Need new brake rotors, opinions on these?
Need new brake rotors, opinions on these?
Everytime I brake lately my steering wheel shakes like crazy and so does the rest of the car. Pretty sure my rotors need a replacement.
What do you think about these ones;
Front Kit Performance Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors Ceramic Pads M040557 | eBay
They look great and the description makes them sound awesome. Wondering if anyone has tried them before? I have a Cobalt base btw with drums in the rear.
If there any others you suggest, fire away. If they're drilled better, they look cooler.
Thanks in advance!
What do you think about these ones;
Front Kit Performance Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors Ceramic Pads M040557 | eBay
They look great and the description makes them sound awesome. Wondering if anyone has tried them before? I have a Cobalt base btw with drums in the rear.
If there any others you suggest, fire away. If they're drilled better, they look cooler.
Thanks in advance!
General consensus is drilled brakes are not needed anymore. They also have an added tendency to crack and will wear out brake pads faster.
The stock rotors are very good on the cobalt, oem replacements would do fine. If you're dead set on 'cool' rotors or you track your car a lot, slotted only be what you want.
The stock rotors are very good on the cobalt, oem replacements would do fine. If you're dead set on 'cool' rotors or you track your car a lot, slotted only be what you want.
You are correct for everyday the oem replacement pads and rotors are just fine. Unfortunately from a dealer they are way over priced and your basic aftermarket pads like duralast and car quest pads may fit in the budget but they still tend to have disadvantages.
I personally like the slotted and drilled rotors. If you have a good set of drilled rotors they will last a long time. The hole help with heat dissipation and the slots I found really help not only to brake dust out from under the pads but also water in the rain which results in better stopping. I had a set of Baer's on a car for 3 years they were no problem they even were machined .020" still never had a problem. I really noticed no extra wear to the pads when I used them either. When you really think about it the rotor is still smooth just like without the Holes and slots so there should not be anything eating at the pads prematurely.
As for the pads I would use a good set of Hawk pads or EBC or just stick with the AcDelco pads wearever mid or higher pads and bendix usually are ok. I have seen too many times with these cars using Car quest, Duralast, Raybestos, Napa pads that they will often squeal a lot or create a grinding type sound after about 1000 or so miles. I cannot explain why it happens and I had a few nightmare vehicles that I had these issues with. Thought it was the rotors so they were machined or replaced and they would start the noise again usually after it heated up replaced the pads with better pads never happened again.
As far as rotors and/or pads on ebay I would not trust it unless you have a part number of a well known brand. My rule of thumb for anything safety related on my cars or any other car I work on is you should not be cheap for something that you are relying on to save your life. As with everything you tend to get what you pay for.
Other than R1 I believe CrateEngineDepot.com may have rotors for your car also. I would just call the dealer and have them check that part number for the vin of your car to be sure.
*Make sure that your wheels are properly torqued to 100 ft. Lbs. If they are over torqued (ex: Impact gun was used without a torque stick) it can cause your rotors to warp prematurely and in some cases immediately.
These are just my opinions hope it helps.
I personally like the slotted and drilled rotors. If you have a good set of drilled rotors they will last a long time. The hole help with heat dissipation and the slots I found really help not only to brake dust out from under the pads but also water in the rain which results in better stopping. I had a set of Baer's on a car for 3 years they were no problem they even were machined .020" still never had a problem. I really noticed no extra wear to the pads when I used them either. When you really think about it the rotor is still smooth just like without the Holes and slots so there should not be anything eating at the pads prematurely.
As for the pads I would use a good set of Hawk pads or EBC or just stick with the AcDelco pads wearever mid or higher pads and bendix usually are ok. I have seen too many times with these cars using Car quest, Duralast, Raybestos, Napa pads that they will often squeal a lot or create a grinding type sound after about 1000 or so miles. I cannot explain why it happens and I had a few nightmare vehicles that I had these issues with. Thought it was the rotors so they were machined or replaced and they would start the noise again usually after it heated up replaced the pads with better pads never happened again.
As far as rotors and/or pads on ebay I would not trust it unless you have a part number of a well known brand. My rule of thumb for anything safety related on my cars or any other car I work on is you should not be cheap for something that you are relying on to save your life. As with everything you tend to get what you pay for.
Other than R1 I believe CrateEngineDepot.com may have rotors for your car also. I would just call the dealer and have them check that part number for the vin of your car to be sure.
*Make sure that your wheels are properly torqued to 100 ft. Lbs. If they are over torqued (ex: Impact gun was used without a torque stick) it can cause your rotors to warp prematurely and in some cases immediately.
These are just my opinions hope it helps.
replaced stock ones with r1 slotted and have been very happy so far. They seem to shed water faster than non slotted. They do cool faster if you ride them more. If your going with stockers i would order from CED. You get what you pay for. By your description it sounds like yours are warped.
I'm having the same exact problem on my base. After looking into the 5 lug conversion I decided to just upgrade to the hawk performance pads and I'm getting slotted either stop tech or powerslot rotors.
lol only hard driving you might do is if you keep your foot on the brake the hole time driving. I have never had issue with cracking with drilled rotors.
If you want performance braking I would suggest not to use ceramic pads. I used them with slotted and drilled rotors once on my 02 Cavalier and had to stop hard one time from 50 to 0 really quick. I felt like the car was not going to stop due to serious pad gassing and when I came to a complete stop I could smell the pad material burning up. That was the last time I used ceramics with those rotors. I used hawk performance pads that used a carbon compound and I would stop on a dime no problem everytime. They did not put out a lot of dust or squeal either.
If you want performance braking I would suggest not to use ceramic pads. I used them with slotted and drilled rotors once on my 02 Cavalier and had to stop hard one time from 50 to 0 really quick. I felt like the car was not going to stop due to serious pad gassing and when I came to a complete stop I could smell the pad material burning up. That was the last time I used ceramics with those rotors. I used hawk performance pads that used a carbon compound and I would stop on a dime no problem everytime. They did not put out a lot of dust or squeal either.
lol only hard driving you might do is if you keep your foot on the brake the hole time driving. I have never had issue with cracking with drilled rotors.
If you want performance braking I would suggest not to use ceramic pads. I used them with slotted and drilled rotors once on my 02 Cavalier and had to stop hard one time from 50 to 0 really quick. I felt like the car was not going to stop due to serious pad gassing and when I came to a complete stop I could smell the pad material burning up. That was the last time I used ceramics with those rotors. I used hawk performance pads that used a carbon compound and I would stop on a dime no problem everytime. They did not put out a lot of dust or squeal either.
If you want performance braking I would suggest not to use ceramic pads. I used them with slotted and drilled rotors once on my 02 Cavalier and had to stop hard one time from 50 to 0 really quick. I felt like the car was not going to stop due to serious pad gassing and when I came to a complete stop I could smell the pad material burning up. That was the last time I used ceramics with those rotors. I used hawk performance pads that used a carbon compound and I would stop on a dime no problem everytime. They did not put out a lot of dust or squeal either.
I would look for the part number here for your vehicle application: Hawk Performance Brake Pads: Race Proven, Street Legal
Then look that part number up for your vehicle in a search for the best price. Would go with the HPS Pads. Summitracing.com may have them and Tirerack.com but there are others on the net that would carry them and may be cheaper. Try looking on Retailmenot.com for discount coupon codes too to help get free shipping and 10 or more percent off.
Then look that part number up for your vehicle in a search for the best price. Would go with the HPS Pads. Summitracing.com may have them and Tirerack.com but there are others on the net that would carry them and may be cheaper. Try looking on Retailmenot.com for discount coupon codes too to help get free shipping and 10 or more percent off.
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