someone explain to me bracket racing..
#1
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someone explain to me bracket racing..
i occasionally go to the races at my local track, but i've never done the bracket racing i just do a few runs and leave, so i have no idea how it works. i took off this sunday so i can go to the import wars or whatever its called they have here, and i want to do my best. i know mods dont matter, because i have a friend with a stock focus ST that won 75 bucks being 1st place.
also trying to figure out how to launch perfect...this track is old or something, and whenever the track hasnt been 'conditioned' as they explained to me, no matter how you try launching, you will spin out insanely or wheel hop, or i can start slow and run really bad times.
also trying to figure out how to launch perfect...this track is old or something, and whenever the track hasnt been 'conditioned' as they explained to me, no matter how you try launching, you will spin out insanely or wheel hop, or i can start slow and run really bad times.
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ok well.... bracket racing is easy...... you decide what time you will run. you write it on your window, thats called a dial-in.... EX. 15.00, then when you run your car you want your total "package" to be 15.00 or reallllllly close to it. your package consist of your 1/4 time plus your reaction time. EX. 14.65 1/4 + .30 RT = 14.95 as your "package". you dont want your "package" to be higher than your dial-in time or you breakout. whoever gets closest to their dial-in time without breaking out wins...... does that help any??
also they time the staging lights according to your dial-in times to where if you both hit your exact dial-in times you would finish at the exact same time.
also they time the staging lights according to your dial-in times to where if you both hit your exact dial-in times you would finish at the exact same time.
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lauch at lower RPMs like 1500-1700 then hammer it if there is no wheel hop. if there is wheel hop, after you start, let the hop stop, then hammer it again. You really have to practice it and figure out your own way combined with what the track conditions will allow.
#4
Originally Posted by nomoreavril
i occasionally go to the races at my local track, but i've never done the bracket racing i just do a few runs and leave, so i have no idea how it works. i took off this sunday so i can go to the import wars or whatever its called they have here, and i want to do my best. i know mods dont matter, because i have a friend with a stock focus ST that won 75 bucks being 1st place.
also trying to figure out how to launch perfect...this track is old or something, and whenever the track hasnt been 'conditioned' as they explained to me, no matter how you try launching, you will spin out insanely or wheel hop, or i can start slow and run really bad times.
also trying to figure out how to launch perfect...this track is old or something, and whenever the track hasnt been 'conditioned' as they explained to me, no matter how you try launching, you will spin out insanely or wheel hop, or i can start slow and run really bad times.
I have no clue what chipmonk is talking about, when he says, "package".
Basically, make a few passes see what your best run is. Make your dial-in .1 less than that the first time you compete and try to run that time every time. With the best reaction time possible. Reaction time does not effect your dial-in time or ET, EVER as chipmonk suggested.
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reaction time IS included in your total time..... i just did this on sunday..... ive done it several times before..........
and if you were to actually read that site you posted it says that the lights turn green on the tree so that the cars would end up at the finish dead even if they hit their dial-in times. aka if your light turns green and you sit there for 5 seconds and the other guy finishes without breaking out.... he wins. your time starts when the light turns green, not when you start moving.....
and if you were to actually read that site you posted it says that the lights turn green on the tree so that the cars would end up at the finish dead even if they hit their dial-in times. aka if your light turns green and you sit there for 5 seconds and the other guy finishes without breaking out.... he wins. your time starts when the light turns green, not when you start moving.....
#6
Originally Posted by chipmonk212121
reaction time IS included in your total time..... i just did this on sunday..... ive done it several times before..........
What if two cars have dial-in times have 14.0 and they both end up running 14.00000 who wins???? The car with the better reaction time.
You need to do it some more.
http://www.asmartin.com/b_et.htm
"You select a time that you think your car will run. That's called your dial-in. When two cars compete, they subtract the dial-ins, and the slower car gets that much of a head start. The theory is that if both drivers get identical reaction times, and both run what they predicted, they will meet right at the finish line... a tie. In practicality, this never happens. Reaction times will differ, and the car may run quicker or slower than predicted. "
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Originally Posted by superSS/SC
Ummmm... no duh, reaction time is included in your total time, but not part of your dial in time.
What if two cars have dial-in times have 14.0 and they both end up running 14.00000 who wins???? The car with the better reaction time.
You need to do it some more.
http://www.asmartin.com/b_et.htm
"You select a time that you think your car will run. That's called your dial-in. When two cars compete, they subtract the dial-ins, and the slower car gets that much of a head start. The theory is that if both drivers get identical reaction times, and both run what they predicted, they will meet right at the finish line... a tie. In practicality, this never happens. Reaction times will differ, and the car may run quicker or slower than predicted. "
What if two cars have dial-in times have 14.0 and they both end up running 14.00000 who wins???? The car with the better reaction time.
