supercharger question..
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Joined: 09-20-16
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From: PA
supercharger question..
two questions....first, the butterfly on the the bottom of the blower that opens and closes for the boost bypass valve was stuck shut...what mechanisms allow this thing to open and to close? because i need to replace it so my blower works again
second, i know there is a thread on this but i cannot find it so can someone please give me precise instructions with a list of tools needed to remove my supercharger? or just give me a link to the thread?
second, i know there is a thread on this but i cannot find it so can someone please give me precise instructions with a list of tools needed to remove my supercharger? or just give me a link to the thread?
Your bypass actuator valve which the black diaphragm actuator on the side of your blower is what opens and closes the valve. What is the condition of that part? Have you tested it with air?
The hose that comes out of the bypass actuator valve and routes to the supercharger is a vacuum signal line. When you have vacuum in between your rotors and throttle body it will cause the actuator to open the bypass valve. If you have LSJ car (this nipple doesn't go to anything on L61 setup) the second I think bottom nipple goes to the bypass solenoid which allows your ECU to pull boost if it thinks it needs too.
If your valve was stuck it could be your actuator or you may need to clean the butterfly port itself. I know when I was messing with my original M62 I messed with the limiter bolt on the actuator and it can actually be adjusted to where the butterfly valve closes too far and can get jammed. I doubt this is what happened to you but it is a possibility I suppose.
List of tools to remove your supercharger is just something to compress your belt tensioner so you can pull the belt off. I use a ratchet strap. A socket to remove your fuel rail. Pliers to remove hose clamps. And the right size Allen wrench for your SC bolts. All pretty basic tools IMO and removing the supercharger is fairly easy. It's one of those things where you only have to take off the stuff that is clearly in the way.
The hose that comes out of the bypass actuator valve and routes to the supercharger is a vacuum signal line. When you have vacuum in between your rotors and throttle body it will cause the actuator to open the bypass valve. If you have LSJ car (this nipple doesn't go to anything on L61 setup) the second I think bottom nipple goes to the bypass solenoid which allows your ECU to pull boost if it thinks it needs too.
If your valve was stuck it could be your actuator or you may need to clean the butterfly port itself. I know when I was messing with my original M62 I messed with the limiter bolt on the actuator and it can actually be adjusted to where the butterfly valve closes too far and can get jammed. I doubt this is what happened to you but it is a possibility I suppose.
List of tools to remove your supercharger is just something to compress your belt tensioner so you can pull the belt off. I use a ratchet strap. A socket to remove your fuel rail. Pliers to remove hose clamps. And the right size Allen wrench for your SC bolts. All pretty basic tools IMO and removing the supercharger is fairly easy. It's one of those things where you only have to take off the stuff that is clearly in the way.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 09-20-16
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: PA
Your bypass actuator valve which the black diaphragm actuator on the side of your blower is what opens and closes the valve. What is the condition of that part? Have you tested it with air?
The hose that comes out of the bypass actuator valve and routes to the supercharger is a vacuum signal line. When you have vacuum in between your rotors and throttle body it will cause the actuator to open the bypass valve. If you have LSJ car (this nipple doesn't go to anything on L61 setup) the second I think bottom nipple goes to the bypass solenoid which allows your ECU to pull boost if it thinks it needs too.
If your valve was stuck it could be your actuator or you may need to clean the butterfly port itself. I know when I was messing with my original M62 I messed with the limiter bolt on the actuator and it can actually be adjusted to where the butterfly valve closes too far and can get jammed. I doubt this is what happened to you but it is a possibility I suppose.
List of tools to remove your supercharger is just something to compress your belt tensioner so you can pull the belt off. I use a ratchet strap. A socket to remove your fuel rail. Pliers to remove hose clamps. And the right size Allen wrench for your SC bolts. All pretty basic tools IMO and removing the supercharger is fairly easy. It's one of those things where you only have to take off the stuff that is clearly in the way.
The hose that comes out of the bypass actuator valve and routes to the supercharger is a vacuum signal line. When you have vacuum in between your rotors and throttle body it will cause the actuator to open the bypass valve. If you have LSJ car (this nipple doesn't go to anything on L61 setup) the second I think bottom nipple goes to the bypass solenoid which allows your ECU to pull boost if it thinks it needs too.
If your valve was stuck it could be your actuator or you may need to clean the butterfly port itself. I know when I was messing with my original M62 I messed with the limiter bolt on the actuator and it can actually be adjusted to where the butterfly valve closes too far and can get jammed. I doubt this is what happened to you but it is a possibility I suppose.
List of tools to remove your supercharger is just something to compress your belt tensioner so you can pull the belt off. I use a ratchet strap. A socket to remove your fuel rail. Pliers to remove hose clamps. And the right size Allen wrench for your SC bolts. All pretty basic tools IMO and removing the supercharger is fairly easy. It's one of those things where you only have to take off the stuff that is clearly in the way.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 09-20-16
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: PA
Your bypass actuator valve which the black diaphragm actuator on the side of your blower is what opens and closes the valve. What is the condition of that part? Have you tested it with air?
