GTech-Pro Model SS
GTech-Pro Model SS
So I did some searching around and I found this.(thanks to 04mustang) It looks pretty decent and I have heard good things about it. I think I might order. So what do you guys think.
Here is the link http://www.gtechpro.com/ss.html#
here is the link on how accurate it is. http://www.gtechpro.com/accuracy.html
Here is the link http://www.gtechpro.com/ss.html#
here is the link on how accurate it is. http://www.gtechpro.com/accuracy.html
Last edited by invisible; Mar 26, 2008 at 04:13 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I have my buddies Pro SS, it seems pretty accurate, the only problem I've noticed with it is it doesn't read RPM's right. It jumps around alot at idle, seems to do ok if the engine is under load though.
So I did some searching around and I found this.(thanks to 04mustang) It looks pretty decent and I have heard good things about it. I think I might order. So what do you guys think.
Here is the link http://www.gtechpro.com/ss.html#
here is the link on how accurate it is. http://www.gtechpro.com/accuracy.html
Here is the link http://www.gtechpro.com/ss.html#
here is the link on how accurate it is. http://www.gtechpro.com/accuracy.html
Basically, most of these gauges were within 1/10-2/10 second of the drag strip timers.
But for any of them to be accurate, the car HAD to be on a completely level surface (the various meters use 1 or more gyroscopes).
Any deviation from that and they start becoming highly inaccurate.
As an owner of a previous version I can confirm what firemanfrank has said about the accuracy and requiring a level surface for the vehicle.
The RPMs may have improved since the version I had but I mainly used it for a shift light in my old Mustang. It was useless for that in the Cobalt SS. It get's it's power through a lighter plug adapter and that's where the fault lies with regards to reading the RPMs correctly. Our car's electrical system is not user friendly for electrical tach use hence the jumping described earlier.
You will also have to program in variables such as your vehicle weight and altitude as I recall. I might be wrong on the altitude part as I don't have the unit anymore.
I think you will be disappointed with it's performance in a Cobalt but it was great in the Mustang.
Sorry I didn't see this thread before you ordered. Just keep everything so you can send it back if you don't like it.
The RPMs may have improved since the version I had but I mainly used it for a shift light in my old Mustang. It was useless for that in the Cobalt SS. It get's it's power through a lighter plug adapter and that's where the fault lies with regards to reading the RPMs correctly. Our car's electrical system is not user friendly for electrical tach use hence the jumping described earlier.
You will also have to program in variables such as your vehicle weight and altitude as I recall. I might be wrong on the altitude part as I don't have the unit anymore.
I think you will be disappointed with it's performance in a Cobalt but it was great in the Mustang.
Sorry I didn't see this thread before you ordered. Just keep everything so you can send it back if you don't like it.
I had a GTech pro.. Bad buy
.. I read the instructions to the T and could never get the thing to work properly 
NOTE: that was for a Cobalt too, other cars it may work well or perfect..
NOTE: that was for a Cobalt too, other cars it may work well or perfect..
Last edited by TheDriver!; Mar 27, 2008 at 09:05 AM. Reason: added a line
Damn that sucks
How long ago did you guys have this cause i think they have upgraded since then.
How long ago did you guys have this cause i think they have upgraded since then.
Last edited by invisible; Mar 27, 2008 at 01:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
One thing that makes me highly suspicious is that even though the "G-Tech Forums" link is still under "Support" ...
Nothing shows up there when you click it.
That can't be a good sign (years ago there was a ton of feedback in their forums to help people out ... hmmm)
Nothing shows up there when you click it.
That can't be a good sign (years ago there was a ton of feedback in their forums to help people out ... hmmm)
I have the RS model now i used to have the SS. On a car with alot of rumble to it the RPMs are easily calibrated. On my cobalt with no rumble to it I found the Gtec is pretty much worthless that or my car is capable of producing 122 hp w/ 835 torque in a 30 foot distance. It however Reads really accurate (within 10hp of a dyno) on every other car ive tried. A biggie Is all in how well you calibrate it.
It takes in for account that your average person weighs 200 lbs(true or not thats the number they use)
so if you weigh less you have to subtract that number from the GVW and if you weigh more add it to the gvw. Here is where i hit a wall in callibration is when i was revving the car to match the RPMs i had a problem holding an RPM for long enough for me to click OK. Which just coulda been me freaking about revving to 5k rpm for several seconds in park. But after that i found it neer impossable to fine 1 of the 64 options which gave me an accurate RPM Reading.
It takes in for account that your average person weighs 200 lbs(true or not thats the number they use)
so if you weigh less you have to subtract that number from the GVW and if you weigh more add it to the gvw. Here is where i hit a wall in callibration is when i was revving the car to match the RPMs i had a problem holding an RPM for long enough for me to click OK. Which just coulda been me freaking about revving to 5k rpm for several seconds in park. But after that i found it neer impossable to fine 1 of the 64 options which gave me an accurate RPM Reading.
it's not plug and play. it takes a bunch of factors into acount, which you have to input. if you don't get it set up right, it's useless. like said, you have to do things like vehicle weight, altitude, be on level ground, etc. it works well in perfect conditions, but perfect conditions are hard to come by.
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