You need to do it some more.
http://www.asmartin.com/b_et.htm
"You select a time that you think your car will run. That's called your dial-in. When two cars compete, they subtract the dial-ins, and the slower car gets that much of a head start. The theory is that if both drivers get identical reaction times, and both run what they predicted, they will meet right at the finish line... a tie. In practicality, this never happens. Reaction times will differ, and the car may run quicker or slower than predicted. "
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Originally Posted by superSS/SC
Actually a better example...if reaction time is part of your dial-in time like you say it is then someone could just redlight and then stand on their brakes at the end.
Originally Posted by superSS/SC
Reaction times will differ, and the car may run quicker or slower than predicted
#10
Originally Posted by chipmonk212121
....the reaction time DOES count. When the lights turn green.... THATS when your time for your dial-in time starts. you need to cross the finish b4 the other guy without breaking out.
Light turns green and the time until you break the beams is your reaction time.
From the time you break the beams at the starting line to the the time you break the beams at the finish line is your ET(elapsed time) it has ZERO to do with reaction time. You mark off your dial-in time based off this.
A perfect bracket race is someone dialing in a 14.0, then cutting a .000 (or .400 or .500, whichever tree) and then running a 14.0. If this same person cuts a perfect light again but ends up running 13.99 then they brokeout. If they cut a horrible light like .5 or something and run a 13.99 they still brokeout.
Some race scenarios...
Car 1 dial-in is 14.0, Car 2 dial-in is 15.0 both cut perfect lights car 1 runs 14.3 and car 2 runs 15.2---- who wins???
Same dial-ins, car 1's RT is .25 car 2's RT is .1..... car 1 runs 14.0 and car 2 runs 14.9 ----who wins???
Same dial-ins, Car 1's RT is .34 Car 2's RT is .35.... car 1 runs 14.0 and car 2 runs 15.0---- who wins?
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sweet. i'm going to be so nervous about getting a false start. so if you lose one round, is that it? you gotta leave? and how do you know if you won that round or not(obviously theres not much time to look at the billboards b/c you're passing them..)
#12
Originally Posted by nomoreavril
sweet. i'm going to be so nervous about getting a false start. so if you lose one round, is that it? you gotta leave? and how do you know if you won that round or not(obviously theres not much time to look at the billboards b/c you're passing them..)
When you pick up your time slips it will tell you who won just like normal. Have you got your time slips before???
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Originally Posted by superSS/SC
OMG!!! Do you have any idea how a track works???
Light turns green and the time until you break the beams is your reaction time.
From the time you break the beams at the starting line to the the time you break the beams at the finish line is your ET(elapsed time) it has ZERO to do with reaction time. You mark off your dial-in time based off this.
A perfect bracket race is someone dialing in a 14.0, then cutting a .000 (or .400 or .500, whichever tree) and then running a 14.0. If this same person cuts a perfect light again but ends up running 13.99 then they brokeout. If they cut a horrible light like .5 or something and run a 13.99 they still brokeout.
Some race scenarios...
Car 1 dial-in is 14.0, Car 2 dial-in is 15.0 both cut perfect lights car 1 runs 14.3 and car 2 runs 15.2---- who wins???
Same dial-ins, car 1's RT is .25 car 2's RT is .1..... car 1 runs 14.0 and car 2 runs 14.9 ----who wins???
Same dial-ins, Car 1's RT is .34 Car 2's RT is .35.... car 1 runs 14.0 and car 2 runs 15.0---- who wins?
Light turns green and the time until you break the beams is your reaction time.
From the time you break the beams at the starting line to the the time you break the beams at the finish line is your ET(elapsed time) it has ZERO to do with reaction time. You mark off your dial-in time based off this.
A perfect bracket race is someone dialing in a 14.0, then cutting a .000 (or .400 or .500, whichever tree) and then running a 14.0. If this same person cuts a perfect light again but ends up running 13.99 then they brokeout. If they cut a horrible light like .5 or something and run a 13.99 they still brokeout.
Some race scenarios...
Car 1 dial-in is 14.0, Car 2 dial-in is 15.0 both cut perfect lights car 1 runs 14.3 and car 2 runs 15.2---- who wins???
Same dial-ins, car 1's RT is .25 car 2's RT is .1..... car 1 runs 14.0 and car 2 runs 14.9 ----who wins???
