How to get an oil pressure gauge to work (almost)

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Nov 17, 2008 | 05:42 PM

#26

XgunsmokeX

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From: Brooklyn,CT

so the 3 on the back will work fine?

Nov 17, 2008 | 06:16 PM

#27

Red07SSNA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by XgunsmokeX

so the 3 on the back will work fine?

If you can get a set-up on one of the three oil galley holes under the exhaust...yes they will read block pressure.

Nov 17, 2008 | 08:30 PM

#28

XgunsmokeX

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From: Brooklyn,CT

hmm ill have to get my car up on a lift and see what room i got to work with, hoping a 90degree sweep will fit, or ill just get a full sweep

Jun 3, 2009 | 12:29 AM

#29

NWAE Cobalt

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From: Puyallup, WA

Mine is on the right side of the head, right next to the fuse box, i used the autometer adapter from summit and got it all setup

'
ill try and take pics later

Jun 3, 2009 | 10:22 AM

#30

Red07SSNA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by NWAE Cobalt

Mine is on the right side of the head, right next to the fuse box, i used the autometer adapter from summit and got it all setup

'
ill try and take pics later

Using the oil galley plug in the cylinder head works...as long as you're satisfied with reading the oil pressure there. I wanted full block oil pressure readings so I had to install the sending unit in the block - the oil pressure to the cylinder head is reduced by a restrictor orifice.

Jun 3, 2009 | 10:36 AM

#31

NWAE Cobalt

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From: Puyallup, WA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red07SSNA

ya, thats what ive been reading and im going to relocate as long as i have ample room int he back

Jun 28, 2009 | 05:45 PM

#32

XgunsmokeX

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From: Brooklyn,CT

room in back????

Jun 28, 2009 | 06:14 PM

#33

Red07SSNA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by XgunsmokeX

room in back????

"Room in Back"

Some Definitions:

For car knowledgable: the area between the engine and firewall

For non-car knowledgable folks: The room in the back of the house, or, the space available in a room/garage where one can stow extra gear.

Jun 30, 2009 | 01:54 AM

#34

TiggeR

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From: New Port Richey, FL

omg im so confused right now....whats all this copper tubing stuff for? And how and why are you putting your factory oil pressure sender on the back of the engine

i have an 06 ss/na auto 2.4l....... do i just mount the aftermarket sender unit in the front of the engine where the manifold is like you did, and just switch over the factory sender unit to the side of the engine like you did and thats it im done? or is there more to that? i dont know much so i need alot of detail please and thank you

Last edited by TiggeR; Jun 30, 2009 at 01:54 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

Jun 30, 2009 | 10:22 AM

#35

Red07SSNA

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If you are using a wide sweep oil pressure gauge they come with thinner oil sending units and MAY fit in the original factory sending unit position...the short sweep gauge has a large sending unit that will not clear the intake manifold -- that is why I remote-positioned my sending unit and used copper tubing from where the factory sending unit WAS located. I positioned the original factory sending unit in the cylinder head because I wanted it to still work. The cylinder head oil pressure is roughly half of the block pressure so the sending unit still works there as it is only an on-off switch. I wanted to have my oil pressure gauge reading block oil pressure.

Jun 30, 2009 | 01:36 PM

#36

TiggeR

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From: New Port Richey, FL

so the copper tubing was kind of an extension so the aftermarket sending unit could fit where the intake was?

Jun 30, 2009 | 03:27 PM

#37

Red07SSNA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by TiggeR

so the copper tubing was kind of an extension so the aftermarket sending unit could fit where the intake was?

Yes. I installed the short-sweep sending unit where the original factory sending unit was and then when I installed the intake I found it was butted up against the new sending unit. I didn't want to drive it like that so I repositioned the sending unit and ran a copper tube from the Autometer adapter to the sending unit now located on a home-made bracket bolted to the cylinder head.

I wanted the factory sending unit to still function so I installed it in the cylinder head.

If you can "live" with the reduced oil pressure readings of the cylinder head you can put the aftermarket sending unit in a cylinder head oil galley port. It's easier that way -- but you won't read the block pressure.

Pictured here is the Autometer oil pressure sending unit in the block -- where the factory sending unit was. When I installed the intake it butted up against the sending unit:

https://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/fil...nding_unit.jpg

Jun 30, 2009 | 03:39 PM

#38

NWAE Cobalt

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From: Puyallup, WA

ya, mine is mostly to see when its warmed up and best for getting on it, and for if there is a sudden spike or drop, and i can read that on the head, no need to get all worried about the block lol, i just mult by 2 and call it a day

Jun 30, 2009 | 06:14 PM

#39

TiggeR

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From: New Port Richey, FL

so can i just install the aftermarket sender unit on the block up top on the engine on the drivers side and not even have to mess with the factory unit? ill just different readings right?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red07SSNA

In order to get an oil sending unit to fit you have to remote-position it (on the 2.2 and 2.4 -- I don't know if there is a clearance problem with the 2.0). I used an Autometer adapter #2278 and inserted it into the block where the Factory Oil Sending Unit goes and then bought a copper tube kit and used the adapters that came with the kit and positioned the Autometer electric sending unit next to the cylinder head on the driver side where there is an unused bolt hole. I kept the Factory Oil Sending Unit in the cylinder head (^^^post above) so that it still tells the ECM I have oil pressure. Put 30 miles on the car and everything is working. Oil Pressure at speed is 75 PSI, Idle it is 25 PSI, and as soon as I touch the throttle it jumps to 50 PSI by 1000 RPM -- right where the factory service manual says it should be. I also bought an A-Pillar with the boost gauge from CED and positioned an AutoMeter Electric Gauge #1927 in it.

https://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/fil...il_gauge_2.jpg

could you please explain the whole copper tube kit thing? you talk about putting the aftermarket sender in the factory spot then you say you put the sender back by the cylinder head with an unused bolt? im really confused

okay lol nevermind i think i got what you did....so how long was this copper tubbing and where did you get it? did it come threaded? and was the copper tubing 1/8"?

Last edited by TiggeR; Jun 30, 2009 at 06:14 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

Jun 30, 2009 | 06:23 PM

#40

Red07SSNA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by TiggeR

so can i just install the aftermarket sender unit on the block up top on the engine on the drivers side and not even have to mess with the factory unit? ill just different readings right?

You can install an oil pressure sending unit in the head -- on the driver side. There are three oil galley plugs -- use the center one. Your readings should be ~10-17PSI at idle and ~ 30-40 PSI WOT.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TiggeR

I'm **** when it comes to working on my cars...I did not want to use the plastic tube that comes with the gauge kit -- so I bought a copper tube kit. I have had plastic tubes leak...Also why I use electric oil pressure gauges -- I do not like engine oil leaks inside my passenger compartment. Leaves stains in the carpet

Jun 30, 2009 | 06:55 PM

#41

TiggeR

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From: New Port Richey, FL

so i put one side of the copper tube in the hole where the factory sender was and then put the aftermarket sender into the other side of the copper tube then mount the aftermarket sender to a secure place right?

Jun 30, 2009 | 08:29 PM

#42

NWAE Cobalt

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From: Puyallup, WA

i have never see that many posts from the server

Jun 30, 2009 | 08:30 PM

#43

Red07SSNA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by TiggeR

You only need the copper tube if you are going to remote-mount your sending unit like I did to get block pressure.

If you want the cylinder head pressure - to make it easier - just get an Autometer adapter that screws into an oil galley plug hole and then mount the sending unit into the adapter.

Last edited by Red07SSNA; Jun 30, 2009 at 10:59 PM.

Jun 30, 2009 | 08:58 PM

#44

TiggeR

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From: New Port Richey, FL

the block pressure is what i want right? i dont want that cylinder head pressure....well i was thinking and could i just squeeze some brass "T" in the factory sender unit hole and then connect both the factory and aftermarket sender units on the "T"?? that would work right?

Jun 30, 2009 | 11:04 PM

#45

Red07SSNA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by TiggeR

I thought about using a "T" also...I bought all kinds and shapes of brass adapters, "t"s, elbows, and extensions to try and make something work -- just isn't enough room.

Makes sense to read block pressure...but some are happy with the head pressure...FYI the oil flow/pressure into the head is reduced by a restricting orifice -- a small hole.