The hose that comes out of the bypass actuator valve and routes to the supercharger is a vacuum signal line. When you have vacuum in between your rotors and throttle body it will cause the actuator to open the bypass valve. If you have LSJ car (this nipple doesn't go to anything on L61 setup) the second I think bottom nipple goes to the bypass solenoid which allows your ECU to pull boost if it thinks it needs too.
If your valve was stuck it could be your actuator or you may need to clean the butterfly port itself. I know when I was messing with my original M62 I messed with the limiter bolt on the actuator and it can actually be adjusted to where the butterfly valve closes too far and can get jammed. I doubt this is what happened to you but it is a possibility I suppose.
List of tools to remove your supercharger is just something to compress your belt tensioner so you can pull the belt off. I use a ratchet strap. A socket to remove your fuel rail. Pliers to remove hose clamps. And the right size Allen wrench for your SC bolts. All pretty basic tools IMO and removing the supercharger is fairly easy. It's one of those things where you only have to take off the stuff that is clearly in the way.
The hose that comes out of the bypass actuator valve and routes to the supercharger is a vacuum signal line. When you have vacuum in between your rotors and throttle body it will cause the actuator to open the bypass valve. If you have LSJ car (this nipple doesn't go to anything on L61 setup) the second I think bottom nipple goes to the bypass solenoid which allows your ECU to pull boost if it thinks it needs too.
If your valve was stuck it could be your actuator or you may need to clean the butterfly port itself. I know when I was messing with my original M62 I messed with the limiter bolt on the actuator and it can actually be adjusted to where the butterfly valve closes too far and can get jammed. I doubt this is what happened to you but it is a possibility I suppose.
List of tools to remove your supercharger is just something to compress your belt tensioner so you can pull the belt off. I use a ratchet strap. A socket to remove your fuel rail. Pliers to remove hose clamps. And the right size Allen wrench for your SC bolts. All pretty basic tools IMO and removing the supercharger is fairly easy. It's one of those things where you only have to take off the stuff that is clearly in the way.
I have never actually tested on. People say to vacuum test them but vacuum is just pressure that is less than atmospheric pressure so putting pressure on the opposite side of the diaphragm would yield the same pressure differential.
Basically you just have to fashion a way to put air pressure to it (no more than around 10 psi or you may damage it, idk) and make sure the internal diaphragm isn't leaking and that it is actuating like it should. I think each nipple is on opposite sides of the diaphragm so I would put pressure to the bottom nipple, the nipple that goes to the solenoid. This will simulate the same differential pressure as putting 10 psi vacuum to the top nipple.
Basically you just have to fashion a way to put air pressure to it (no more than around 10 psi or you may damage it, idk) and make sure the internal diaphragm isn't leaking and that it is actuating like it should. I think each nipple is on opposite sides of the diaphragm so I would put pressure to the bottom nipple, the nipple that goes to the solenoid. This will simulate the same differential pressure as putting 10 psi vacuum to the top nipple.
If your valve is stuck closed it could definitely make your car run shitty. I wouldn't run it like that. With the valve stuck closed your supercharger is trying to suck air through a closed throttle body and I assume would throw your manifold pressure off of where it should be.
Thread Starter
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Joined: 09-20-16
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From: PA
I have never actually tested on. People say to vacuum test them but vacuum is just pressure that is less than atmospheric pressure so putting pressure on the opposite side of the diaphragm would yield the same pressure differential.
Basically you just have to fashion a way to put air pressure to it (no more than around 10 psi or you may damage it, idk) and make sure the internal diaphragm isn't leaking and that it is actuating like it should. I think each nipple is on opposite sides of the diaphragm so I would put pressure to the bottom nipple, the nipple that goes to the solenoid. This will simulate the same differential pressure as putting 10 psi vacuum to the top nipple.
Basically you just have to fashion a way to put air pressure to it (no more than around 10 psi or you may damage it, idk) and make sure the internal diaphragm isn't leaking and that it is actuating like it should. I think each nipple is on opposite sides of the diaphragm so I would put pressure to the bottom nipple, the nipple that goes to the solenoid. This will simulate the same differential pressure as putting 10 psi vacuum to the top nipple.
Your boost gauge measures vacuum in inches of mercury not psi. 20 in-Hg is close to -10 psi gauge.
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From: PA
well my brother was able to force the butterfly open so it really helped solve the problem of the car not running correctly...but its def still messed up because when the car is cold, it still runs a little rough.
Like it's missing or what? Could be a number of things related or not related to the bypass. Hard to say for sure.
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From: PA
no its there....but we have to completly force it open....when my car started misfiring really badly, he went through and check every little damn thing he could that could potentially cause it to misfire....and when he came to my blower, he realized the wastegate (BPV but we call it wastegate) was not opening and closing and that it was jammed shut.....so he unjammed it by applying a large amount of pressure to it and we got it unstuck. then my car ran just fine after that except when it was cold...so something was making my damn butterfly not open and close.
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the car only misfires when its cold....but it does occasionally happen to me on the highway...its really weird. ill accelerate up to like 80 mph and then the car will like shake like it does when it misfires and it wont let me accelerate anymore.
That would be enough for me to park it until I figure out whats wrong. You throwing any codes?