for me, when it comes to knock....i know if you hear one then you no longer have an engine....so do you guys think my car is ok?

is this the same guy who didnt know who couldnt find the LSD when replacing the clutch?

no that was me. i thought the differential would be outside the transmission. and another thing, i guess with lsd cars, if you spin the tires, they go in opposite directions but not with the cobalt so that was a little confusing. but he is more of a Pontiac guy.

they are the same company and use the same parts........

every car company has those little differences between them. and if its the first time you put a wrench to a new car....

im not saying that, all i am saying that Pontiac and Chevrolet both fall under the General Motors banner, in our case the Cobalt is nearly identical to the Pontiac G5/Pursuit minus a few body panels

im just saying that being a "Pontiac guy" is not really an excuse for an "experienced mechanic" when it comes to relatively simple issues like this. i do not know your brother or anything but i did go back and look at the other thread about not being able to find the LSD and you said quote "me and my brother are replacing the clutch but we cant find where it is."

i am not trying to offend anyone i am just saying that if your brother is an "experienced mechanic" and cannot locate a differential, i would get somebody elses help

i guess i could understand that. that was immediately after detaching the tranny from the engine. he had it figured out in all of two minutes...but i wanted to double check.

but seriously though...do you guys think its safe for me to drive my car? i filled up my blowers coolant and have been taking it easy but i just want to know...is it just a matter of time before i replace an engine?

Keep driving it. On these cars you won't hear knock unless it's the piston knocking a valve. But you need to determine if there is a wiring issue for the IAT2 code or a bad sensor.

I suggest getting a intercepter gauge so you can watch IAT2 and KR.

those interceptor gauges are so damn expensive....i would love to have one though....but thanks for the answer though.

a new engine costs more

Isaac there are certain things you kinda need on these types of cars that should have been thought of before purchasing them. You don't have to have the gauge but it does help a lot. As would hp tuners so you can log (or know someone who can) to help determine if there are issues. Anytime you throw a supercharger or turbo on a car, it adds to the things you need to maintain or pay attn to. These cars aren't a great option for someone with no mechanical experience unless you got one new and had a warranty so the dealer could fix it for you.
You will learn a lot by reading the forums and wrenching on the car. But it may be slow going. Don't get offended at people who are trying to help due to you having no knowledge about what you are doing. You signed up for this when you purchased the car with it being several years old and needing service and maintenance. Spend time with the car and learn about how everything works.

Is your intercooler pump working? Is the coolant flowing when you take off the cap? Also, what pulley are you running? You should really think about getting some cooling mods to go along with your "stage 3". If your intercooler pump isn't working your IAT will be high

ok. what is just a quick way to check if my intercooler pump works and ill go do that. and i am using a 2.7 pulley.

thats actually some pretty damn good advice. i just wasnt aware of how much stuff really went into owning one of these cars. not that im not up for it. and i know i need better cooling mods... i just dont want to buy certain stuff until i know for a fact if im going turbo route or not.

Extensively research what all is involved with the turbo swap, it can be a fair amount of work. I would suggest you get everything else done first on the suspension, good tires etc, before even thing about a turbo. Much different going from low torque supercharger to high torque turbo.

yeah. i know the basic list of parts needed....it'll take a few grand but im def down for it. and these cars have been my dream cars since i was 12 years old (excluding the dodge viper that is). i just want a turbo because they make so much damn power and they aren't parasitic little bastards. more power and better gas mileage? count me in baby....not to mention blow off valves sounds pretty damn badass...thats just me though. but really, i just want my car to be in the 400hp range. i dont know why....ive daydreams about this for a long time now and its finally in my grasp...but not with a supercharger its not.

better be careful with the tune at those power levels then, you will start melting transmissions, and those alone are a couple grand for a good one

a couple grand for an F35? by good one do you mean heat treated and all that?

a Powell rebuilt f35 is around 2k i believe, more if you want 4.45 gears, really one of the only options out there for a rebuild. he is the only person i would trust with mine

Turn the ignition on I believe and the pump will start flowing. Open the cap and look to see if the coolant is flowing. YouTube a video of it if you can't understand. You really shouldn't be running a 2.7 without any cooling mods

This. I'd be willing to bet your IAT2s are over 200 if you pull through 3rd, which is not good for things past the supercharger (pistons, valves, exhaust mani, cat, etc.)

very well could have cooked the sensor, im not sure if you can check it with a multi meter or if your stuck trying a new sensor.

if you look and are still unsure of if you have coolant flow you can also use a big flathead screwdriver in the filler tube, it should push the screwdriver to the side if coolant is flowing, just make sure you do this when the engine is cold

Yep.. i couldnt remember if the engine had to be running or the ignition just on. If i had to guess its shot because usually when the system is dry it means the pump is broken.