A/C and HVAC Problems!
Hello everyone!
I have a 2006 SS/SC and am having issues with both the A/C and the HVAC.
1) Every time I turn on my car there is a loud clicking from around the glove-box area for about 10 seconds. Other than that the heat blows very hot! What is the problem here and how do I fix it?
2) My car isn't blowing cold A/C. Its not hot, just warm. I've had the car for about a year and a half so when I bought the car it was freezing so it didn't even cross my mind to check. Around this time last year I noticed the A/C wasn't working but ignored it due to me being super lazy. I tried to recharge the A/C system today but it didn't seem to work. I followed the instructions exactly. When I plugged in the can the gauge read 0. I shook it up and squeezed the trigger for maybe 15 seconds and it was already full! Its not any colder. What is the problem here and how do I fix it?
Thank you!
I have a 2006 SS/SC and am having issues with both the A/C and the HVAC.
1) Every time I turn on my car there is a loud clicking from around the glove-box area for about 10 seconds. Other than that the heat blows very hot! What is the problem here and how do I fix it?
2) My car isn't blowing cold A/C. Its not hot, just warm. I've had the car for about a year and a half so when I bought the car it was freezing so it didn't even cross my mind to check. Around this time last year I noticed the A/C wasn't working but ignored it due to me being super lazy. I tried to recharge the A/C system today but it didn't seem to work. I followed the instructions exactly. When I plugged in the can the gauge read 0. I shook it up and squeezed the trigger for maybe 15 seconds and it was already full! Its not any colder. What is the problem here and how do I fix it?
Thank you!
As for the A/C not working, scroll the driver info center over to check your engine coolant temperature. Is your engine temp ---*? If so, that's why your A/C won't blow cold.
What exactly do you mean by that? I keep my DIC on Coolant Temp about 90% of the time while I am driving. Now that its hot out it is usually at 175-185 while I'm driving around.
2) My car isn't blowing cold A/C. Its not hot, just warm. I've had the car for about a year and a half so when I bought the car it was freezing so it didn't even cross my mind to check. Around this time last year I noticed the A/C wasn't working but ignored it due to me being super lazy. I tried to recharge the A/C system today but it didn't seem to work. I followed the instructions exactly. When I plugged in the can the gauge read 0. I shook it up and squeezed the trigger for maybe 15 seconds and it was already full! Its not any colder. What is the problem here and how do I fix it?
Sometimes when the coolant temp sensor is failing, it will read ---*. That disables the A/C and keeps the fans on constantly because the computer doesn't know what the temp is apparently. Mine will do it sporadically, glad to see yours isn't doing that. Look for pinches in the A/C hoses as well. A friend of mine had that happen too.
loud click for about 10 seconds when you turn the car on is going to be a mode door actuator.........if it's coming from behind the glovebox it is probably your air inlet (recirculation) door.......Try moving the temp, mode, and pressing the recirc button and see if you can duplicate the noise that way.
As for the air not blowing as cold......need to check a few things like the Freon level, and system pressures.
As for the air not blowing as cold......need to check a few things like the Freon level, and system pressures.
I would have to agree; its a door issue.
The clicking is the plastic gears inside the actuator that are stripped out.
To figure out which one it is, take out your glovebox and put your hand on each actuator and play around with the HVAC controls till you find the bad one. I dont believe there is a "reset" procedure for the actuator(there are some that do, bit of a bitch actually). Should just be 2-4 screws pull out actuator, install new one, test.
Before you condemn the AC side of the system, you need to fix the HVAC issue.
If you still have cooling issues after the repair, you need to take it to a shop that knows what they are doing; those cheap little kits you buy at the parts store are shitty. They work with R-12 systems, due to the fact that r-12 is very forgiving. R-134a is a lot less forgiving, you need to have accurate gauges for optimum performance.
You also need a proper machine to recover and pull a vacuum on the system, inject the proper amount of oil(and dye) and keep the refrigerant from getting into the atmosphere...$10K+ fine isn't worth it in my opinion
The clicking is the plastic gears inside the actuator that are stripped out.
