modifications other than bolting up the dummy pully.
2. Use the 2.2 Alt and belt tensioner from a 2.2 This setup requires the alt pigtail to be swapped (from what i have been told, never checked on the pigtail though) and apparently the 2.2 alt is weaker than the 2.0 alt. There is a curved bracket behind the alt that the stock supercharger tensioner was bolted to. This tensioner us no longer used and the curved bracket behind the alt is no longer needed and may be removed. If the curved bracket is removed the alternator bolts are now too long and must be cut down and then threaded more as they have a unthreaded shoulder on them. Or just get shorter bolts. By about a inch i believe
3. Take off the 2.0 alt and get the clutch on it welded and use the 2.2 tensioner and belt. (the reason for this is the new belt routing causes the alt to spin backwards and for some stupid reason it has a 1 way clutch on it.) you still need to do all the bs with the bolts and removing the curved alt bracket as written in option 2.
4. (i think that this is the easiest option) weld the 2.0 alt and use the tensioner from a 2.2 KEEP the curved bracket on the alt and just grind off the little stub that the old SC tensioner was attached to. the little stub hits the belt with its new routing. No messing around with bolts is needed.
As far as the Alternator set-up goes, I'll just quote my friend Kennyspec, to simplify things:
There really is 4 ways to do this.
1. use a dummy pully where the SC pully was. This setup uses the stock belt and requires no other modifications other than bolting up the dummy pully.
2. Use the 2.2 Alt and belt tensioner from a 2.2 This setup requires the alt pigtail to be swapped (from what i have been told, never checked on the pigtail though) and apparently the 2.2 alt is weaker than the 2.0 alt. There is a curved bracket behind the alt that the stock supercharger tensioner was bolted to. This tensioner us no longer used and the curved bracket behind the alt is no longer needed and may be removed. If the curved bracket is removed the alternator bolts are now too long and must be cut down and then threaded more as they have a unthreaded shoulder on them. Or just get shorter bolts. By about a inch i believe
3. Take off the 2.0 alt and get the clutch on it welded and use the 2.2 tensioner and belt. (the reason for this is the new belt routing causes the alt to spin backwards and for some stupid reason it has a 1 way clutch on it.) you still need to do all the bs with the bolts and removing the curved alt bracket as written in option 2.
4. (i think that this is the easiest option) weld the 2.0 alt and use the tensioner from a 2.2 KEEP the curved bracket on the alt and just grind off the little stub that the old SC tensioner was attached to. the little stub hits the belt with its new routing. No messing around with bolts is needed.
You said the curved bracket behind the alt can be removed because I will not be using the Supercharger Tensioner. Is it a must? If I leave the bracket, would I have to worry about getting new bolts? This part just confuses me a bit.
Mike
Supercharger inlet pressure sensor is not necessary. I put the map sensor iin the SAAB map sensor location. You have to raise it up with a teflon washer and some RTV to seal it to keep it from bottoming out.
You see the hole with the 2 threaded bolt holes near the narrow vac port. It goes there and you just use one existing bolt hole. But, you have to raise it up with a washer to keep it from bottoming out.
I know it sounds ghetto but I used a piece of silicon from an old coupler and cut it in a circle and drilled a hole out that would fit tight against the MAP sensor. The covered it with RTV and it's worked fine for over a year.
You see the hole with the 2 threaded bolt holes near the narrow vac port. It goes there and you just use one existing bolt hole. But, you have to raise it up with a washer to keep it from bottoming out.
I know it sounds ghetto but I used a piece of silicon from an old coupler and cut it in a circle and drilled a hole out that would fit tight against the MAP sensor. The covered it with RTV and it's worked fine for over a year.
Last edited by MLeclair; Apr 11, 2010 at 08:08 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I appreciate you taking your time to write me this giant novel! Thank you very much. I will continue my search for a 2.2l alt and tensioner (#2 option). I just have a question for you.
You said the curved bracket behind the alt can be removed because I will not be using the Supercharger Tensioner. Is it a must? If I leave the bracket, would I have to worry about getting new bolts? This part just confuses me a bit.
Mike
You said the curved bracket behind the alt can be removed because I will not be using the Supercharger Tensioner. Is it a must? If I leave the bracket, would I have to worry about getting new bolts? This part just confuses me a bit.
Mike
http://www.moradpartscompany.com/
Just give them a call... they should be able to hook you up, and they've got good pricing usually too.
You don't HAVE to remove the Bracket... but I recommend it. I dunno if its just that my 2.2L Tensioner is bad, or something like that... but I have the 2.2 Alt and Tensioner w/ the bracket behind the Alt, and I get belt squeal every now and again if I use too much power/make the Alt work harder. Annoying as hell. The shorter bolts can be had from a 2.2/2.4L. Hopefully, whoever you get your Alt from, can also supply you with the bolts, and the wiring pigtail (I had to order mine from a dealership... and it was like $29... so if you can get it elsewhere, I strongly advise it). Give Morad Parts a try.
http://www.moradpartscompany.com/
Just give them a call... they should be able to hook you up, and they've got good pricing usually too.
http://www.moradpartscompany.com/
Just give them a call... they should be able to hook you up, and they've got good pricing usually too.
probably best bet to use the 2.2l alt, belt and tensioner. much easier to find and you don't have to wait on RAW. 3-4 weeks is a conservative estimate. besides they make the bracket out of aluminum and it flexes like crazy so it'll cause belt slip and belt squeak. i had to rebuild my bracket out of steel.
I have everything hooked up to the car. Absolutely everything... After going to my GM Dealer, they sold me a 3 pin supercharger inlet pressure sensor after trying to convince me it was the MAP sensor. I installed the SIPS thinking they knew what they were talking about, and my car did not start. Would this stop the car from starting? I am ordering the right sensor this afternoon, but I am worried there might be something else wrong... Everything just spins like it's about to start, but feels like there is either fuel...air...or spark missing.
um good question ill try to start my car without map on when im off and see. if not check ur alt. sparkplug or if ur getting fuel. mayb the tune? a caple not plugged etc? got pics of the set up and all?
I haven't taken a picture of the completed project yet. Tomorrow I will go and try to take a 3rd look and see if I am missing anything. Let me know when you can about the map sensor.
I don't think it won't start with the MAP unplugged... but I would bet it'd run like ****/go into limp mode.
So it turns over, but it doesn't fire up?
I would check other things like Spark, Fuel, MAF... don't think its the MAP.
So it turns over, but it doesn't fire up?
I would check other things like Spark, Fuel, MAF... don't think its the MAP.
Yeah.. not entirely sure if it will start without a MAP Sensor.
It turns over, sounds like a decent turn over, alittle fast though. Does not fire up.
Yeah definitely need to check for Spark, I know the Fuel works already. MAF is the sensor that plugs into the charge piping correct? If so, that is connected and hooked up.
It turns over, sounds like a decent turn over, alittle fast though. Does not fire up.
Yeah definitely need to check for Spark, I know the Fuel works already. MAF is the sensor that plugs into the charge piping correct? If so, that is connected and hooked up.
yep its not map my car without it fires up just like it does with it
sorry not that man. try maf. sparkpugs. checck connection etc
make sure ur injector harness is plugged never know lol
make sure ur injector harness is plugged never know lol
Last edited by rico; Apr 14, 2010 at 05:49 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost




