About $19500 for my 06 2.4 SS coupe with sunroof and mp3 player... Only decent looking SS on the lot, either that, or there was an amethyst SS Sedan... It had leather heated seats, and the Bose system w/sub... and a sunroof, but it was a sedan... so I had to go with the coupe...

I dont regret it, though

 

I got a new 06 ss sc with g85 and xm for 19500 out the door.

 

2006 SS/SC 21,500 - XM, Onstar, Premium Sound, ect...

 

This may be a little off topic, but I have an 04 trailblazer that I plan on trading in for a Cobalt SS/SC in like early aug. soon as I get back to Jersey. Any tips or suggestions for me as to how I can get the BEST deal possible??? Still new to the new car buyin ordeal. I have 0% interest on my Tblazer and as of Aug. will owe like 24g's...I know that's not gonna help me, but I WANT a SS Cobalt for sure

 

Don't mention any trade in until you've negotiated a final price ....then you'll truly see what they're going to offer

Usually better off to sell yourself...

 

Wow ...

Sounds unbelievable

 

Details? How much in talking, and how much in rebates, and WHICH rebates? Employee, conquest, etc?

 

05 red ss 25,500 after taxes (couldnt be more loaded, xm, full 10year warranty and all that ****- everything you could imagine)

 

Thank you, I had heard that it was better to try an talk them down the lowest possible price, then talk about the trade. After that was said and done, then bring in the possibility of a down-payment. Just too damn excited about going shopping for one. Sucks that I hafta wait till the beggining of Aug...lol... By the way, this site rocks. Very informative, I almost think that if there were to be a recall or some info from GM that ya'll would hear and talk about it on here first. lol...Looking forward to becoming part of the LSJ family, eventually. Sorry Long Thread

 

i paid.....24500....

 

I paid 10,800 for mine with about 8,000 miles on it.

 

21,500 out the door. No extras.

 

Just bought a 2006 red SS Coupe, XM radio, Heated leather seats, pioneer system and auto trans. sticker was 20,955, got it for $17,900 after taxes and everything.

 

I just bought mine this past Thursday. Black 2006 SS/SC with sunroof, XM. $20,500.

This seems like a pretty good website with some good information. I think I'll probably stick around here.

 

11,316 out the door for my 06 LS Coupe, Now I can afford to upgrade

 

15600 before taxes loaded cobalt ls black 4100 miles

 

$25,750 USD w/66 miles

 

17,200 for 06 SS/NA with 300 miles.

 

NO, actually its NOT. I have a dealers license and got the car at auction. Just because Im a new member doesn't mean I'm full of ****, or don't know what Im talking about. I don't really care though, so go ahead and keep on calling the BS flag before you get the details or know the person. Thats a real sweet way to welcome new members to the community who might be able to contribute something huh?

Not that anyone cares but, I've owned a N/A RX-7, a Turbo II RX-7, a first gen RX-7 which I did a blowthrough carb'd. turbo setup on, a 00 Eclipse GT (wrecked it), and lastly had an 00 z24. I also install autoglass and repair interior water leaks with my grandfather who has been doing it for almost 40 years and is self-employed.

Whatever though, no hard feelings.

Chris~

 

Here is my webshots site with pictures of my old Turbo II, Bill Wiemanns mopars from the June or Junly 05 issue of HOT ROD (I did the glass work with my grand-dad) come car shows, and some other random crap.....

http://community.webshots.com/user/cds00bsmg

Chris~

 

That's just a myth. I sell cars for a living, and if anything you will **** the dealer off, and then they won't like you enough to be in your favor. Put your trade up front, and don't settle for a price until they are ready to let you walk out the door, then walk out the door to your car and try to drive off. If they haven't called you back in 2 hours to make the deal sweeter, then go back and accept the offer if you can afford to. Remember you save taxes on the value of your trade in!

Remember wait for them to let you go, just don't leave and then take the next offer, because they will sometimes let you walk out and then tell you better numbers, make them let you leave. They hate that, and will only do that when they cannot sell the car for less.

 

To answer your questions, and the guy above you. My car was MSRP at $23,8XX, and There was a $500 down payment assistance rebate on the cobalts. I sell cars for a living, so I figure I know enough about negotiating the business. There is only about $800 in profit on a Cobalt, even SS/SC, whether you believe it or not. I know because I pulled up the invoice sheets from dealerworld and looked at the invoice, the holdback, and the true cost. There is about $1,000 in hold back that the manufacturer will eventually pay the dealership for selling the car.

I picked out a unit that was delivered to GM itself and not a dealership, and they used it a show car and trailered it around to events. It only had 81 miles on it. This car had extra bonus money paid to the dealer that they selected to inventory it after it was done. This lowered the dealerships cost on the car to about $20,600. I told them that they would have to pay off both of my trades to sell me the car and accept breaking even on the car. When they took the holdback out of it too and paid off my trades, they sold me their car for 19500, effectively losing $1,100 right away, to regain it later, and paying off my two cars. I did not have to pay taxes on it since my cars were worth more than the cobalt, so I got it for 19500 straight out the door no taxes, and my tags were worth more than the cobalts so I didn't have to pay more for those either.

That's how it happened. If you know what you are doing then you can buy a car the smarter way. If I didn't do it for a living I wouldn't have been as well armed going into another dealership, but it's like bringing guns to a gun fight, your as equipped as they are. Most customers wouldn't know how to negotiate the price of the sweat on a hot dog. You'd be surprised how dumb some car buyers are, but you got to love the people you can make a $3,000 comission off of.

 

^Thank you, someone who finally knows whats going on, lol. I am also a salesman and I happen to work at a Chevy Dealership. We get people expecting to get $3,000-4,000 off of a base cobalt sometimes, a lot of buyers are clueless about actual cost.

 

A lot of buyers are clueless about everything and go into the dealership and pay the MSRP or worse. Or they negotiate the monthly payment and end up paying 5-10k more for the car than if they had negotiated the right way.

Then you have circumstances where a dealer will actually take a loss on a car just to clear out their inventory. Like a lot of things in life, it's all about timing. Showing up at the right time can mean getting a killer deal from a dealership that's not had a good quarter.

Often, if dealers and salesman were actually honest about their dealings up front they could easily educate the buyer, but the fact is that the dealerships and the salesman want the buyer as clueless as possible, it's how they make their money.

So I'm not sure exactly WHY you want your buyers informed because then you won't be able to screw them up, down, left, and right on the price of a car. :P It's why I don't recommend leases, there are so many ways to get screwed on a lease it almost always ends up being a bad deal for the average car buyer.

The fact of the matter is that you're just upset because it's not quite as easy to fool people anymore as it used to be and that pisses you off. :P

 

I agree. It scares me how often I hear about people walking into a dealership and trying to negotiate a car purchase by just saying how much money they can pay per month. Unless you're a statistical genius or you are carrying around a calculator, you can get screwed so many ways doing that.