To figure out which one it is, take out your glovebox and put your hand on each actuator and play around with the HVAC controls till you find the bad one. I dont believe there is a "reset" procedure for the actuator(there are some that do, bit of a bitch actually). Should just be 2-4 screws pull out actuator, install new one, test.
Before you condemn the AC side of the system, you need to fix the HVAC issue.
If you still have cooling issues after the repair, you need to take it to a shop that knows what they are doing; those cheap little kits you buy at the parts store are shitty. They work with R-12 systems, due to the fact that r-12 is very forgiving. R-134a is a lot less forgiving, you need to have accurate gauges for optimum performance.
You also need a proper machine to recover and pull a vacuum on the system, inject the proper amount of oil(and dye) and keep the refrigerant from getting into the atmosphere...$10K+ fine isn't worth it in my opinion
depending on which actuator it is......you say it's coming from behind the glovebox, so I would assume it's the air inlet actuator (recirculation door). Straight time is right around 6 hours.....the dash has to come out (well it's supposed to) to replace that actuator........
The other two actuators are much easier to get to.....but they are closer to the drivers side, so they probably aren't the cause of your noise.
The other two actuators are much easier to get to.....but they are closer to the drivers side, so they probably aren't the cause of your noise.
Im about to go to work; Ill check mitchell for some piktars and see what that ******* says about how to fix cars.
I said pull out the glove box to find the bad one.
And there is only 2-4 screws holding it on to the HVAC box.
I may have left out a few steps...
I said pull out the glove box to find the bad one.
And there is only 2-4 screws holding it on to the HVAC box.
I may have left out a few steps...
Ok; the only actuator on the passenger side
Is the recirc actuator. It's behind the right side
Of dash above blower motor.
I haven't looked at my car yet to see if it's doable without pulling dash, but Mitchell is telling me that you need to pull dash(what does he know anyways).
It calls for 5.5 hours labor.
I would say, pull the glovebox, and the other snap in BS panels off on the right side and see what you can do.
Is the recirc actuator. It's behind the right side
Of dash above blower motor.
I haven't looked at my car yet to see if it's doable without pulling dash, but Mitchell is telling me that you need to pull dash(what does he know anyways).
It calls for 5.5 hours labor.
I would say, pull the glovebox, and the other snap in BS panels off on the right side and see what you can do.
For any one else having this problem it's the mode door/ blend door actuators it in the driver side footwell just past the trim panel in line with the center console. Blend it in control the heat / Ac.(blend is Lower of the 2 plastic cap looking things with wires sticking out) mode door is for what vent gets the air. My mode door was stuck after using the defroster. Would not go back to full front vents. I just tapped on it with the back of my closed pocket knife. It was able to actuate one more time before I replace it. It's easy to get to so that's good. Hope it helps👍🤙
I keep my DIC on Coolant Temp about 90% of the time while I am driving. Now that its hot out it is usually at 175-185 while I'm driving around.
__________________
__________________
Last edited by BryantMales; Oct 27, 2023 at 01:28 PM.
Dealership quoted me over $700 in labor for a $45 part to tear apart the entire dash to replace the circulation door actuator. It's a harmless but annoying problem. I fixed it using zip tie knots to prevent the door from completely closing and no more noise. There's a youtube video with DIY
Dealership quoted me over $700 in labor for a $45 part to tear apart the entire dash to replace the circulation door actuator. It's a harmless but annoying problem. I fixed it using zip tie knots to prevent the door from completely closing and no more noise. There's a youtube video with DIY
Dealership quoted me over $700 in labor for a $45 part to tear apart the entire dash to replace the circulation door actuator. It's a harmless but annoying problem. I fixed it using zip tie knots to prevent the door from completely closing and no more noise. There's a youtube video with DIY
I found the video I used, I also definitely could get the new one in too. Okay here is the video.
https://youtu.be/0fGzb035Pw4?si=Nu2XkDiU_Mr2lN-c
https://youtu.be/0fGzb035Pw4?si=Nu2XkDiU_Mr2lN-c
It's super easy, took be 15min to get it out. The actuator has no screws it just clips/ snaps in. Once the insulation is cut out you can literally reach up in there. I planned on putting the new one, but as soon as the clicking was gone I lost interest and never ordered the part.😹