Same dial-ins, Car 1's RT is .34 Car 2's RT is .35.... car 1 runs 14.0 and car 2 runs 15.0---- who wins?
#14
chipmonk....i started drag racing in the 80's.....i had a 11 sec 67 camaro and graduated to a 8.70 sec 74 vega. I now have a 06 cobalt ss/sc running a best so far of 13.69 at 106. reaction time is the time that it takes to break the staging beam when the green light comes on. It has nothing to do with your E.T. ET is started after you break the staging beam...not before...Hope this is easier to digest....
Whit...
Whit...
#15
Originally Posted by 06ChargedSS
chipmonk....i started drag racing in the 80's.....i had a 11 sec 67 camaro and graduated to a 8.70 sec 74 vega. I now have a 06 cobalt ss/sc running a best so far of 13.69 at 106. reaction time is the time that it takes to break the staging beam when the green light comes on. It has nothing to do with your E.T. ET is started after you break the staging beam...not before...Hope this is easier to digest....
Whit...
Whit...
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Originally Posted by 06ChargedSS
chipmonk....i started drag racing in the 80's.....i had a 11 sec 67 camaro and graduated to a 8.70 sec 74 vega. I now have a 06 cobalt ss/sc running a best so far of 13.69 at 106. reaction time is the time that it takes to break the staging beam when the green light comes on. It has nothing to do with your E.T. ET is started after you break the staging beam...not before...Hope this is easier to digest....
Whit...
Whit...
so you are still wrong superSS/SC
#17
ok well.... bracket racing is easy...... you decide what time you will run. you write it on your window, thats called a dial-in.... EX. 15.00, then when you run your car you want your total "package" to be 15.00 or reallllllly close to it. your package consist of your 1/4 time plus your reaction time. EX. 14.65 1/4 + .30 RT = 14.95 as your "package". you dont want your "package" to be higher than your dial-in time or you breakout. whoever gets closest to their dial-in time without breaking out wins...... does that help any??
I think this is the instance of which you speak....again...reaction time has nothing to do with your ET....you can sit at the starting line with the light green for 5 sec or more and still run a 10 sec or 12 sec run.....has nothing to do with reaction time period.....go to the tower at your local track and ask....nuff said....
I think this is the instance of which you speak....again...reaction time has nothing to do with your ET....you can sit at the starting line with the light green for 5 sec or more and still run a 10 sec or 12 sec run.....has nothing to do with reaction time period.....go to the tower at your local track and ask....nuff said....
#18
if both racers nail their dial-in (what are the odds?? I suppose it happens...)
in such a scenario, then isn't it a matter of who had a better r/t??
(and what if their r/t's are the same???)
in such a scenario, then isn't it a matter of who had a better r/t??
(and what if their r/t's are the same???)
#19
Originally Posted by chipmonk212121
ok... i know that ET is the time you cross the start till you cross the finish...... go back and find one instance where i said that the ET included the reaction time..... next time read before your post. and that has nothing to do with this discussion. we are talking about bracket racing. In BRACKET racing when the light turns green.... your time starts THEN.
so you are still wrong superSS/SC
so you are still wrong superSS/SC
Show me proof and get one just one other person to agree with you. It will not happen, because YOU ARE WRONG!!
#20
Originally Posted by atwilson
if both racers nail their dial-in (what are the odds?? I suppose it happens...)
in such a scenario, then isn't it a matter of who had a better r/t??
(and what if their r/t's are the same???)
in such a scenario, then isn't it a matter of who had a better r/t??
(and what if their r/t's are the same???)
Thats why the clocks go out to 1/1000 of a sec.....those are extremly rare cases when that happens....
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Originally Posted by 06ChargedSS
ok well.... bracket racing is easy...... you decide what time you will run. you write it on your window, thats called a dial-in.... EX. 15.00, then when you run your car you want your total "package" to be 15.00 or reallllllly close to it. your package consist of your 1/4 time plus your reaction time. EX. 14.65 1/4 + .30 RT = 14.95 as your "package". you dont want your "package" to be higher than your dial-in time or you breakout. whoever gets closest to their dial-in time without breaking out wins...... does that help any??
I think this is the instance of which you speak....again...reaction time has nothing to do with your ET....you can sit at the starting line with the light green for 5 sec or more and still run a 10 sec or 12 sec run.....has nothing to do with reaction time period.....go to the tower at your local track and ask....nuff said....
I think this is the instance of which you speak....again...reaction time has nothing to do with your ET....you can sit at the starting line with the light green for 5 sec or more and still run a 10 sec or 12 sec run.....has nothing to do with reaction time period.....go to the tower at your local track and ask....nuff said....
you dial-in at 14.70
your ET was 14.60
your RT was .20
YOU BROKE OUT WITH A 14.80
#22
Originally Posted by chipmonk212121
once again... i never said the reaction time had anything to do with the ET..... the dial-in time is 1/4 time (ET) PLUS the reaction time.... omfg you must have let too much of the fuckng fumes from the race gas get to your ******* head. I was just at my local track on sunday and im not stupid..... EXAMPLE ONCE AGAIN....
you dial-in at 14.70
your ET was 14.60
your RT was .20
YOU BROKE OUT WITH A 14.80
you dial-in at 14.70
your ET was 14.60
your RT was .20
YOU BROKE OUT WITH A 14.80
How did that car break out if it ran slower than it's dial-in????? Someone has obviously sold you wolf tickets. Please provide proof and some people to back you up, otherwise you ARE INDEED stupid.
Also.....
#23
Originally Posted by chipmonk212121
once again... i never said the reaction time had anything to do with the ET..... the dial-in time is 1/4 time (ET) PLUS the reaction time.... omfg you must have let too much of the fuckng fumes from the race gas get to your ******* head. I was just at my local track on sunday and im not stupid..... EXAMPLE ONCE AGAIN....
you dial-in at 14.70
your ET was 14.60
your RT was .20
YOU BROKE OUT WITH A 14.80
you dial-in at 14.70
your ET was 14.60
your RT was .20
YOU BROKE OUT WITH A 14.80
I don't know what planet you are from but, you stated a 1/4 mile time PLUS reaction time has something to do with the ET, in your words....and yes...i have enjoyed the fumes over the years and i can still have 004 reaction times.......
you dial in at 14.70
you run a 14.60...you ran out by a tenth
your rt was .020
you dont add the .020 to your 14.60...it is the time that it took you to start the timer....
Peace Out...
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Originally Posted by 06ChargedSS
I don't know what planet you are from but, you stated a 1/4 mile time PLUS reaction time has something to do with the ET, in your words....and yes...i have enjoyed the fumes over the years and i can still have 004 reaction times.......
you dial in at 14.70
you run a 14.60...you ran out by a tenth
your rt was .020
you dont add the .020 to your 14.60...it is the time that it took you to start the timer....
Peace Out...
you dial in at 14.70
you run a 14.60...you ran out by a tenth
your rt was .020
you dont add the .020 to your 14.60...it is the time that it took you to start the timer....
Peace Out...
and superss/sc... you have never ever done a bracket race b4 so you really have no room to talk......
IF YOUR DIAL-IN TIME IS 14.7 YOU HAVE 14.7 SECONDS OR MORE TO GET TO THE END AFTER THE LIGHT TURNS GREEN. IF YOU GET THERE IN LESS THAN 14.7 SECONDS, YOU BREAK OUT!!!
#25
Originally Posted by chipmonk212121
once again i never said ET included RT.... i said ET + RT was your target for your dial-in....... and you are still a *******...... the light turns green.... THATS when your total time starts for your dial-in. If you have an ET of 14.4 and a RT of .2 your time for your bracket is 14.6 you broke out. ONLY in bracket racing does your RT count.... Its really a simple ******* concept that neither of you can seem to get through your head.
and superss/sc... you have never ever done a bracket race b4 so you really have no room to talk......
IF YOUR DIAL-IN TIME IS 14.7 YOU HAVE 14.7 SECONDS OR MORE TO GET TO THE END AFTER THE LIGHT TURNS GREEN. IF YOU GET THERE IN LESS THAN 14.7 SECONDS, YOU BREAK OUT!!!
and superss/sc... you have never ever done a bracket race b4 so you really have no room to talk......
IF YOUR DIAL-IN TIME IS 14.7 YOU HAVE 14.7 SECONDS OR MORE TO GET TO THE END AFTER THE LIGHT TURNS GREEN. IF YOU GET THERE IN LESS THAN 14.7 SECONDS, YOU BREAK OUT!!!
I see what the problem is now. You have the basic concept right about bracket racing, you just don't know the logistics very well. No matter what you say or think, you choose your dial-in based on your ET (beam to beam) and of course with bracket racing or any drag racing for that matter you want to cut a perfect light.
What YOU are saying is that if someone has 14.0 dial-in and their RT is .2 and their ET is 13.8 then they are ok, cause their "total package" is 14.0. That is completely WRONG! Your dial-in is based on your ET. If you have a 14.0 dial and your ET is faster than 14.0 then you broke out NO matter what your RT is.
I really hope you end this now, otherwise you will lose all credibility on this site, sort of like CodySS.