Brakes after raining
#1
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Brakes after raining
Ok so the car sat over night. I jump in getting ready to go to work, go to hit the brakes as I'm approaching traffic at a light. I hit them I'm like seriously? so I slam on them and the car barley stops. Almost dropped a load in the car
After driving around a bit the brakes feel normal again. Never had a car do this, just find it odd.
I know I need the rears done as the rotors are grooved. It's winter and springs coming though. I thought I read something about people having issue with the rear rotors grooving even after a change?
After driving around a bit the brakes feel normal again. Never had a car do this, just find it odd.
I know I need the rears done as the rotors are grooved. It's winter and springs coming though. I thought I read something about people having issue with the rear rotors grooving even after a change?
#3
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yeah after that episode they worked fine. Made me cringe didn't think I was going to stop in time and hit the car ahead. That would've been a fun story telling the cop...
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I've had this every time it rains or I get a carwash... it's almost like the fronts need to get rid of the water?
Mind you the fronts do majority of the braking so the backs being grooved isn't much of an issue for this....
I've just chopped it up to "performance pads" although cars with brembos all-around haven't had this(to my knowledge)
I just keep it in mind when it's wet out and brake earlier or hit the brakes let go hit again and most of the time they grab like they should... when I need new pads I'm going to try aftermarket over OEM replacements see if that makes a difference
Mind you the fronts do majority of the braking so the backs being grooved isn't much of an issue for this....
I've just chopped it up to "performance pads" although cars with brembos all-around haven't had this(to my knowledge)
I just keep it in mind when it's wet out and brake earlier or hit the brakes let go hit again and most of the time they grab like they should... when I need new pads I'm going to try aftermarket over OEM replacements see if that makes a difference
#9
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It's normal for our brake rotors not to work properly when they are wet. When I 1st got my balt 2 yrs ago, the previous owner warned me of the problem. I was reminded a year later when I hit a curb and ripped off my ss front lip and bent a control arm of this problem. Noe I just give it a little drag of the brake when I 1st start driving after a car wash or rain to dry them BEFORE I need to stop.
#14
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R1 garbage huh? Still on the stock Ferodo HP 1000 pads? I gotta thank ya Chris !! Those el cheapo pads I got in for you many moons ago, that you didnt want, when you decided to go stock from Nate? They work awesome in winter weather, best pads for winter use ever. Waaay better than the stock stuff which is a performance compound . I think its kinda like summer tires in winter, doncha know? Summer pads in winter appear to be unsuited for -57398 degrees. and rain. with ice....
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R1 garbage huh? Still on the stock Ferodo HP 1000 pads? I gotta thank ya Chris !! Those el cheapo pads I got in for you many moons ago, that you didnt want, when you decided to go stock from Nate? They work awesome in winter weather, best pads for winter use ever. Waaay better than the stock stuff which is a performance compound . I think its kinda like summer tires in winter, doncha know? Summer pads in winter appear to be unsuited for -57398 degrees. and rain. with ice....
#17
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John, I'm running a similar setup with R1 premium slotted in front and premium blanks in the rear with the SS/SC OEM pads, and I find they do fine. They do perform better when warmed up slightly, but being a Super Duty owner, I'm used to having to warm up brakes to get them to do jack **** anyway.
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After sitting in rain they suck for the first few applications... also if it's raining hard enough they will be fine until I get on the highway and go all wonky again by the time I need to use them on the highway again..
Just one thing to keep in mind in wetter weather to avoid poo coming out situations
Just one thing to keep in mind in wetter weather to avoid poo coming out situations
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#23
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lmao you don't need slotted rotors on your car to help you stop better in the rain. What kind of pads and rotors are you using when you replace the brakes, cheap autoparts brands for 20 bucks or are you letting jiffy lube do them and use their stuff? Also when is the last time you have had the brake fluid drained and replaced.
When I first bought my 06 SS, it had....no brakes, like i pulled away from the dealer lot with the car, the pedal went right to the floor, it was the scariest ride home I had ever had in my entire life. When I pulled the wheels the next morning the pads were basically gone around all 4 wheels and the rotors were at their minimum thickness. Not to mention the fact that the brake fluid was green and black, which is not only indicative of it having exceeded its maximum lifespan since it is hydroscopic, but the black is from the rubber breaking down in the lines. I think the thing that made the biggest difference overall was the fact that 2 out of the 4 calipers had air in them from the factory, noticeable amounts of air. Which made the pedal extremely spongey most of the time, not only that but 2 out of 4 of the brake caliper's had sized slide pins, one in the front and one in the back which is extremely important in getting the caliper to apply even pressure on the pad.
I think with a good overhaul of your brake system and a brake fluid flush and make sure they are properly bled you will correct all your problems. Just make sure you use a quality ceramic pad on a good blank rotor, something like centric posi quiet or even wagner quick stops or raybestos ceramics will suffice for a DD.
When I first bought my 06 SS, it had....no brakes, like i pulled away from the dealer lot with the car, the pedal went right to the floor, it was the scariest ride home I had ever had in my entire life. When I pulled the wheels the next morning the pads were basically gone around all 4 wheels and the rotors were at their minimum thickness. Not to mention the fact that the brake fluid was green and black, which is not only indicative of it having exceeded its maximum lifespan since it is hydroscopic, but the black is from the rubber breaking down in the lines. I think the thing that made the biggest difference overall was the fact that 2 out of the 4 calipers had air in them from the factory, noticeable amounts of air. Which made the pedal extremely spongey most of the time, not only that but 2 out of 4 of the brake caliper's had sized slide pins, one in the front and one in the back which is extremely important in getting the caliper to apply even pressure on the pad.
I think with a good overhaul of your brake system and a brake fluid flush and make sure they are properly bled you will correct all your problems. Just make sure you use a quality ceramic pad on a good blank rotor, something like centric posi quiet or even wagner quick stops or raybestos ceramics will suffice for a DD.
#24
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Also some newer vehicles have brake systems that clear the rotors of water automatically. This little safety feature is decent considering the couple close calls people had in this thread. I too get caught off guard sometimes right after a drive thru car wash.
#25
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Folks Brembo brakes and ferodo pads are a completely different animal compared to single piston ss/sc sliding calipers.
so pay attention to what I posted and it will become apparent what the cause and effects are.
its always a good idea to change brake fluid annually.
I serially doubt brakes are shipped from the factory installed a new car with air in the system. i have never heard of it for sure.
so pay attention to what I posted and it will become apparent what the cause and effects are.
its always a good idea to change brake fluid annually.
I serially doubt brakes are shipped from the factory installed a new car with air in the system. i have never heard of it for sure.